UKC

Restricted Access

Wilton 3 is owned by Bolton Gun Club with agreed times for shooting and climbing - live firing takes place and it is vital that climbers understand and follow the agreed access arrangements. A new approach has recently been agreed – please see the ‘access’ section below for details as the old approach through the front gate is no longer possible.

Climbers have priority on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. Shooters have priority on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays and if shooting, red flags will be flying around the top of the quarry as well as on the approach.

On shooting days when the red warning flags are not in place, climbers can access the quarries, but if shooters arrive later, please pack up and leave as soon as safely possible. Please try to avoid the temptation of assuming that the ranges are not being used until at least mid-afternoon. On days when climbers have priority, the shooters can use the sites if climbers are not present when they arrive. However, if climbers arrive shooting must stop. If shooting is taking place on a climbing day, enter the quarry using the route detailed in the ‘access’ section below and approach the shooters hut along the newly landscaped path (which takes you safely behind the line of fire). Politely ask the shooters to stop and allow them a reasonable amount of time to clear up.

Climbers have an additional day in Wilton 3 on Mondays compared to Wilton 2 & 4. If the neighbouring gun club are using Wilton 2 but Wilton 3 is not being used, climbers can still use Wilton 3, provided that they do not climb the routes on Orange Wall (i.e. routes between Twin Cracks and Orange Corner inclusive). On these days, climbers must not pass the fence on the ridge between Wilton 2 and 3 or descend past it.

6m.

Rockfax Description
The technical left arete of the wall needs a spotter and a touch of wizadry. Misplaced in the earlier edition. © Rockfax

FA. Al? 1984.

Feedback

User Date Notes
M_Robinson 7 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: This is basically “climb sneck as badly as possible”
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is basically “climb sneck as badly as possible”
George Ormerod 31 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A quick search on ukclimbing suggests that the descent is described in the wrong place in the BMC lancs guide, and hence this route is drawn on the wrong arete in the Rockfax guide. I have yet to go back and see if this makes sense, but it sounds about right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A quick search on ukclimbing suggests that the descent is described in the wrong place in the BMC lancs guide, and hence this route is drawn on the wrong arete in the Rockfax guide. I have yet to go back and see if this makes sense, but it sounds about right.
George Ormerod 17 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: E1 5c? You have to be joking - and I'm a 'VS on a good day' punter. HS 4b more like, unless it's mega reach dependent. It even has reasonable gear in the breaks if you want to lead it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: E1 5c? You have to be joking - and I'm a 'VS on a good day' punter. HS 4b more like, unless it's mega reach dependent. It even has reasonable gear in the breaks if you want to lead it.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Wilton 3

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 20
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cameo

Grade: E1 5a ***
(Wilton 1)

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