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Ticklists

"A Graded List of a Few Welsh Climbs" Aka ROGER'S LIST

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Wanderlust 12 May Show βeta
βeta: Take care! Very bold and chossy for VS. Scared me more than any HVS I've been on.
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βeta: Take care! Very bold and chossy for VS. Scared me more than any HVS I've been on.
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User Date Style Notes & Partners
JonesE 12 May AltLd O/S P1 + P3 - Well it was memorable. P1 -Bold, not great gear, one of the finest belays in among the holly trees. P2 - I think Rob might have gone too direct to stay on the rock (did match description in definitive Llanberis guide but a straighter line than the topo) - poor gear and bold climbing - definitely HVS 4c this way. P3 - Did the direct finish which was excellent but probably not worth risking your neck to get there.
P1 + P3 - Well it was memorable. P1 -Bold, not great gear, one of the finest belays in among the holly trees. P2 - I think Rob might have gone too direct to stay on the rock (did match description in definitive Llanberis guide but a straighter line than the topo) - poor gear and bold climbing - definitely HVS 4c this way. P3 - Did the direct finish which was excellent but probably not worth risking your neck to get there.
Wanderlust 12 May AltLd O/S Wow, just wow. I took the middle pitch. Bold throughout, loose and snappy rock, got really scared on my lead. Terrible really, bit dangerous and type 2 fun! Last bit was good tbf (direct finish) but I would say XS 4c
with JonesE
Wow, just wow. I took the middle pitch. Bold throughout, loose and snappy rock, got really scared on my lead. Terrible really, bit dangerous and type 2 fun! Last bit was good tbf (direct finish) but I would say XS 4c
with JonesE
Rohan Parmar 18 Apr AltLd O/S Kory had bit of a epic on the second pitch.
with Kory
Kory had bit of a epic on the second pitch.
with Kory
BenRyle 7 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Ian Grobowski, Dan Hale
with Ian Grobowski, Dan Hale
Jenny Hall 4 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
with Louis
with Louis
Hidden 23 May, 2017 2nd O/S
useful 16 Sep, 2016 AltLd Conditions: light drizzle at the start, but mostly dry. Wind 20-30mph gusts. P1: my lead, pretty run out; P2: Ian led, spent a while finding the unreliable gear on the arete and traverse! P3: I started, but bottled the overhang (due to my dislocating right wrist), so lowered back down to the belay and Ian finished it. A long, adventurous day! To be clear: this was the direct finish :)
with IanD353
Conditions: light drizzle at the start, but mostly dry. Wind 20-30mph gusts. P1: my lead, pretty run out; P2: Ian led, spent a while finding the unreliable gear on the arete and traverse! P3: I started, but bottled the overhang (due to my dislocating right wrist), so lowered back down to the belay and Ian finished it. A long, adventurous day! To be clear: this was the direct finish :)
with IanD353
IanD353 16 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with useful
with useful
jezb1 4 Jun, 2015 AltLd Really good top pitch with I think the left hand finish on a juggy rail.
Really good top pitch with I think the left hand finish on a juggy rail.
Tim Sparrow 23 May, 2015 Lead Not for an inexperienced vs leader! Rattly Rock on pitch 2, gear not obvious or in many places reliable, lots of long sling extension. Having said that, I thoroughly enjoyed piecing it all together and the wet traverse under the roof on pitch 2 was memorable. The solid wire near the belay gratefully slotted. Top pitch really good.
with Ian Owen
Not for an inexperienced vs leader! Rattly Rock on pitch 2, gear not obvious or in many places reliable, lots of long sling extension. Having said that, I thoroughly enjoyed piecing it all together and the wet traverse under the roof on pitch 2 was memorable. The solid wire near the belay gratefully slotted. Top pitch really good.
with Ian Owen
Pero 22 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Mark D 13 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Tommy B
with Tommy B
johnwarburton 29 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Late start on route at 6pm, led first pitch which is ok a bit overgrown but good gear.Lew led 2nd pitch which was steady until trying to get under the roof standing on collapsing grassy ledge was nerve wracking unless we went wrong.Led 3rd pitch totally wild strenuous,exposed going back left from the grass ramp good rope sense and long slings helped to reduce drag, felt like strenuous 5a getting into the nich not a route for your first vs lead topped out around 9.30p.
with lew brown, DAVE BOOTH
Late start on route at 6pm, led first pitch which is ok a bit overgrown but good gear.Lew led 2nd pitch which was steady until trying to get under the roof standing on collapsing grassy ledge was nerve wracking unless we went wrong.Led 3rd pitch totally wild strenuous,exposed going back left from the grass ramp good rope sense and long slings helped to reduce drag, felt like strenuous 5a getting into the nich not a route for your first vs lead topped out around 9.30p.
with lew brown, DAVE BOOTH
Rob Davies 20 Jun, 2014 AltLd This was an attempt to find the more direct LH finish, but Phil wanted to traverse all the way R to Dinas Cromlech on the last pitch. I went up to finish this pitch and, looking back from the traverse R, saw the really obvious line of holds we should have used. Come back another day
This was an attempt to find the more direct LH finish, but Phil wanted to traverse all the way R to Dinas Cromlech on the last pitch. I went up to finish this pitch and, looking back from the traverse R, saw the really obvious line of holds we should have used. Come back another day
Hidden 20 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Apr, 2014 -
EDB4YLI55 12 Mar, 2014 2nd
with Mike Hartley
with Mike Hartley
Hidden ??, 2014 -
Hidden ??, 2014 -
rd20 30 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Mike N
with Mike N
Hidden 30 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
Col Kingshott 10 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Overgrown, chossy but a good last pitch.
Overgrown, chossy but a good last pitch.
williemiller ?Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
Pete_Frost 26 May, 2013 AltLd O/S The direct finish is fantastic! Real space-walking. The holds are all positive and lead into awesome exposure and the gear is great. A contender for my favourite VS, ever.
with Will Miller
The direct finish is fantastic! Real space-walking. The holds are all positive and lead into awesome exposure and the gear is great. A contender for my favourite VS, ever.
with Will Miller
sian88 ??, 2013 AltLd O/S
tim20 ??, 2013 -
tim20 ??, 2013 -
Hidden 21 Sep, 2012 -
Simon Cahill 9 Aug, 2012 AltLd Done in 4 pitches, I lead second pitch to the "obvious block" leaving the block to left was less obvious. Belayed at the block (not great) Simon led through. Corner (our pt 3 or top of normal pt2) was hard for 4c.
with brockers, Maggie Bass
Done in 4 pitches, I lead second pitch to the "obvious block" leaving the block to left was less obvious. Belayed at the block (not great) Simon led through. Corner (our pt 3 or top of normal pt2) was hard for 4c.
with brockers, Maggie Bass
brockers ?Aug, 2012 AltLd Nice route. last two pitches were good! worth stars, shame it's not so well travelled it'd clean the route up a bit!
Nice route. last two pitches were good! worth stars, shame it's not so well travelled it'd clean the route up a bit!
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 AltLd
The Bad Cough 5 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Ralfy
with Ralfy
Ralfy 5 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Paul Cubbins
with Paul Cubbins
Falko 26 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P2 which ends above some ab tat around a rotten holly tree (squirm through the tree and belay on bomber gear in crack just above). Was tempted to bail but persevered. Good decision beacause the Direct Finish (P3) - as described in the Llanberis guide 2009 by I.A.Jones - was brilliant and totally made up for the jungle bashing lower down! Good lead in failing light by Steve. Whole route could do with one of my mum's 'spring cleans'.
with Steve M
Led P2 which ends above some ab tat around a rotten holly tree (squirm through the tree and belay on bomber gear in crack just above). Was tempted to bail but persevered. Good decision beacause the Direct Finish (P3) - as described in the Llanberis guide 2009 by I.A.Jones - was brilliant and totally made up for the jungle bashing lower down! Good lead in failing light by Steve. Whole route could do with one of my mum's 'spring cleans'.
with Steve M
DanC1985 16 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf Lead first pitch
with Charlotte
Lead first pitch
with Charlotte
nic42 6 Mar, 2011 Lead dnf
with poland, Fi
with poland, Fi
dan ely 16 Aug, 2010 AltLd i would'nt wanna trust the belay at the end of p2 but there is one 10m up and to right next to a crack at head hight above a slanted ledge (nearly 50m long pitch). amazing p2 which i lead. direct finish looks hard and scary, My 2nd did'nt wanna do it, pussy
with jon
i would'nt wanna trust the belay at the end of p2 but there is one 10m up and to right next to a crack at head hight above a slanted ledge (nearly 50m long pitch). amazing p2 which i lead. direct finish looks hard and scary, My 2nd did'nt wanna do it, pussy
with jon
Geras 27 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S I lead all three pitches. Actually not a bad route but very overgrown. Could do with a lot of gardening and some of the holly trees, choping back. Third pitch has a great hand traverse to the niche and fnal crack.
with Lee Roughead, Richard Nicholls
I lead all three pitches. Actually not a bad route but very overgrown. Could do with a lot of gardening and some of the holly trees, choping back. Third pitch has a great hand traverse to the niche and fnal crack.
with Lee Roughead, Richard Nicholls
Hidden 24 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
dickie01 22 May, 2010 AltLd dnf Overgrown!! abbed off as did not enjoy it, thanks to the person that obviously had the same idea and left a good sling in place on the second pitch
with Julian King
Overgrown!! abbed off as did not enjoy it, thanks to the person that obviously had the same idea and left a good sling in place on the second pitch
with Julian King
DuckingFesperate ??, 2010 Lead
benchwarmer 10 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
with alys
with alys
five 12 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S Unremittingly horrible route. Crux, on wet grass, was a traverse shared with Dead Entrance, a V Diff. Slug-filled top belay. Gorse-bush hugging to finish.
with MS, TW
Unremittingly horrible route. Crux, on wet grass, was a traverse shared with Dead Entrance, a V Diff. Slug-filled top belay. Gorse-bush hugging to finish.
with MS, TW
Skinny Kin 28 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S Why are there always some prickly holly at the belay?
with Nick Steen
Why are there always some prickly holly at the belay?
with Nick Steen
niallk 27 Sep, 2008 AltLd dnf Had to clamber through gorse, holly, grass etc. Nasty traverse on 2nd pitch, bailed from the Holly tree wedged in the groove as others appeared to have done as not convinced things were going to improve. Not sure how it gets a *.
with Ross, Sarah
Had to clamber through gorse, holly, grass etc. Nasty traverse on 2nd pitch, bailed from the Holly tree wedged in the groove as others appeared to have done as not convinced things were going to improve. Not sure how it gets a *.
with Ross, Sarah
My Gravity 7 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Simon S
with Simon S
KeithW 6 Apr, 2007 AltLd dog Horrendous. Went wrong way on 1st pitch, had to lower off to get back on route. Then had to fight holly, gorse, earth & loose rock all the way. Not recommended!
with Corky
Horrendous. Went wrong way on 1st pitch, had to lower off to get back on route. Then had to fight holly, gorse, earth & loose rock all the way. Not recommended!
with Corky
Hidden 17 Feb, 2007 AltLd O/S
peter myers ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Julie Baum, Tom Sylvester
with Julie Baum, Tom Sylvester
caradoc 2 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Not sure what finish we did but it was tough. Confusing route.
with john b
Not sure what finish we did but it was tough. Confusing route.
with john b
adrianj 3 Jun, 2006 AltLd
with TimmyG
with TimmyG
Hidden 3 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?May, 2006 Lead
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2005 AltLd
Ched ??, 1995 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
Ian Clare ??, 1984 -
Robmwatt ??, 1983 -
DonnyDave 15 Jul, 1981 AltLd
with Richard Tuting, Simon ????
with Richard Tuting, Simon ????
Nigel Coe 4 May, 1980 -
with Pat Stanley, Steve Portnoi
with Pat Stanley, Steve Portnoi
Hidden 15 Apr, 1979 AltLd O/S
tapley 22 Sep, 1978 Lead
with Alison Tapley
with Alison Tapley
mikej 17 Jul, 1978 Lead
with Tony Waite
with Tony Waite
tmawer 20 May, 1978 AltLd O/S Climbed as "Bole Way Direct" from old Ron James Rock Climbing in Wales Guide.
with Andy Taylor, Rick
Climbed as "Bole Way Direct" from old Ron James Rock Climbing in Wales Guide.
with Andy Taylor, Rick
Ian Jones ??, 1978 AltLd O/S
Mark Kemball 21 Dec, 1975 AltLd
Bolt Phobia 26 Oct, 1975 Lead
with Howard
with Howard
RichardMc 26 Oct, 1975 AltLd
with Harry Woodbridge
with Harry Woodbridge
Rob Davies 24 Jun, 1975 2nd Original finish traversing R - never spotted the line of holds taken by the LH finish.
with Mike Papworth
Original finish traversing R - never spotted the line of holds taken by the LH finish.
with Mike Papworth
Hidden 20 Apr, 1974 -
granitbahn ??, 1974 AltLd
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 25
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Not Set