90m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant route, and a good tick for any VS leader. Start as for Unicorn on the left-hand side of the crag.
1) 4b, 15m. Unicorn P1.
2) 4c, 24m. Move right onto a black slab, continue diagonally right to an overlap/break. Keep going up and right to the large fissure of Overhanging Chimney (VS) and climb this past a chockstone until a swing right on the wall leads to a stance.
3) 4a, 26m. Climb the slab on the right, pass a short chimney, and continue on to Crackstone Rib.
4) 4a, 18m. Step right from the stance and climb up to a tree, then follow a large flake. © Rockfax

Ticklists

"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Pixie-Andy 23 Sep Show βeta
βeta: The large wobbly spike of rock, (at the mid point where 3 routes cross), has either fallen or been removed. I hope no one was hurt. Technically this makes the route slightly harder, although i avoided using it last time, anyway. I did pitch 1 and 2, VS 5a, with ground fall potential on first pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The large wobbly spike of rock, (at the mid point where 3 routes cross), has either fallen or been removed. I hope no one was hurt. Technically this makes the route slightly harder, although i avoided using it last time, anyway. I did pitch 1 and 2, VS 5a, with ground fall potential on first pitch.
moberg 9 Jul Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is bold, with ground fall potential. Not sure why this isn't indicated in the guide book.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is bold, with ground fall potential. Not sure why this isn't indicated in the guide book.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
isandyharper 21 Sep AltLd O/S
Pixie-Andy 21 Sep AltLd O/S
James Oswald 8 Sep AltLd O/S
with R Brown
with R Brown
Hidden 8 Sep AltLd O/S
Manc88 25 Aug AltLd O/S VS!?? Methinks not. Linked P1+2 both of which felt all a bit bold and worrying until finally getting some good runners just before the baffling, awkward and hard move past the chockstone. P3+4 were very pleasant in a great position, but this is low end HVS all day long in my book.
with Monika
VS!?? Methinks not. Linked P1+2 both of which felt all a bit bold and worrying until finally getting some good runners just before the baffling, awkward and hard move past the chockstone. P3+4 were very pleasant in a great position, but this is low end HVS all day long in my book.
with Monika
eb202 25 Aug 2nd O/S
with Mike505
with Mike505
Hidden 25 Aug AltLd O/S
Mike505 25 Aug Lead O/S Linked P1 & 2 then abbed off the belay block to avoid queuing for the final pitches. Good ol' traditional feeling VS with a nearly gearless first pitch and some memorable moves on the second.
with eb202
Linked P1 & 2 then abbed off the belay block to avoid queuing for the final pitches. Good ol' traditional feeling VS with a nearly gearless first pitch and some memorable moves on the second.
with eb202
Slarti B 24 Aug AltLd dnf I led P1. Hardly any gear, effectively a solo. Juan led P2, again vey poor gear but couldn't get over chockstone. I had a go and failed as well, was getting late so we abbed off. :-(
with Juan S
I led P1. Hardly any gear, effectively a solo. Juan led P2, again vey poor gear but couldn't get over chockstone. I had a go and failed as well, was getting late so we abbed off. :-(
with Juan S
Hidden 24 Aug Lead
jules1990 24 Aug AltLd O/S Lucy led P1, I led P2, P3 and P4
with Lucy Pangbourne
Lucy led P1, I led P2, P3 and P4
with Lucy Pangbourne
LucyP 24 Aug AltLd
Amy121 26 Jul Lead All pitches
All pitches
Hidden 15 Jul AltLd
moberg 8 Jul AltLd dog Great route. Adam lead the first pitch, which is bold, with ground fall potential. I spent a long time on pitch 2, going back and forth, up and down, placing lots of gear and trying to work out whether to go up (5b pitch of Overlapping Wall), or around the corner and left or right (least likely looking, but actually the correct way) around a block. Had a rest then committed to right of the block and the holds appeared as if by magic.
with Adam
Great route. Adam lead the first pitch, which is bold, with ground fall potential. I spent a long time on pitch 2, going back and forth, up and down, placing lots of gear and trying to work out whether to go up (5b pitch of Overlapping Wall), or around the corner and left or right (least likely looking, but actually the correct way) around a block. Had a rest then committed to right of the block and the holds appeared as if by magic.
with Adam
ilch 1 Jul 2nd β
MartinJWood 28 Jun AltLd O/S I led pitch 1 (after Bruce bailed), the awesome pitch 2 and pitch 4. Bruce led pitch 3. Last climb of our visit. Fab weather and amazing routes.
I led pitch 1 (after Bruce bailed), the awesome pitch 2 and pitch 4. Bruce led pitch 3. Last climb of our visit. Fab weather and amazing routes.
Bruce Mcknight 28 Jun 2nd dog
Maia 23 Jun AltLd O/S
with NinaR
with NinaR
NinaR 23 Jun AltLd O/S Took a while to work out the crux after considering abbing out
with Maia
Took a while to work out the crux after considering abbing out
with Maia
Hidden 9 Jun AltLd O/S
Barrie Schofield II 18 May AltLd O/S I'm only writing in the box in the hope thar this will get feaured on best_of_ukc.
I'm only writing in the box in the hope thar this will get feaured on best_of_ukc.
smoreda 18 May AltLd Led P.3
Led P.3
tom_lewis89 18 May AltLd I led pitch 1, climbing was fun but there's a good run-out section mid-height with no gear! Barrie did a good job of pitch 2 which was very good value at VS !
I led pitch 1, climbing was fun but there's a good run-out section mid-height with no gear! Barrie did a good job of pitch 2 which was very good value at VS !
Hidden 7 May AltLd O/S
sparkybatteryboy 7 May AltLd couldnt work out the block and got shut down so jumped on overlapping wall to bypass. much nicer.
couldnt work out the block and got shut down so jumped on overlapping wall to bypass. much nicer.
Mihkel 6 May AltLd O/S Me P1 & 2, Jenny P3 & 4. Good route, high in the grade - getting over the chockstone isn’t piss.
Me P1 & 2, Jenny P3 & 4. Good route, high in the grade - getting over the chockstone isn’t piss.
Hidden 6 May AltLd
Paul Hy 5 May AltLd dnf it'll be there for another day!
it'll be there for another day!
Private Flounder 5 May AltLd dnf Got shut down by the chockstone because i forgot to bridge...always bridge! Down-climbed the black slab and abb'd off the tree. High in the grade!
with Paul Hyland
Got shut down by the chockstone because i forgot to bridge...always bridge! Down-climbed the black slab and abb'd off the tree. High in the grade!
with Paul Hyland
Hidden 5 May AltLd O/S
neilmackie 5 May AltLd O/S
with Ali graves
with Ali graves
Lewis Perrin Williams 23 Apr AltLd O/S Nice evening route.
with Dan Hale
Nice evening route.
with Dan Hale
Hidden 22 Apr AltLd
sam.gillan 17 Apr Lead O/S Awesome climb for the last day of the trip. Led all pitches. P1 & 2 provided sustained interest! Crux - P2 move underneath large boulder, felt great!
Awesome climb for the last day of the trip. Led all pitches. P1 & 2 provided sustained interest! Crux - P2 move underneath large boulder, felt great!
Eddie.Finch 14 Apr 2nd
AndyPandy55 31 Mar Lead
jaaccckk 30 Mar AltLd dog First trad lead P1 and P3. Slipped and ended up of the rope at the crux on P2. Just bridge!
First trad lead P1 and P3. Slipped and ended up of the rope at the crux on P2. Just bridge!
GeorgeNunn 30 Mar Lead O/S
with Mary dougherty
with Mary dougherty
John Bunney 28 Mar Lead
featuresforfeet 25 Feb AltLd O/S
with Jon
with Jon
philmcf ?Feb AltLd
Rock Star ?? Lead
Hidden 10 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
RCrockford 29 Sep, 2018 2nd
with Mike B
with Mike B
paul horabin 25 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 25 Sep, 2018 AltLd
*superchilled 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P2 into the start of P3 (made more sense to belay in the small chimney round from Crackstone Rib). P2 felt high in the grade for VS; closer to HVS 5a in my opinion.
with Ed Stones
Lead P2 into the start of P3 (made more sense to belay in the small chimney round from Crackstone Rib). P2 felt high in the grade for VS; closer to HVS 5a in my opinion.
with Ed Stones
RBonney 5 Jul, 2018 2nd
pftom 5 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
useful 26 Jun, 2018 AltLd G/U Tuesday evening in the Pass. Prefect conditions: sun and enough breeze to keep the midges at bay! 2h 15m. I led the crux pitch: Marty ran the final two together.
with Marty W MTA
Tuesday evening in the Pass. Prefect conditions: sun and enough breeze to keep the midges at bay! 2h 15m. I led the crux pitch: Marty ran the final two together.
with Marty W MTA
Cotopaxii 11 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Zack
with Zack
Hidden 11 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd
Callum Smith 10 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
keitht 31 May, 2018 AltLd
with Dave Lomas
with Dave Lomas
Benstar 20 Apr, 2018 2nd dog Hard crux move
Hard crux move
TCarrick 20 Apr, 2018 Lead
Laura Pruul 18 Apr, 2018 AltLd
with Carlos Barranco, Sol Armer
with Carlos Barranco, Sol Armer
chriswood ??, 2018 -
Davy Gunn ??, 2018 -
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Hidden 2 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf
merlin138 2 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
Sam Curley 1 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
with jcurley
with jcurley
jcurley 1 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Sam lead 4c pitch
Sam lead 4c pitch
chris wyatt 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S stiff crux for vs
stiff crux for vs
Giles Davis 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd Had two rests on the move up and right passed the chockstone. Led first pitch, seconded second pitch and then led pitches 3 & 4 together as I got a bit lost.
Had two rests on the move up and right passed the chockstone. Led first pitch, seconded second pitch and then led pitches 3 & 4 together as I got a bit lost.
MD 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Done in 3 pitches though I would not recommend this approach. Led P1, and P3
Done in 3 pitches though I would not recommend this approach. Led P1, and P3
Happy Wanderer 26 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with MD
with MD
Hidden 24 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 16 Jul, 2017 AltLd rpt
Puma 9 Jul, 2017 AltLd Rob P1, Mike P2, Me P3+4. Chimney is difficult but all the holds are there.
with Mike Shaw, lithos
Rob P1, Mike P2, Me P3+4. Chimney is difficult but all the holds are there.
with Mike Shaw, lithos
petegruf 8 Jul, 2017 2nd Backed off from the crux. Wasn't as hard and unprotected as it looked. Abbed off after second pitch
Backed off from the crux. Wasn't as hard and unprotected as it looked. Abbed off after second pitch
lithos 8 Jul, 2017 AltLd P1 which is bold but easy. Mike brilliant P2 - what fun but tricky and Paul took us to the top in one long pitch
with Puma, Mike Shaw
P1 which is bold but easy. Mike brilliant P2 - what fun but tricky and Paul took us to the top in one long pitch
with Puma, Mike Shaw
Hidden 8 Jul, 2017 Lead
Dannyme8131 28 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
MikePycroft 22 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Nathan
with Nathan
Hidden 28 May, 2017 Lead
rashwell 14 May, 2017 AltLd
Hannes B 14 May, 2017 Solo O/S
webby2203 9 May, 2017 Lead O/S Not much gear for this climb, particularly as it has a long traverse making he Pro for he second quite minimal. The crux was on the second pitch in the big chimney. Not much Pro here either!
Not much gear for this climb, particularly as it has a long traverse making he Pro for he second quite minimal. The crux was on the second pitch in the big chimney. Not much Pro here either!
Hidden 7 May, 2017 2nd
will_benfold 7 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with James Masters, Patrik Caspar
with James Masters, Patrik Caspar
JackM92 4 May, 2017 AltLd O/S In 40 mph winds...thought I was climbing like a muppet then read the comments below. Pretty run out at times for a VS, some blind moves in the chimmney but the difficult bits are well protected.
In 40 mph winds...thought I was climbing like a muppet then read the comments below. Pretty run out at times for a VS, some blind moves in the chimmney but the difficult bits are well protected.
jh1990 4 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
steven_daniels99 2 May, 2017 -
justdoit 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd very happy I did not get that second pitch, weird pull though the chimney thing, not nice!!
very happy I did not get that second pitch, weird pull though the chimney thing, not nice!!
peter.ravenscroft27 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with Seamus
with Seamus
TwofoZeus 26 Mar, 2017 2nd Super windy, far harder than the grade suggests.
Super windy, far harder than the grade suggests.
ripper 25 Mar, 2017 AltLd An adventure! Very strong wind, route finding problems and lack of gear on our chosen line put Ross and Simon off so I led all the way to the junction with Crackstone Rib - Ross finished up the last pitch of this. Sequence to and past the big chockstone certainly felt interesting at the grade.
An adventure! Very strong wind, route finding problems and lack of gear on our chosen line put Ross and Simon off so I led all the way to the junction with Crackstone Rib - Ross finished up the last pitch of this. Sequence to and past the big chockstone certainly felt interesting at the grade.
James corfe 20 Nov, 2016 -
fweatherall1 30 Oct, 2016 AltLd
Chubbs 9 Oct, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 9 Oct, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 9 Oct, 2016 2nd
Hidden 9 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
stratandrew 8 Oct, 2016 AltLd dnf A hanging flake/block on the overhanging chocktone part of overhanging chimney v loose and about to break off so I tried the alternatives vi the left groove then the E1 5c over the overlapping wall crux but failed on both of these! downclimbed the 4c slab pitch with assistance from an in situ nut on which i left a Karabiner. Abbed off from the Holly tree at the belay at the top of P1. I'll cem back to this one but please beware the block under the chockstone.
with Geri Mihalkova, Jim Symon
A hanging flake/block on the overhanging chocktone part of overhanging chimney v loose and about to break off so I tried the alternatives vi the left groove then the E1 5c over the overlapping wall crux but failed on both of these! downclimbed the 4c slab pitch with assistance from an in situ nut on which i left a Karabiner. Abbed off from the Holly tree at the belay at the top of P1. I'll cem back to this one but please beware the block under the chockstone.
with Geri Mihalkova, Jim Symon
jandyd05 21 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S 1st pitch run out low down. 2nd pitch, poorly protected traverse before the epic (but protectable) moves across into overhanging chimney below the chockstone then up over it before the traverse right ad easier ground. HVS 5a for the chimney moves and the poor protection.
with Jason Greaves
1st pitch run out low down. 2nd pitch, poorly protected traverse before the epic (but protectable) moves across into overhanging chimney below the chockstone then up over it before the traverse right ad easier ground. HVS 5a for the chimney moves and the poor protection.
with Jason Greaves
Woodmouse 18 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Beautiful climb, esp last pitch, however could have done with taking more slings. Quite a few wobbly rocks, and very hard move at the overhang/chimney! Did Pitches 1 & 4
Beautiful climb, esp last pitch, however could have done with taking more slings. Quite a few wobbly rocks, and very hard move at the overhang/chimney! Did Pitches 1 & 4
Hidden 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Pinguville 7 Sep, 2016 AltLd led p1 , and 3 . start was pretty bold and run out on weird rock / delicate climbing but not too hard . Nice traverse , but then the chimney move is pretty bloody awfull , sandbag at VS ! is doable but after a lot of huffing and chuffing , and obviously theres the majorly loose rock to avoid !
led p1 , and 3 . start was pretty bold and run out on weird rock / delicate climbing but not too hard . Nice traverse , but then the chimney move is pretty bloody awfull , sandbag at VS ! is doable but after a lot of huffing and chuffing , and obviously theres the majorly loose rock to avoid !
George_Surf 7 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S bold but easy start, traverse on p2 nice but the overhanging chimney was a nightmare. pretty safe but difficult; took a while...
bold but easy start, traverse on p2 nice but the overhanging chimney was a nightmare. pretty safe but difficult; took a while...
Prof. Outdoors 7 Sep, 2016 AltLd
with Wendy
with Wendy
No? Yes! 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd Agree with others - surely a 5a move around the block ? .Large loose rock wedged on right under it too that wobbles alarmingly !
with Bern
Agree with others - surely a 5a move around the block ? .Large loose rock wedged on right under it too that wobbles alarmingly !
with Bern
Hidden 22 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Benjaminblanc 11 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S Solid VS but that move across the large fissure/gap is verging on 5A if you avoid feet on the big loose block which looks like it will go any time now. It looks like the block has been used to place gear in the past but there is still plenty of choice around the chimney.
with Seema
Solid VS but that move across the large fissure/gap is verging on 5A if you avoid feet on the big loose block which looks like it will go any time now. It looks like the block has been used to place gear in the past but there is still plenty of choice around the chimney.
with Seema
Seema 11 Jun, 2016 2nd
Hidden 10 Jun, 2016 AltLd
jezb1 30 May, 2016 Lead Makes it harder when your client doesn't seem to like giving slack...
Makes it harder when your client doesn't seem to like giving slack...
bentawney7 30 May, 2016 AltLd
davidibex 30 May, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 24 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
Tim Sparrow 15 May, 2016 - Done after attempting Unicorn! Dangerous loose block at junction with Overlapping Wall.
with Piers Nesbitt
Done after attempting Unicorn! Dangerous loose block at junction with Overlapping Wall.
with Piers Nesbitt
Pete_Frost 14 May, 2016 AltLd rpt
with Blake
with Blake
Hidden 14 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Apr, 2016 AltLd
WillDoyle 21 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Mar, 2016 AltLd
Heather Osborne 18 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Climbed in 3 pitches, led pitches 2 and 3 - amazing route!
Climbed in 3 pitches, led pitches 2 and 3 - amazing route!
dobby 200 14 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S I climbed P2 and P3. Amazing route with loads of Columnar jointing
with Kendal
I climbed P2 and P3. Amazing route with loads of Columnar jointing
with Kendal
Allanfairfechan ??, 2016 AltLd
with Simon Leigh Smith
with Simon Leigh Smith
Hidden 28 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
JessWilliams 19 Oct, 2015 AltLd
with Dad
with Dad
DannyH001 14 Oct, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 4 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Bryan M 10 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S P1 & 3. Pero lead 2 & 4. The bold move across Overhanging chimney on p2 is possibly 5a.
with Pero
P1 & 3. Pero lead 2 & 4. The bold move across Overhanging chimney on p2 is possibly 5a.
with Pero
Pero 10 Sep, 2015 AltLd
Steveb27 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd A proper Wastad VS - if you know what I mean...!
A proper Wastad VS - if you know what I mean...!
Hidden 27 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
martin c 25 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Felt tough and dodgy on first pitch due to lack of protection.
with Dave Thomas
Felt tough and dodgy on first pitch due to lack of protection.
with Dave Thomas
DanDevey94 16 Jul, 2015 2nd dog Lion was a good scare, there was loose rock under the chimney, and the overhang was unexpected. Took a fall on the crux.
Lion was a good scare, there was loose rock under the chimney, and the overhang was unexpected. Took a fall on the crux.
Mr Tickle 16 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Dan2
with Dan2
Marcin78 ?Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Tomek
with Tomek
rushy11111918 29 Jun, 2015 Lead
with Ron Rees Davies
with Ron Rees Davies
Ron Rees Davies 29 Jun, 2015 2nd
with Matt
with Matt
shaunhumphreys 19 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S In grim weather strung last 2 pitches together so we could get off it quicker
In grim weather strung last 2 pitches together so we could get off it quicker
benkelsey 19 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S got 'the fear'. very cold, one runner on my rope forgot how to climb, so cold.
got 'the fear'. very cold, one runner on my rope forgot how to climb, so cold.
noemie5438 6 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Liam
with Liam
Hidden 4 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
PatrickEnglish 4 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
Andrew Lester 21 May, 2015 AltLd
jalqazzaz 13 May, 2015 Lead dnf After getting past the chock stone we had to bail to get to work on time :(. Thats a hard pitch for a VS, could have possibly been the damp but still!
After getting past the chock stone we had to bail to get to work on time :(. Thats a hard pitch for a VS, could have possibly been the damp but still!
static266 13 May, 2015 2nd dnf
Lucylou19 23 Apr, 2015 AltLd dnf felt ill so bailed after first pitch
with Jeannie Sherwood
felt ill so bailed after first pitch
with Jeannie Sherwood
Hidden 15 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 5 Apr, 2015 2nd dnf
Andy Worster 3 Apr, 2015 Lead
Hidden ??, 2015 AltLd
Pero 22 Sep, 2014 AltLd
GermanAlex 14 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead pitches 1+2 in one, nice traverse and quite gymnastic moves to pass the big jammed block. Definitely felt like 5a to me, probably not enhanced by considerable ropedrag. Don't really see how I could've avoided that though.
Lead pitches 1+2 in one, nice traverse and quite gymnastic moves to pass the big jammed block. Definitely felt like 5a to me, probably not enhanced by considerable ropedrag. Don't really see how I could've avoided that though.
charvey 7 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S I did the first pitch, Dawn did the overhanging chimney which was cool and I led to the top from there.
I did the first pitch, Dawn did the overhanging chimney which was cool and I led to the top from there.
Dawn_K_B 7 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch, perfect black slab traverse and used some outrageous moves on the chimney. Hard moves but good protection. It was nice to see Dave from PYB there too!
with charvey
Led 2nd pitch, perfect black slab traverse and used some outrageous moves on the chimney. Hard moves but good protection. It was nice to see Dave from PYB there too!
with charvey
Tarquin 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd
carl_123 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Jenny Hall 26 Jul, 2014 2nd dog Tough move needed assistance.
with uwoodwoodu, Louis
Tough move needed assistance.
with uwoodwoodu, Louis
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 -
Louis Hume 26 Jul, 2014 Lead Chimney too some working out but goes nice once you got it cracked. Assisted hoist for one of the seconds, well done team.
Chimney too some working out but goes nice once you got it cracked. Assisted hoist for one of the seconds, well done team.
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
Helen Gibson 29 Jun, 2014 AltLd led 2nd pitch. hee, hee awkward pull into chimney!
led 2nd pitch. hee, hee awkward pull into chimney!
ColinD 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd
with Richard Hammond
with Richard Hammond
Hidden 20 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
ruairidhwad ?Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Shaun Humphreys, Ben Kelsey
with Shaun Humphreys, Ben Kelsey
Hidden 28 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
jezb1 28 Apr, 2014 AltLd P2. OK route. The chockstone perplexed me before I saw the holds on the right.
P2. OK route. The chockstone perplexed me before I saw the holds on the right.
jsmcfarland 15 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Biggest sandbag route I've ever done, felt way more like HVS with plenty of 5a sections, though there was some great climbing at times. 2nd pitch was scary as hell going up the overhanging chimney with hardly any gear but somehow I led it. Worst "rest day" I've ever had!
Biggest sandbag route I've ever done, felt way more like HVS with plenty of 5a sections, though there was some great climbing at times. 2nd pitch was scary as hell going up the overhanging chimney with hardly any gear but somehow I led it. Worst "rest day" I've ever had!
Hidden 15 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
highclimber 14 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Yet another Wastad sandbag. Good middle pitch if a bit stiff at 4c.
Yet another Wastad sandbag. Good middle pitch if a bit stiff at 4c.
will moy 14 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
swmackey 13 Apr, 2014 AltLd
with sihills
with sihills
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
rbharries ??, 2014 AltLd
with Greg Edwards
with Greg Edwards
Hidden 28 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Jules Lane 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led all but P1. Epic 2nd pitch. Coming round the corner after the delicate traverse was a little shocking, and after committing to it was really pleased to get up the chimney quite well. Last pitch up the top of Ribstone Crack was good too. Worth more than 1 star for sure.
with Mynydd Dave K
Led all but P1. Epic 2nd pitch. Coming round the corner after the delicate traverse was a little shocking, and after committing to it was really pleased to get up the chimney quite well. Last pitch up the top of Ribstone Crack was good too. Worth more than 1 star for sure.
with Mynydd Dave K
David Kay 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Rob, Jules Lane
with Rob, Jules Lane
Rob Royle 26 Aug, 2013 2nd Very interesting route! The chimney section certainly got me grunting a bit......
with Jules Lane, David Kay
Very interesting route! The chimney section certainly got me grunting a bit......
with Jules Lane, David Kay
rob.grafton 25 Aug, 2013 Lead
with Jim
with Jim
Jacob Forshaw 20 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
davewsargent 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S pitch 1 and 3/4
pitch 1 and 3/4
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd
TrevorCruse 5 Jul, 2013 AltLd dnf Led second pitch. Did not complete the route. My belay plate came off my harness somehow on the second pitch. Clive was not happy to second the chimney with only a waist belay, so I lowered him to a ledge, abseiled down to him, and we both abseiled off. A bit of an epic.
with Clive Dean
Led second pitch. Did not complete the route. My belay plate came off my harness somehow on the second pitch. Clive was not happy to second the chimney with only a waist belay, so I lowered him to a ledge, abseiled down to him, and we both abseiled off. A bit of an epic.
with Clive Dean
Andrew Lester 18 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Big Lee 25 May, 2013 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2 and 4. Awesome second pitch. Almost at my bridging limit beneath the chockstone. Tough for the grade.
with tiga271
Led pitch 2 and 4. Awesome second pitch. Almost at my bridging limit beneath the chockstone. Tough for the grade.
with tiga271
tiga271 25 May, 2013 AltLd Led 1st
with Lee
Led 1st
with Lee
tomjemmett 6 May, 2013 2nd dog Dave Lead.
with Dave Wilkinson, Carol Umarova
Dave Lead.
with Dave Wilkinson, Carol Umarova
brockers 20 Apr, 2013 AltLd rpt Repeat ascent. Still a nice route :)
Repeat ascent. Still a nice route :)
alpinismo.uk 20 Apr, 2013 AltLd
Nick Biven ??, 2013 -
Simon Cahill 9 Aug, 2012 AltLd I lead pt 2 across the black slab, could not make move to "cross over" to enter the far chimney, Note it crosses over then goes up rather than trying to go straight up the chimney), I down climbed back across the traverse to the belay, Simon led through. Still difficult even as a second. Top pitches ok, as for Crack stone rib at Severe.
with brockers, Maggie Bass
I lead pt 2 across the black slab, could not make move to "cross over" to enter the far chimney, Note it crosses over then goes up rather than trying to go straight up the chimney), I down climbed back across the traverse to the belay, Simon led through. Still difficult even as a second. Top pitches ok, as for Crack stone rib at Severe.
with brockers, Maggie Bass
Bennykr 9 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
Jillybean 9 Aug, 2012 AltLd Sweet route, with crag swag and midges! I led P1 and 3
with Bennykr
Sweet route, with crag swag and midges! I led P1 and 3
with Bennykr
brockers ?Aug, 2012 AltLd led main pitch. Nice.
led main pitch. Nice.
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 AltLd
lcullum7 28 May, 2012 AltLd dnf
with SarahA
with SarahA
Desi Gillespie 25 May, 2012 2nd
with Chris Goldsmith
with Chris Goldsmith
ryanb83 24 Apr, 2012 TR Abseiling and going through multi-pitch climbing. RCF
Abseiling and going through multi-pitch climbing. RCF
thecurlyone 29 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead 1st, 3rd and 4th Pitches. Little pro on first pitch, but fairly straight forward climbing. Scary Move round the chockstone on P2! Last two pitches easy and fun.
with Simon
Lead 1st, 3rd and 4th Pitches. Little pro on first pitch, but fairly straight forward climbing. Scary Move round the chockstone on P2! Last two pitches easy and fun.
with Simon
simonvand 15 Nov, 2011 AltLd
roberts1234567890 15 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S
sgl 14 Nov, 2011 AltLd Andy
Andy
Hidden 1 Sep, 2011 AltLd
Lawrie Brand 17 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Joe
with Joe
Hidden 26 Jul, 2011 Lead
alexjz 24 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
with Romy Wild
with Romy Wild
Hidden 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
kristinawe 2 Jul, 2011 2nd
Lotte Stuer 2 Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Kristina, Iona
with Kristina, Iona
fizzychewitt 30 Jun, 2011 AltLd Definitely charcter building! Much harder than 4c if shorter than 5ft10
Definitely charcter building! Much harder than 4c if shorter than 5ft10
Hidden 6 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
dan ely 6 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
carlh 3 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S A very bold route for the grade and tough overhanging chimney moves in baking hot conditions! Took a while on the crux pitch as was fried after second day in the sun! Ben strayed onto Crackstone Rib on his pitch after crux.
A very bold route for the grade and tough overhanging chimney moves in baking hot conditions! Took a while on the crux pitch as was fried after second day in the sun! Ben strayed onto Crackstone Rib on his pitch after crux.
pawelx 1 May, 2011 AltLd dnf only did P1, got put off but how unprotected it was
only did P1, got put off but how unprotected it was
John sealey 28 Apr, 2011 AltLd
The Bad Cough 28 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Apr, 2011 Lead
Hidden 16 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
Johnywilks 22 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
bigrob 4 Mar, 2011 AltLd
with coombs, ANDY MACENZIE
with coombs, ANDY MACENZIE
coombs 4 Mar, 2011 AltLd
uphillnow ??, 2011 -
Rory Shaw ??, 2011 -
Hidden ?Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S
duncanjohnstone 31 Jul, 2010 2nd
Ed Griffin 29 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
with A123
with A123
Hidden 29 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 May, 2010 Lead
malc 24 Apr, 2010 AltLd rpt
with Martin Hewes, Paul S
with Martin Hewes, Paul S
Hidden 18 Apr, 2010 Lead
andeeeee 17 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
with Nick Read
with Nick Read
mick1jones 17 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S Led 2nd crux pitch. Forgot to protect Dale across traverse after chimney - naughty!
with Chris Dale
Led 2nd crux pitch. Forgot to protect Dale across traverse after chimney - naughty!
with Chris Dale
Dale ?Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S mick lead the crux pitch, he decided not to put any gear in after the crux then quite a big traverse, good job i was quite convident i was in for a big swing, i told him off. ha ha
with mick
mick lead the crux pitch, he decided not to put any gear in after the crux then quite a big traverse, good job i was quite convident i was in for a big swing, i told him off. ha ha
with mick
DuckingFesperate ??, 2010 Lead
Hidden ??, 2010 -
dkd ??, 2010 Lead O/S
with Al
with Al
Hidden 21 Aug, 2009 AltLd
Ralfy 21 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S I did 2nd and 3rd pitch, as one. Mark did 1+2 as one pitch up to below 4c. Left him in hanging belay while helped Joe and Amy. Mark did 4th of crackstone.
I did 2nd and 3rd pitch, as one. Mark did 1+2 as one pitch up to below 4c. Left him in hanging belay while helped Joe and Amy. Mark did 4th of crackstone.
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
JDDD 15 Mar, 2009 AltLd dnf The chockstone is all but impassable when wet.
The chockstone is all but impassable when wet.
Hidden ?Mar, 2009 AltLd
Hidden 17 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 17 Jul, 2008 2nd
Hidden ??, 2008 2nd
Matt Vigg ??, 2008 -
Gman ?Aug, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Dave
with Dave
Hidden ?Jul, 2007 AltLd
dan gibson 4 Jun, 2007 Solo O/S
Carly 26 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
with sophie
with sophie
Hidden 26 May, 2007 AltLd O/S
MikeLeeds 6 Apr, 2007 AltLd
with John Forrester
with John Forrester
Lev 6 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Emma
with Emma
Hidden 6 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
clive-greenwood 15 Oct, 2006 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2, it's a corker.
Lead pitch 2, it's a corker.
Hidden 7 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
GavinB ?Sep, 2006 Lead O/S
urbanmonkey 29 Apr, 2006 Lead dnf Scary no gear
with Cath Bilson
Scary no gear
with Cath Bilson
AngelaC 28 Apr, 2006 AltLd AC 2nd
with dpc
AC 2nd
with dpc
mikelaing ??, 2006 -
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
beardy mike ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Frank Medina
with Frank Medina
Si ??, 2006 AltLd
with Jo
with Jo
akhughes ??, 2006 -
ritchierich 10 Aug, 2005 Lead rpt Just had to take someone else on this climb the next day,fantastic route.
with Robbie Alexander
Just had to take someone else on this climb the next day,fantastic route.
with Robbie Alexander
ritchierich 9 Aug, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Bob Dickson
with Bob Dickson
mooseloose 11 Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S Lots of safe storage for wires and gear in the bay on the second pitch
with Robo & Jana
Lots of safe storage for wires and gear in the bay on the second pitch
with Robo & Jana
Stone Muppet ??, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2005 AltLd
George Ormerod 10 Jul, 2004 AltLd O/S
dicky79 ?Jun, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Michelle
with Michelle
Darragh ?Jun, 2004 -
with Colm & Sonja
with Colm & Sonja
Hidden 13 May, 2004 AltLd
Sut 26 Apr, 2004 AltLd O/S
pauldrew ??, 2004 AltLd
clams ??, 2004 Lead O/S
with AD
with AD
joe c ook ?Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
with R.Bates
with R.Bates
Mark Davies PK ?Jul, 2003 Solo O/S
Mark Riley ?Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?May, 2003 Lead O/S Soloed first pitch. Finished up Crackstone Rib
with Ian Fones
Soloed first pitch. Finished up Crackstone Rib
with Ian Fones
Hidden ?May, 2003 AltLd
caradoc 1 Jun, 2002 AltLd O/S
with john b
with john b
Hidden ??, 2002 -
keith leonard ??, 2002 -
DerwentDiluted ?Jun, 2001 AltLd
1202alarm ??, 2000 -
clams ??, 2000 2nd dog
with UMC
with UMC
Hidden 16 Oct, 1999 AltLd O/S
Derek Ryden 2 Aug, 1999 AltLd O/S
with Mark Lee
with Mark Lee
five ?Aug, 1999 AltLd O/S
with TW
with TW
Iain Brown 19 Jun, 1999 -
with Gerdy
with Gerdy
EllieWoods 17 Jun, 1999 AltLd O/S
Paul-Michael 20 Sep, 1998 Lead dnf Emma came off at the overhanging chimnney on the 2nd pitch.
with Emma Day
Emma came off at the overhanging chimnney on the 2nd pitch.
with Emma Day
lost.arrow 3 May, 1998 Lead
with Gill Heartly
with Gill Heartly
rachm2004 1 May, 1998 2nd Spent over an hour waiting for route, then ages waiting at top of first pitch - then started raining so we abseiled off
Spent over an hour waiting for route, then ages waiting at top of first pitch - then started raining so we abseiled off
Paul-Michael 14 Feb, 1998 AltLd dnf Lead 1st pitch, Another rope climbed through on 2nd pitch ignoring protests & their ropes pulled me off the overhanging chimney.
with Paul Nurse
Lead 1st pitch, Another rope climbed through on 2nd pitch ignoring protests & their ropes pulled me off the overhanging chimney.
with Paul Nurse
zero six ??, 1998 Lead O/S
Strong Steve 10 Sep, 1997 Lead O/S
BenTiffin 30 Apr, 1997 AltLd
with Matt Clegg
with Matt Clegg
Different Steve ?Mar, 1997 AltLd O/S 1st VS climbed - character building stuff on P1 & P2
with Darren Lambert
1st VS climbed - character building stuff on P1 & P2
with Darren Lambert
Hidden 20 Sep, 1996 Solo
Paul Boardman 24 Aug, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
with Iain Boardman
Hidden 17 Aug, 1996 AltLd
Hidden 6 Jun, 1996 2nd
Hidden 14 Oct, 1995 Lead
Hidden 27 Jun, 1995 Lead
Ched ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
jim_randell 23 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S
with SL2
with SL2
babymoac 17 Jul, 1994 AltLd
with cash
with cash
colin milton 18 Jun, 1994 AltLd
with eric milton
with eric milton
ste_d 11 Jun, 1994 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16 Apr, 1994 AltLd
Pete_Frost ??, 1994 AltLd rpt 2nd attempt after beta from Nick's dad! Jam to start the traverse.
with Nick Davies
2nd attempt after beta from Nick's dad! Jam to start the traverse.
with Nick Davies
malc 13 Mar, 1993 Lead O/S
WB ??, 1992 -
Mick King 7 Sep, 1991 Solo
sdht ??, 1991 -
Dave Rumney ??, 1991 Solo
Hidden ??, 1990 -
Hidden ??, 1990 -
michael burrows 7 May, 1989 AltLd O/S led 1st,3rd and 4th pitches
with pete roberts
led 1st,3rd and 4th pitches
with pete roberts
Budge ?Jun, 1988 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
with Richard Teed
Neil McA 27 May, 1988 Solo O/S
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! ?May, 1988 AltLd O/S
with Ian Sheppard
with Ian Sheppard
Hidden 11 Apr, 1988 AltLd
Backinthegame ?Aug, 1986 AltLd
with Gary Hughes
with Gary Hughes
Rob Davies ??, 1985 AltLd Date?
with Roy Lindsay, Mike Papworth
Date?
with Roy Lindsay, Mike Papworth
Ian Clare ??, 1984 -
Melok ??, 1984 -
Robmwatt ??, 1983 -
DonnyDave 15 Jul, 1981 AltLd
with Richard Tuting, Simon ????
with Richard Tuting, Simon ????
Hidden ??, 1981 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 1980 -
Bruce Kerr 18 Apr, 1979 Lead
with Brian Carson
with Brian Carson
Ken Taylor 15 Sep, 1978 AltLd
with Jonathan Lagoe
with Jonathan Lagoe
mikej 9 Sep, 1977 Lead
with Tony Waite
with Tony Waite
Ian Jones ??, 1977 AltLd O/S
with Billy Jones
with Billy Jones
Bolt Phobia 8 Nov, 1975 Lead
with John Broadwell
with John Broadwell
Hidden ?Aug, 1975 AltLd
kjacks ??, 1975 Lead Serious 2nd pitch not to be underestimated at the grade, would say more like low end HVS
with John Webster
Serious 2nd pitch not to be underestimated at the grade, would say more like low end HVS
with John Webster
Mark Kemball ??, 1975 AltLd
with Pete Leury
with Pete Leury
Bob M ??, 1974 -
with Jal Arustu
with Jal Arustu
granitbahn ??, 1974 AltLd
Martin Bennett 13 May, 1972 -
with Geoff Baker, JD
with Geoff Baker, JD
Tom V ??, 1972 -
Rick51 20 Sep, 1970 AltLd
ill_bill ?Jun, 1970 2nd
with Martin Bown
with Martin Bown
tapley 6 Aug, 1969 AltLd
with Dave Hearnshaw
with Dave Hearnshaw
greenbuoy ?Aug, 1969 2nd
with Terry Taylor
with Terry Taylor
mikej 25 Feb, 1968 AltLd dnf North Wales has now been opened after the Foot and Mouth epidemic.
with Pete Kokolaar, Geoff Williams
North Wales has now been opened after the Foot and Mouth epidemic.
with Pete Kokolaar, Geoff Williams
Hidden 18 Jun, 1967 Lead
Seymore Butt ??, 1966 AltLd
with Ian Heys
with Ian Heys
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 65
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 64
Votes cast 51
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set