90m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant route, and a good tick for any VS leader. Start as for Unicorn on the left-hand side of the crag.
1) 4b, 15m. Unicorn P1.
2) 4c, 24m. Move right onto a black slab, continue diagonally right to an overlap/break. Keep going up and right to the large fissure of Overhanging Chimney (VS) and climb this past a chockstone until a swing right on the wall leads to a stance.
3) 4a, 26m. Climb the slab on the right, pass a short chimney, and continue on to Crackstone Rib.
4) 4a, 18m. Step right from the stance and climb up to a tree, then follow a large flake. © Rockfax

Ticklists: "A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST.


ClimberDateStyle
rashwell 14/May AltLd
Hannes B 14/May Solo O/S
Hidden 07/May 2nd
will_benfold 07/May Lead O/S
with James Masters, Patrik Caspar
JackM92 04/May AltLd O/S

In 40 mph winds...thought I was climbing like a muppet then read the comments below. Pretty run out at times for a VS, some blind moves in the chimmney but the difficult bits are well protected.

Hidden 04/May AltLd O/S
steven_daniels99 02/May -
peter.ravenscroft27 08/Apr AltLd

with Seamus
TwofoZeus 26/Mar 2nd

Super windy, far harder than the grade suggests.

ripper 25/Mar AltLd

An adventure! Very strong wind, route finding problems and lack of gear on our chosen line put Ross and Simon off so I led all the way to the junction with Crackstone Rib - Ross finished up the last pitch of this. Sequence to and past the big chockstone certainly felt interesting at the grade.

fweatherall1 30/Oct/16 AltLd
Chubbs 09/Oct/16 AltLd
Hidden 09/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Oct/16 2nd
Hidden 09/Oct/16 Lead O/S
stratandrew 08/Oct/16 AltLd dnf

A hanging flake/block on the overhanging chocktone part of overhanging chimney v loose and about to break off so I tried the alternatives vi the left groove then the E1 5c over the overlapping wall crux but failed on both of these! downclimbed the 4c slab pitch with assistance from an in situ nut on which i left a Karabiner. Abbed off from the Holly tree at the belay at the top of P1. I'll cem back to this one but please beware the block under the chockstone.

with Geri Mihalkova, Jim Symon
jandyd05 21/Sep/16 Lead O/S

1st pitch run out low down. 2nd pitch, poorly protected traverse before the epic (but protectable) moves across into overhanging chimney below the chockstone then up over it before the traverse right ad easier ground. HVS 5a for the chimney moves and the poor protection.

with Jason Greaves
Woodmouse 18/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Beautiful climb, esp last pitch, however could have done with taking more slings. Quite a few wobbly rocks, and very hard move at the overhang/chimney! Did Pitches 1 & 4

JulianB 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Pinguville 07/Sep/16 AltLd

led p1 , and 3 . start was pretty bold and run out on weird rock / delicate climbing but not too hard . Nice traverse , but then the chimney move is pretty bloody awfull , sandbag at VS ! is doable but after a lot of huffing and chuffing , and obviously theres the majorly loose rock to avoid !

with George
Hidden 07/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Prof. Outdoors 07/Sep/16 AltLd
with Wendy
No? Yes! 17/Aug/16 AltLd

Agree with others - surely a 5a move around the block ? .Large loose rock wedged on right under it too that wobbles alarmingly !

with Bern
Hidden 22/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Benjaminblanc 11/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Solid VS but that move across the large fissure/gap is verging on 5A if you avoid feet on the big loose block which looks like it will go any time now. It looks like the block has been used to place gear in the past but there is still plenty of choice around the chimney.

with Seema
Seema 11/Jun/16 2nd
Hidden 10/Jun/16 AltLd
jezb1 30/May/16 Lead

Makes it harder when your client doesn't seem to like giving slack...

Tim Sparrow 15/May/16 -

Done after attempting Unicorn! Dangerous loose block at junction with Overlapping Wall.

with Piers Nesbitt
Pete_Frost 14/May/16 AltLd rpt
with Blake
Blake 14/May/16 AltLd O/S

**CAUTION Very dangerous loose block at foot level as you enter the chimney - this is literally about to come off, so please make sure nobody is beneath you. Decent route - solid HVS 5A though if we're honest; unprotected traverse over weird volcanic black rock and powerful exposed moves into the chimney.

Hidden 06/Apr/16 AltLd
WillDoyle 21/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Mar/16 AltLd
Heather Osborne 18/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Climbed in 3 pitches, led pitches 2 and 3 - amazing route!

dobby 200 14/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

I climbed P2 and P3. Amazing route with loads of Columnar jointing

with Kendal
Allanfairfechan ??/2016 AltLd
with Simon Leigh Smith
Seymore Butt ??/2016 -
Hidden 28/Oct/15 AltLd
JessWilliams 19/Oct/15 AltLd
with Dad
DannyH001 14/Oct/15 AltLd
Hidden 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Bryan M 10/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

P1 & 3. Pero lead 2 & 4. The bold move across Overhanging chimney on p2 is possibly 5a.

with Pero
Pero 10/Sep/15 AltLd
Steveb27 06/Sep/15 AltLd

A proper Wastad VS - if you know what I mean...!

Michael Morrell 27/Aug/15 Lead
martin c 25/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Felt tough and dodgy on first pitch due to lack of protection.

with Dave Thomas
DanDevey94 16/Jul/15 2nd dog

Lion was a good scare, there was loose rock under the chimney, and the overhang was unexpected. Took a fall on the crux.

Mr Tickle 16/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Dan2
Marcin78 ?/Jul/15 AltLd
with Tomek
rushy11111918 29/Jun/15 Lead
with Ron Rees Davies
Ron Rees Davies 29/Jun/15 2nd
with Matt
shaunhumphreys 19/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

In grim weather strung last 2 pitches together so we could get off it quicker

benkelsey 19/Jun/15 2nd O/S

got 'the fear'. very cold, one runner on my rope forgot how to climb, so cold.

with rory wadsworth, Shaun Humphreys
noemie5438 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with Liam
Hidden 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
PatrickEnglish 04/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Andrew Lester 21/May/15 AltLd
jalqazzaz 13/May/15 Lead dnf

After getting past the chock stone we had to bail to get to work on time :(. Thats a hard pitch for a VS, could have possibly been the damp but still!

static266 13/May/15 2nd dnf
Lucylou19 23/Apr/15 AltLd dnf

felt ill so bailed after first pitch

with Jeannie Sherwood
Hidden 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/15 2nd dnf
Andy Worster 03/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
Si ??/2015 -
Pero 22/Sep/14 AltLd
GermanAlex 14/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1+2 in one, nice traverse and quite gymnastic moves to pass the big jammed block. Definitely felt like 5a to me, probably not enhanced by considerable ropedrag. Don't really see how I could've avoided that though.

Hidden 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Dawn_K_B 07/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch, perfect black slab traverse and used some outrageous moves on the chimney. Hard moves but good protection. It was nice to see Dave from PYB there too!

Tarquin 31/Jul/14 AltLd
carl_123 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Jenny Hall 26/Jul/14 2nd dog

Tough move needed assistance.

with tom wood, Louis
Hidden 26/Jul/14 -
Louis Hume 26/Jul/14 Lead

Chimney too some working out but goes nice once you got it cracked. Assisted hoist for one of the seconds, well done team.

Hidden 29/Jun/14 AltLd
Lyndsay Superclimber 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Ryan
Helen Gibson 29/Jun/14 AltLd

led 2nd pitch. hee, hee awkward pull into chimney!

ColinD 21/Jun/14 AltLd
with Richard Hammond
Hidden 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ruairidhwad ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Shaun Humphreys, Ben Kelsey
Hidden 28/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
jezb1 28/Apr/14 AltLd

P2. OK route. The chockstone perplexed me before I saw the holds on the right.

jsmcfarland 15/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Biggest sandbag route I've ever done, felt way more like HVS with plenty of 5a sections, though there was some great climbing at times. 2nd pitch was scary as hell going up the overhanging chimney with hardly any gear but somehow I led it. Worst "rest day" I've ever had!

Hidden 15/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
highclimber 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Yet another Wastad sandbag. Good middle pitch if a bit stiff at 4c.

will moy 14/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
swmackey 13/Apr/14 AltLd
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
rbharries ??/2014 AltLd
with Greg Edwards
Hidden 28/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Jules Lane 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led all but P1. Epic 2nd pitch. Coming round the corner after the delicate traverse was a little shocking, and after committing to it was really pleased to get up the chimney quite well. Last pitch up the top of Ribstone Crack was good too. Worth more than 1 star for sure.

with Mynydd Dave K
David Kay 26/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Rob, Jules Lane
Rob Royle 26/Aug/13 2nd

Very interesting route! The chimney section certainly got me grunting a bit......

with Jules Lane, David Kay
rob.grafton 25/Aug/13 Lead
with Jim
Jacob Forshaw 20/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17/Aug/13 Lead O/S
davewsargent 10/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

pitch 1 and 3/4

jshields 10/Aug/13 AltLd
TrevorCruse 05/Jul/13 AltLd dnf

Led second pitch. Did not complete the route. My belay plate came off my harness somehow on the second pitch. Clive was not happy to second the chimney with only a waist belay, so I lowered him to a ledge, abseiled down to him, and we both abseiled off. A bit of an epic.

with Clive Dean
Andrew Lester 18/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Big Lee 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 and 4. Awesome second pitch. Almost at my bridging limit beneath the chockstone. Tough for the grade.

tiga271 25/May/13 AltLd

Led 1st

with Lee
tomjemmett 06/May/13 2nd dog

Dave Lead.

with Dave Wilkinson, Carol Umarova
brockers 20/Apr/13 AltLd rpt

Repeat ascent. Still a nice route :)

alpinismo.uk 20/Apr/13 AltLd
Nick Biven ??/2013 -
Simon Cahill 09/Aug/12 AltLd

I lead pt 2 across the black slab, could not make move to "cross over" to enter the far chimney, Note it crosses over then goes up rather than trying to go straight up the chimney), I down climbed back across the traverse to the belay, Simon led through. Still difficult even as a second. Top pitches ok, as for Crack stone rib at Severe.

with Simon Brockers, Maggie Bass
Bennykr 09/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with JB
Jillybean 09/Aug/12 AltLd

Sweet route, with crag swag and midges! I led P1 and 3

with Ben
brockers ?/Aug/12 AltLd

led main pitch. Nice.

Hidden ?/Aug/12 AltLd
lcullum7 28/May/12 AltLd dnf
Desi Gillespie 25/May/12 2nd
with Chris Goldsmith
ryanb83 24/Apr/12 TR

Abseiling and going through multi-pitch climbing. RCF

thecurlyone 29/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st, 3rd and 4th Pitches. Little pro on first pitch, but fairly straight forward climbing. Scary Move round the chockstone on P2! Last two pitches easy and fun.

with Simon
simonvand 15/Nov/11 AltLd
roberts1234567890 15/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
sgl 14/Nov/11 AltLd

Andy

Hidden 01/Sep/11 AltLd
Lawrie Brand 17/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Joe
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Lead
alexjz 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Romy Wild
Hidden 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
kristinawe 02/Jul/11 2nd
Lotte Stuer 02/Jul/11 AltLd
with Kristina, Iona
fizzychewitt 30/Jun/11 AltLd

Definitely charcter building! Much harder than 4c if shorter than 5ft10

with Jayne
Hidden 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 06/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with terry
carlh 03/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

A very bold route for the grade and tough overhanging chimney moves in baking hot conditions! Took a while on the crux pitch as was fried after second day in the sun! Ben strayed onto Crackstone Rib on his pitch after crux.

pawelx 01/May/11 AltLd dnf

only did P1, got put off but how unprotected it was

jon22 28/Apr/11 AltLd
The Bad Cough 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Johnywilks 22/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Mar/11 AltLd
coombs 04/Mar/11 AltLd
uphillnow ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
spalice ?/Nov/10 AltLd O/S
with gwen lancashire
duncanjohnstone 31/Jul/10 2nd
Ed Griffin 29/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Alaric
Alaric 29/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Quite fancied this since 2003. Excellent route, but bold. First pitch (15m) has 3 marginal wires. Traverse on pitch 2 is largely unprotected as well. Crux on pitch 2 tricky and requires thought.

with Ed
Hidden 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/May/10 Lead
malc 24/Apr/10 AltLd rpt
with Martin Hewes, Paul S
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead
andeeeee 17/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Nick Read
mick1jones 17/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd crux pitch. Forgot to protect Dale across traverse after chimney - naughty!

with Chris Dale
Dale ?/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

mick lead the crux pitch, he decided not to put any gear in after the crux then quite a big traverse, good job i was quite convident i was in for a big swing, i told him off. ha ha

with mick
DuckingFesperate ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
dkd ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Al
Hidden 21/Aug/09 AltLd
Hidden 21/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
JDDD 15/Mar/09 AltLd dnf

The chockstone is all but impassable when wet.

Hidden ?/Mar/09 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/08 2nd
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
Matt Vigg ??/2008 -
Gman ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Dave
Hidden ?/Jul/07 AltLd
dan gibson 04/Jun/07 Solo O/S
Carly 26/May/07 AltLd O/S
with sophie
Hidden 26/May/07 AltLd O/S
MikeLeeds 06/Apr/07 AltLd
with John Forrester
Lev 06/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
clive-greenwood 15/Oct/06 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2, it's a corker.

Hidden 07/Oct/06 Lead O/S
urbanmonkey 29/Apr/06 Lead dnf

Scary no gear

with Cath Bilson
AngelaC 28/Apr/06 AltLd

AC 2nd

mikelaing ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Frank Medina
akhughes ??/2006 -
ritchierich 10/Aug/05 Lead rpt

Just had to take someone else on this climb the next day,fantastic route.

with Robbie Alexander
ritchierich 09/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
with Bob Dickson
mooseloose 11/Jun/05 AltLd O/S

Lots of safe storage for wires and gear in the bay on the second pitch

with Robo & Jana
Stone Muppet ??/2005 -
George Ormerod 10/Jul/04 AltLd O/S
with Roger
dicky79 ?/Jun/04 AltLd O/S
with Michelle
Darragh ?/Jun/04 -
with Colm & Sonja
Hidden 13/May/04 AltLd
clams ??/2004 Lead O/S
with AD
joe c ook ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with R.Bates
Mark Davies PK ?/Jul/03 Solo O/S
Mark Riley ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ?/May/03 Lead O/S

Soloed first pitch. Finished up Crackstone Rib

with Ian Fones
Hidden ?/May/03 AltLd
Hidden ??/2002 -
keith leonard ??/2002 -
DerwentDiluted ?/Jun/01 AltLd
Scotsken ??/2000 -
clams ??/2000 2nd dog
with UMC
Hidden 16/Oct/99 AltLd O/S
Derek Ryden 02/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
with Mark Lee
five ?/Aug/99 AltLd O/S
with TW
EllieWoods 17/Jun/99 AltLd O/S
Paul-Michael 20/Sep/98 Lead dnf

Emma came off at the overhanging chimnney on the 2nd pitch.

with Emma Day
lost.arrow 03/May/98 Lead
with Gill Heartly
rachm2004 01/May/98 2nd

Spent over an hour waiting for route, then ages waiting at top of first pitch - then started raining so we abseiled off

with Ian L
Paul-Michael 14/Feb/98 AltLd dnf

Lead 1st pitch, Another rope climbed through on 2nd pitch ignoring protests & their ropes pulled me off the overhanging chimney.

with Paul Nurse
zero six ??/1998 Lead O/S
Strong Steve 10/Sep/97 Lead O/S
BenTiffin 30/Apr/97 AltLd
with Matt Clegg
Different Steve ?/Mar/97 AltLd O/S

1st VS climbed - character building stuff on P1 & P2

with Darren Lambert
Hidden 20/Sep/96 Solo
Paul Boardman 24/Aug/96 AltLd O/S
with Iain Boardman
Chris Ellis 17/Aug/96 AltLd
with Louise Pellett
iskra2000 06/Jun/96 2nd

With Danuska Rycerz.

with Duncan Hornby
Hidden 14/Oct/95 Lead
Hidden 27/Jun/95 Lead
Ched ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
jim_randell 23/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with SL2
babymoac 17/Jul/94 AltLd
with cash
colin milton 18/Jun/94 AltLd
with eric milton
ste_d 11/Jun/94 AltLd O/S
with mik
Hidden 16/Apr/94 AltLd
Pete_Frost ??/1994 AltLd rpt

2nd attempt after beta from Nick's dad! Jam to start the traverse.

with Nick Davies
malc 13/Mar/93 Lead O/S
WB ??/1992 -
Mick King 07/Sep/91 Solo
sdht ??/1991 -
Dave Rumney ??/1991 Solo
Hidden ??/1990 -
Hidden ??/1990 -
michael burrows 07/May/89 AltLd O/S

led 1st,3rd and 4th pitches

with pete roberts
Budge ?/Jun/88 AltLd O/S
with Richard Teed
Hidden ?/May/88 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/88 AltLd
Backinthegame ?/Aug/86 AltLd
with Gary Hughes
Rob Davies ??/1985 AltLd

Date?

with Roy Lindsay, Mike Papworth
Ian Clare ??/1984 -
Hidden ??/1984 -
Robmwatt ??/1983 -
Bruce Kerr 18/Apr/79 Lead
with Brian Carson
Ken Taylor 15/Sep/78 AltLd
with Jonathan Lagoe
mikej 09/Sep/77 Lead
with Tony Waite
Ian Jones ??/1977 AltLd O/S
with Billy Jones
Bolt Phobia 08/Nov/75 Lead
with John Broadwell
Hidden ?/Aug/75 AltLd
kjacks ??/1975 Lead

Serious 2nd pitch not to be underestimated at the grade, would say more like low end HVS

with John Webster
Mark Kemball ??/1975 AltLd
with Pete Leury
Bob M ??/1974 -
with Jal Arustu
granitbahn ??/1974 AltLd
Martin Bennett 13/May/72 -
with Geoff Baker, JD
Tom V ??/1972 -
ill_bill ?/Jun/70 2nd
with Martin Bown
tapley 06/Aug/69 AltLd
with Dave Hearnshaw
greenbuoy ?/Aug/69 2nd
with Terry Taylor
mikej 25/Feb/68 AltLd dnf

North Wales has now been opened after the Foot and Mouth epidemic.

with Pete Kokolaar, Geoff Williams
Hidden 18/Jun/67 Lead
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 48
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 39
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set