8m. A difficult testpiece. The narrow v chimney left of Square Chimney is hard to enter from below.

First ascent details unclear, possibly Dolphin, Varley and Cook. 1942

Ticklists: The Complete Dolphin Collection, ARD Yorkshire Grit.

Callum Smith 30/Sep/17 Sent
Jmpollard 30/Sep/17 Solo O/S
with Callum Smith
Hidden 04/Jun/17 Solo G/U
jeddb 04/Apr/17 Sent x

The start as a boulder

Hidden 19/Jun/16 Solo rpt
Jake Young 28/Feb/16 Sent O/S
Teappleby 27/Feb/16 Sent rpt

Done the variation from square chimney before, but did this first go today.

amccann 27/Feb/16 Sent x
pete1993 27/Feb/16 Sent x
Dan Mckinlay ??/2016 -
andybirtwistle ??/2016 -
Climbster 25/Oct/15 Solo G/U

3 goes to get the start, then steady away.

with Vick
edinbed 14/Oct/15 Sent rpt
bomtall 11/Oct/15 Lead G/U
bomtall 11/Oct/15 Solo
Teappleby 10/Aug/15 Solo
with max
nick ferro 22/Jul/15 2nd rpt
with Oli Birkill
Steve Andrews 30/May/15 2nd β

Bouldering style hard start but finishes out fairly easy

KieranFallows 28/May/15 Solo G/U
Joshcastril 28/May/15 Solo
Hidden 21/May/15 Lead O/S
nick ferro 22/Mar/15 TR O/S
with Oli Birkill
Stroppy 15/Mar/15 Sent x
RKirke 28/Sep/14 Solo RP
with Alex T
Steve Wootton 11/Sep/14 Lead RP
scarmichael ?/Aug/14 Lead β

once you nail the starting move its a straightforward finish

Mike Todd 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S

All over after the first move, good though.

Hidden 03/Jul/14 Solo O/S
CragDog 20/Jun/14 Solo O/S
Wizzy 16/Jun/14 Solo O/S
oread 14/Jun/14 Solo β
MarkRoe 14/May/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/May/14 Solo O/S
karly54 11/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Took minimal gear, first move very hard.

Hollywood 11/Mar/14 2nd
with karly54
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH ??/2014 Solo
robertmctague ??/2014 Sent
petekeron 13/Oct/13 Solo O/S
with Solo
Hidden 23/Aug/13 TR
Calum Wadsworth 13/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Harrogate club
LeeBarnes ??/2013 TR
Dickon151 18/Dec/12 Solo O/S
efrance24234 22/Nov/12 Solo β


Hidden 21/Sep/12 TR
GrantB 03/Jul/12 2nd
with James
jkarran 03/Jul/12 Lead

2nd go and by feet-off brute force. Ugly!

with Grant
akhughes 10/Jun/12 Solo O/S
Steve Dunne ?/Jun/12 Lead
masa-alpin 12/May/12 Lead O/S

I placed a nut in the crucial finger slot below the crux, hence could not use it and it must have made the move harder. Nevertheless after climbing down and having a rest a few times, I managed the move cleanly. Pleased!

with Claudia
Hidden 12/May/12 2nd dnf
Hidden 15/Jul/11 Solo
Hidden 17/Jun/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 12/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 15/Nov/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 17/Sep/10 Sent
clive-greenwood 21/Jun/10 Lead β
with Anna
Hidden 27/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/May/10 2nd β
Hidden 27/May/10 2nd O/S
robin_hackney 23/May/10 Lead RP

A tough start that you really need to commit to. Once you have passed the crux low down, the route is very steady and well protected.

Dave Foster 23/May/10 2nd O/S

Bouldery start, satisfying route.

with Robin
simon kimber 01/May/10 Solo O/S
Ewan Russell 11/Nov/09 Sent x

Tried to lead it at the start of the day didn't happen, came back later on and after seeing ralph doing it got the hang of it. Then soloed whiskey crack to finish

with Ralph, one hand mat, Lubos
AlistairB 27/Jul/09 Solo RP

Quality burly problem, irritatingly blew the onsight by failing to commit with the feet.

Hidden 11/Mar/09 Solo rpt
Nicos 24/Jan/09 Solo O/S
with ryan
Hidden 18/Nov/08 Solo
Jack00 25/May/08 Lead

Got it 3rd or 4th time. Powerful.

with Steve Kirkup
Will Hunt 17/May/08 Lead RP

Got it sorted today. Up the rib.

Hidden 16/May/08 2nd dog
Will Hunt 23/Feb/08 Lead dnf

Absolutely nails. Fell off loads and couldnt stick the move, was very unimpressed with myself. Later used the chimney at 5b. Sean says a heel placement is crucial so will get it next time.

timbo58 06/Oct/07 TR
reg_measures 15/Aug/07 Solo RP
robman 13/Oct/06 Lead O/S

took the chimney start 5b

Luke Brooks 02/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with Rich Payne
Hidden 19/Jul/06 2nd
Hidden 24/May/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 23/May/06 Lead rpt
clive-greenwood ??/2006 TR
with Owen Sudlow
mike fenwick ?/Oct/05 Solo
antroy 25/Apr/04 Lead
Brown 29/Mar/04 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2003 Lead
Matt Rowat 11/Dec/02 Lead O/S
Roget 11/May/02 Solo O/S
pezzerrr 30/Apr/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/02 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Sent
Jonathan Richardson ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/99 Lead RP
chrishedgehog 14/May/98 Lead O/S
with Dan Bailey
bobboulderer ?/Nov/95 Lead RP
with Chris Jackson Jones
rob.grafton ??/1995 -
Hidden ??/1992 Solo
Hidden ??/1992 -
crossleysm ??/1991 Solo

c. 1991

Dave Musgrove 22/May/90 Solo
with David
Dave Musgrove Jnr 22/May/90 Solo
with Dad
Paul Clarke ??/1990 Lead
with Unsure
Jon Read ??/1990 Lead RP
with Ian Ransome
Pete Pozman 13/Sep/89 Lead O/S

Graded VS 4c at the time

with Pete Atkinson
Andy Say 09/Apr/89 Solo O/S
PaulHermes ??/1989 -
duncan ??/1988 Solo O/S
craig h 28/Feb/87 Solo O/S
GaryM 29/May/83 Solo
with Keith
charlesmfrench 27/Feb/82 2nd O/S
with Ian Milne
Hidden 03/Jun/79 Lead
Hidden 31/Mar/75 Lead
Dave Musgrove ??/1975 Solo
Hidden ??/1968 2nd
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 8
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set