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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Climb the shallow groove and make a hard move to a good hold. Some crimpy pulls lead to moves right past a tree to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The Berlin Wall-Short,intense crimping on superb rock. Climb the shallow groove left of Name In The Book to a good layaway and make a very hard stretch to place a good medium wire above. Make the crux move to a good hold a few more crimpy pulls end the difficulties, move right past the tree to the ample ledge of Name In The Book.(The grade assumes that the high wire is placed before the crux if this is not done the grade is probably top end E5.
guy percival 09/Oct/2010.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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The Boob Toob
Grade: E5 6a ***
(Near Hearkening Rock)