55m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A rather scary route that breaches the roof that every other route avoids. Start three metres right of Shadow Wall at a big flake.
1) 6a, 30m. Move up to the steep groove and climb up it until a wall leads you up and slightly right to a ledge on Trilon. Shuffle left to below a smooth upper groove and climb this to reach good holds on Shadow Wall. Move left to belay on one of the ledges below the impressive roof.
2) 6a, 17m. Somewhere up there a line of undercuts mark the way through the roof. Strenuous climbing across this leads to an exciting transition onto the headwall. Bold and exposed climbing on some worrying rock leads directly to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
P1 (6a) 35m. start on the right hand side of the main face. Climb up to a huge flake. From here pull up and left to the base of a groove, climb this past a hollybush to a tricky exit. Climb spikes to the bottom of a slim (rp) groove. Thin technicalities gain the belay above on ledges beneath the roof of P2.

P2 (6a) 20m. Pull wildy on undercuts, to tricky moves establishing yourself on the headwall. A few more moves up the vague groove complete this classic.

Ticklists

Top Five Pass E4's, North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Steve Long 5 Aug, 2018 AltLd Top pitch has lost the very loose block at the lip but the gear and holds are all part of a somewhat dodgy pillar. Exciting! But excellent gear under the overhang...
with Chris Parkin
Top pitch has lost the very loose block at the lip but the gear and holds are all part of a somewhat dodgy pillar. Exciting! But excellent gear under the overhang...
with Chris Parkin
Adam Booth 6 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Supposed to do the skull today but stopped at an RTC for a couple hours on route, so didn't have long enough - great consolation route though! Led first pitch. First E4 lead sine back from 8000m. Awesome pitch. Good lead on pitch 2 Ed; scary.
Supposed to do the skull today but stopped at an RTC for a couple hours on route, so didn't have long enough - great consolation route though! Led first pitch. First E4 lead sine back from 8000m. Awesome pitch. Good lead on pitch 2 Ed; scary.
Ed Booth 6 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Led top pitch -spicy. Loose columns which you put your gear behind the layback lever them. Cool route tho.
Led top pitch -spicy. Loose columns which you put your gear behind the layback lever them. Cool route tho.
jacob shieldhouse hadley 18 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S wasn't keen on the top pitch TBH
wasn't keen on the top pitch TBH
Dan Hale 18 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Led both pitches. Excellent route! Quite tricky to read and committing in places.
with Jacob Hadley
Led both pitches. Excellent route! Quite tricky to read and committing in places.
with Jacob Hadley
anguskille 6 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S First pitch only, really wet under the roof on the 2nd pitch so reversed and finished up Shadow Wall instead. Great route, another time!
with Butel
First pitch only, really wet under the roof on the 2nd pitch so reversed and finished up Shadow Wall instead. Great route, another time!
with Butel
Butel 6 Jul, 2016 2nd First pitch.... Second pitch wet. Last pitch of shadow wall.
First pitch.... Second pitch wet. Last pitch of shadow wall.
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 14 May, 2016 AltLd O/S p1. Great route, excellent lead from Deacon
p1. Great route, excellent lead from Deacon
deacondeacon 14 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Top pitch. Woohoo! I even let out a victory scream when I topped out. Intense go-ey climbing with a well out of sight belayer. The roof isn't as bad as it looks but you may wish it had had a stopper move :)
Top pitch. Woohoo! I even let out a victory scream when I topped out. Intense go-ey climbing with a well out of sight belayer. The roof isn't as bad as it looks but you may wish it had had a stopper move :)
breed 7 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
soph 31 Aug, 2015 Lead rpt Pitch 1 to top of shadow wall (this makes a great 3 star E3 6a )
with Ruth Bevan
Pitch 1 to top of shadow wall (this makes a great 3 star E3 6a )
with Ruth Bevan
Luke Brooks 28 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P2.
with barni
Led P2.
with barni
barni 28 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S P1
P1
HAJ Francis 3 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead second pitch, great climbing all the way. Deserves 3 stars.
Lead second pitch, great climbing all the way. Deserves 3 stars.
wi11 3 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S P1 Good gear and good (hard) moves. Surprised I got this clean. P2 was good fun to second, but glad I wasn't on lead!
P1 Good gear and good (hard) moves. Surprised I got this clean. P2 was good fun to second, but glad I wasn't on lead!
tim newton 21 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2. Was pretty nervous before hand, the roof looks so big and steep from the ground, but it gets smaller and less steep as you get closer and it's not actually too hard. The second pitch maybe only felt 5c in the end, though it certainly makes up for that in intimidation and some boldness and is probably a harder E4 than the 1st pitch. Pitch 1 is really good too, pretty well protected with a tricky move.
with gwen lancashire
Lead pitch 2. Was pretty nervous before hand, the roof looks so big and steep from the ground, but it gets smaller and less steep as you get closer and it's not actually too hard. The second pitch maybe only felt 5c in the end, though it certainly makes up for that in intimidation and some boldness and is probably a harder E4 than the 1st pitch. Pitch 1 is really good too, pretty well protected with a tricky move.
with gwen lancashire
Hidden 22 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 29 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S E4 6a - Spooky indeed.
E4 6a - Spooky indeed.
Adam Lincoln 28 Apr, 2011 AltLd
with Rick Kirby
with Rick Kirby
Si Witcher 30 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S spooky top pitch on creaking, detached columns. Maybe only 5c, but feels serious.
with Blair
spooky top pitch on creaking, detached columns. Maybe only 5c, but feels serious.
with Blair
feilx 23 May, 2010 Lead O/S 1st pitch only
1st pitch only
soph ?May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Tony Stone, Dan McManus
with Tony Stone, Dan McManus
Mike Goldthorp 6 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S lead 2nd pitch. both pitches are worthy of 3 stars in own right, top notch pitch!
lead 2nd pitch. both pitches are worthy of 3 stars in own right, top notch pitch!
Alex Mason 6 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S If it was 1 pitch it would be E5. both pitches are stout E4 with hard 6a moves. Superb climbing, not to be missed or under-estimated.
If it was 1 pitch it would be E5. both pitches are stout E4 with hard 6a moves. Superb climbing, not to be missed or under-estimated.
Howard Lawledge ??, 2010 -
with luke
with luke
mr mills ??, 2010 -
with ioan d
with ioan d
JulesV 8 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Superb E4.
with Shauna Cunningham
Superb E4.
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 11 May, 2009 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2009 2nd dog
IOAN D 2 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Mills
with Mills
mr mills ?Apr, 2008 Lead dog led first pitch, took a short fall on the top groove.
with ioan d
led first pitch, took a short fall on the top groove.
with ioan d
bronsonite 15 Jul, 2006 Lead O/S both pitches worth E4 imo
with Nathan Lawrence
both pitches worth E4 imo
with Nathan Lawrence
Hidden 31 May, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 May, 2004 Lead O/S
joe c ook ?Jul, 2003 Lead O/S
with T. Gore
with T. Gore
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?Apr, 2003 Lead O/S
with Viv
with Viv
Hidden 20 Jul, 1997 Lead
Neil McA 4 Jul, 1993 2nd O/S
with Paul Jenkinson
with Paul Jenkinson
Hidden 21 Jun, 1993 2nd
RockPhoenix 2 Sep, 1990 Lead O/S
with Bruv Simon
with Bruv Simon
Hidden 28 May, 1990 Lead
NickJH ?May, 1990 2nd
with D Picker
with D Picker
Nick Biven ??, 1990 2nd Twid pulled the big block out of the traverse. Exciting for those below. (Check date)
with Rich Whitwell
Twid pulled the big block out of the traverse. Exciting for those below. (Check date)
with Rich Whitwell
Eduardo Martinez ??, 1989 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1988 Lead
steveb2006 8 Sep, 1987 AltLd Led top pitch
with Andy Towne
Led top pitch
with Andy Towne
Seymore Butt ??, 1985 2nd
with Ian Fenton
with Ian Fenton
Hidden ?Jun, 1984 Lead
Melok ??, 1984 -
Ivan Machin 24 Aug, 1982 -
with Jon Mellor
with Jon Mellor
Hidden 30 May, 1981 Lead
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 8
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set