UKC

Restricted Access

There are two types of climbing here: ‘traditional’ Dover-style ice climbing and sport-chalk (using pre-placed gear and lower-offs). The former lie on the cliffs immediately east of the beach at Saltdean (below the Lido), and the sport-chalk routes on both this cliff and the cliff east of the beach below The Smugglers Rest pub in Telescombe Cliffs (the name of the place not the cliff). All recent activity has been on the sport-chalk routes. The coastguards at the Solent Maritime Rescue Co-ordinating Centre (MRCC), should be phoned on (02392) 552100 before and after climbing. The chalk cliffs from Brighton to Newhaven and the wave-cut platform at their base are designated as an SSSI. Although the main interest of the site is geological, some rare and uncommon plants grow on the cliff face and in the narrow strip of cliff-top chalk grassland. The cliffs support a locally important colony of breeding seabirds, and a diverse community of beetles and spiders.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 January to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

There are two access restrictions agreed with English Nature: - The seaward side of the cliff-top fence must not be disturbed as the cliff-top turf is a very rare habitat. Do not top-out, and do not abseil or top-rope from the cliff-top. If this is ignored the future access for climbers will be put in jeopardy. Most of the new-style routes are equipped with lower-offs, but anyone doing the longer routes on the Western Cliff and a few others will need to install their own lower-offs/abseil stations below the crumbling cliff-top. This would be an improvement on the previous practice on many of the routes of using slings hanging down from the fence posts to belay on at the top. The other (variable) restriction is if peregrines are nesting - no climbing within 150 metres of the nests For information on any nesting restrictions, please phone the BMC's Access & Conservation Officer on 01614 383309.

45m, 2 pitches. IV/V. Start at the corner right of the blunt arĂȘte. 1) Climb the corner to a stance on the arĂȘte (25m). 2) Follow the rising traverse to the prominent slab on the right. Climb the slab to the steepening and make an awkward step right around the blunt rib to gain the second slab above which leads to the top (20m).

Feedback

User Date Notes
jeff 21 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Unfortunately this classic is now lost to the sea.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Unfortunately this classic is now lost to the sea.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Saltdean

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High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set
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