55m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A rather scary route that breaches the roof that every other route avoids. Start three metres right of Shadow Wall at a big flake.
1) 6a, 30m. Move up to the steep groove and climb up it until a wall leads you up and slightly right to a ledge on Trilon. Shuffle left to below a smooth upper groove and climb this to reach good holds on Shadow Wall. Move left to belay on one of the ledges below the impressive roof.
2) 6a, 17m. Somewhere up there a line of undercuts mark the way through the roof. Strenuous climbing across this leads to an exciting transition onto the headwall. Bold and exposed climbing on some worrying rock leads directly to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
P1 (6a) 35m. start on the right hand side of the main face. Climb up to a huge flake. From here pull up and left to the base of a groove, climb this past a hollybush to a tricky exit. Climb spikes to the bottom of a slim (rp) groove. Thin technicalities gain the belay above on ledges beneath the roof of P2.

P2 (6a) 20m. Pull wildy on undercuts, to tricky moves establishing yourself on the headwall. A few more moves up the vague groove complete this classic.

Ticklists: Top Five Pass E4's, North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

jacob shieldhouse hadley 18/Jul/16 2nd O/S

wasn't keen on the top pitch TBH

with Dan724
Dan724 18/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. Excellent route! Quite tricky to read and committing in places.

with Jacob Hadley
anguskille 06/Jul/16 Lead O/S

First pitch only, really wet under the roof on the 2nd pitch so reversed and finished up Shadow Wall instead. Great route, another time!

Butel 06/Jul/16 2nd

First pitch.... Second pitch wet. Last pitch of shadow wall.

Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 14/May/16 AltLd O/S

p1. Great route, excellent lead from Deacon

with Deacon
deacondeacon 14/May/16 AltLd O/S

Top pitch. Woohoo! I even let out a victory scream when I topped out. Intense go-ey climbing with a well out of sight belayer. The roof isn't as bad as it looks but you may wish it had had a stopper move :)

breed 07/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
soph 31/Aug/15 Lead rpt

Pitch 1 to top of shadow wall (this makes a great 3 star E3 6a )

with Ruth Bevan
Luke Brooks 28/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2.

with Barni
barni 28/Jul/14 AltLd O/S


with luke
HAJ Francis 03/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch, great climbing all the way. Deserves 3 stars.

wi11 03/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P1 Good gear and good (hard) moves. Surprised I got this clean. P2 was good fun to second, but glad I wasn't on lead!

with Henry F
tim newton 21/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2. Was pretty nervous before hand, the roof looks so big and steep from the ground, but it gets smaller and less steep as you get closer and it's not actually too hard. The second pitch maybe only felt 5c in the end, though it certainly makes up for that in intimidation and some boldness and is probably a harder E4 than the 1st pitch. Pitch 1 is really good too, pretty well protected with a tricky move.

with gwen lancashire
Hidden 22/May/12 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 29/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

E4 6a - Spooky indeed.

Adam Lincoln 28/Apr/11 AltLd
with Rick Kirby
switch 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

spooky top pitch on creaking, detached columns. Maybe only 5c, but feels serious.

with Blair
feilx 23/May/10 Lead O/S

1st pitch only

with Heather
soph ?/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Tony Stone, Dan McManus
Mike Goldthorp 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

lead 2nd pitch. both pitches are worthy of 3 stars in own right, top notch pitch!

Alex Mason 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

If it was 1 pitch it would be E5. both pitches are stout E4 with hard 6a moves. Superb climbing, not to be missed or under-estimated.

with Mikey G
Howard Lawledge ??/2010 -
with luke
mr mills ??/2010 -
with ioan d
JulesV 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Superb E4.

with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 11/May/09 AltLd
Hidden ??/2009 2nd dog
Seymore Butt ??/2009 -
IOAN D 02/May/08 Lead O/S
with Mills
mr mills ?/Apr/08 Lead dog

led first pitch, took a short fall on the top groove.

with ioan d
bronsonite 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S

both pitches worth E4 imo

with Nathan Lawrence
Hidden 31/May/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/04 Lead O/S
joe c ook ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with T. Gore
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?/Apr/03 Lead O/S
with Viv
Hidden 21/Jun/93 2nd
NickJH ?/May/90 2nd
with D Picker
Nick Biven ??/1990 2nd

Twid pulled the big block out of the traverse. Exciting for those below. (Check date)

with Rich Whitwell
Eduardo Martinez ??/1989 Lead O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1988 Lead
with Not Sure
Hidden 08/Sep/87 AltLd
jon ?/Jun/84 Lead
with H
Melok ??/1984 -
Ivan Machin 24/Aug/82 -
with Jon Mellor
Hidden 30/May/81 Lead
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High E5
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High E4
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High E3
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Votes cast 8
High 6b
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High 5c
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Votes cast 14
Votes cast 15
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