The coast has unfortunately been used as a suicide spot and loose kit, clothing etc. lying around has resulted in the coastguard being called out. To avoid this, climbers are requested to ensure loose equipment and clothing is kept in rucksacks on the cliff top and preferably hidden from public view. You could also consider attaching a note to your sacks saying something like, 'Equipment being used by climbers - do not remove'.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
No climbing between The Tool and Marmolata Arete inclusive to prevent disturbance of nesting birds. If using the Marmolata abseil point, please stay in the corner, spend as little time on top as possible and don't bring dogs to the top of the crag. Restrictions also apply from Sardine Special to Hard Day's Night, Andycap to Raindrop and Quasimodo to Insectitude inclusive.
Rockfax Description
The start of this route needs a low tide and a calm sea.
1) 4c. Start on a ledge on the left side (looking out) of White Horse Zawn. Drop down onto a part-submerged boulder and fall across onto the right side of zawn. Traverse right to small niche and climb cracks up right then back left to a good belay.
2) 5b. Climb the groove above to easier ground to finish. © Rockfax
FA. R.J.Crewe, G.Smith, R.Kent 13/Nov/1971.
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)