Restricted Access
New safety signing has been erected indicating the site owners (Hickley & Bosworth Borough Council) now prohibit a number of recreational activities in the quarry - including climbing and abseiling. Despite an approach to the Council by the BMC to discuss their concerns and the unfortunate situation of public land having restricted access in an area where it provides an important public amenity, no contact from the Council has been forthcoming. If climbers do decide to access the crag and are asked to leave by the landower, please be polite and pack away as soon as is safely possible.
Be careful of break-ins at the car park.
15m.
The NE Face of the Betty Peg. Looks horrible - it's not. Start at bottom right of face, then at a niche cross, leftwards, a slab for 7/8m. Straight over a couple of small roofs, and exit left. watch out for drag. Feels a bit like a mountain pitch (which it is obviously not!) For extra Multi-Pitch feel; belay from just short of the summit (stake in place).
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