82m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic route, that in reality is barely 25m high, but the winding path up and then down into the depths of the deep dark cave make this route a long and adventurous undertaking. To reach the start of the route, you need to abseil down to the ledge by the blowhole. Then swing out right to the seaward edge of the buttress and continue abseiling down to a belay at the base of the arete. This all feels a bit insecure.
1) 4a, 15m. Move up and left on good holds to gain a ledge that overlooks the belly of the deep sea cave, and belay at its left-hand end.
2) 5a, 20m. From the ledge, move down for a few metres to a descending line of small but positive holds, remembering to place gear to protect the unlucky second. Belay just above the sea at the base of a black groove, below a massive chockstone.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb the black groove to where the rock steepens - the rock here can be very damp. Somehow traverse right towards the light, passing a peg and be grateful that it is too dark to see how rotten it is. Steep moves on big holds lead out onto the chockstone. Pull up onto its top and belay.
4) 4b, 30m. Ascend the right-hand wall back up towards the top of the abseil point. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses.


ClimberDateStyle
PaulTanton 17/Sep AltLd O/S

Brilliant route. Can't grade it. The crux involves cutting loose with your feet, turning round and getting a high heel hook on. But you can get a head bar rest before that. Total adventure. Don't bother splitting the first two pitches, they are piss anyway. We had a seal growling and making all sorts of weird noises in the back of the cave. Absolutely brilliant, it's what Gogarth is all about. It was also wet, but it didn't make too much difference. Must do route.

with Joe
JenShelley 27/Aug 2nd
FlavioL1989 27/Aug Lead O/S

By far the craziest thing in the weirdest style I ever climbed! We unknowingly prepared for this route all summer or we would have set ourselves up for a mega epic - late start, no food/water, no headtorches and 3 legs. Still-on-one-leg-Jenny seconded the traverse with an ab back rope after down-leading the 5m bit. I lead to the chock and she somehow managed to jumar 3 sides of a damp square, I didn't place much gear and she basically did the pitch twice leading in reverse! Giant seals came almost within touching distance probably to witness the madness of climbing Flytrap on 3 legs. Topped out 15min before complete darkness. No ropes or ab line went for a dip-dip, everything was really slick, a rope-work masterclass :) Sport climbing - eat yer heart out!

joedean ??/2017 -
neilh ??/2017 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
masa-alpin 29/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

I lead P1 and P3, Phil did P2. We set off at 3pm and stupidly I didn't take a headtorch… Phil put on a head-torch during P2 (it was probably In the Next Room, rather than Flytrap; hard and scary with unsound rock), and passed it to me for seconding the pitch. I carried on leading the next pitch with the borrowed head-torch, followed by Phil without one. We topped out at 7pm.

with Phil Le
tim newton 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

P2 & 4. Lovely and dry, felt a bit undramatic!

Adam Booth 26/Sep/15 AltLd rpt

Joe Brown’s 85th birthday today.

with John Roberts, Jon Morgan
Hidden 26/Sep/15 AltLd
morganator 26/Sep/15 AltLd
with JR
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/15 AltLd
Michael Allday 17/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Bruce Houston 17/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Mega! What a climb! route was goping wet and covered in green slime! Plus Chinese water torture treatment on the stances....soaked! Still didn't detract from the quality of the climb with Good holds on crux pitch in a great position all the way to glory..

with Mike
alexjz 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route. The crux on P3 is on incredible and committing terrain, was proper gripped and had the guns on overdrive to get myself onto the chock stone!

with Sam Farmsworth
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Sardien 26/Aug/13 AltLd dog

Woaaah that was something! Led P2&4. High tide so abbed into belay at the top of P1, then traversed a high line into the belay at the bottom of the groove - more like 5b. The dead seal pup bobbing along right below me was not helpful. Rich then went up the soaking wet groove and traverse, but ended up right next to me at the belay again when the in situ nut at the crux popped out! Made me a bit shaky but he did it all again and got through superwet moves amazingly. I ended up dangling a fair bit at the crux, but it's such an amazing position - I didn't really mind to hang there for a bit!

Hidden 30/Jun/13 AltLd dnf
Andrew Wilson 11/Aug/12 AltLd

I led middle pitch. Route completely gripping. totally lived up to its name, it lures you in and you are right inside before you see the green dripping crux which you must conquer to escape the rising tide! Amazing position high up in the roof looking accross the high traverse to the chockstone. Photos do not do this route justice, you need to get in there and have a look, if you think you can get out again. . .

rustaldo 02/Jun/12 AltLd dog

Super adventurous route! Kit lead the first 2 pitches in a oner, P1 as described in ground up guide is a joke! Nowhere near 12m and at 4a abit of a nonsense. The main pitch was very damp, everything was greasy, couldn't trust the footing at all! "jugs on the back of the chockstone" as mentioned in the guidebook did not materialize and resorted to a beached whale / grovelling / thrutching approach to get onto the chockstone. Would happily repeat this in drier conditions, a great adventure and route! Probably a 5c move to get onto the chockstone. 1 fall making that move -- pumped! Top tip: brush up on your hoisting drills before you go incase your second comes off moving onto the chockstone!

Hidden 02/Jun/12 AltLd
Hidden 07/Nov/11 Lead O/S
dan-8990 06/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
with AO
dan ely 27/Aug/11 AltLd dog

crux is wet, loose and hard- thats my excuse for catching some airtime. sick route!!

with polly
Lawrie Brand 27/Jul/11 AltLd

Cave was horribly wet, retreated by reversing the second pitch.. Fine effort on Pete's behalf having a look at the crux, looked grim to me..Ground up N. Wales rock had no mention of a bird ban.. Only one big chick above the crag!

Hidden ?/Jun/11 AltLd
Alex Mason 14/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Phenomenally wild. Led P1 and P3. On first pitch I went right up to the height of the cave to a big ledge, contrary to the topo, but the description fit. The main pitch was pretty damp and needed to drop a loop and get more chalk. Really intense crux involving a proper cutloose on the chock. Memorable and hard for E2.

with Bubbles
NeilGriffiths ?/Jan/11 AltLd
with mux
NeilGriffiths ?/Jan/11 AltLd
with mux
Hidden ??/2011 -
mux ??/2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
soph 01/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
with Dan McManus
Hidden ??/2010 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2010 AltLd O/S
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
centurion05 18/Sep/08 2nd

its harder than 5b, awesome route tho.

with chris thorne
mux 15/Jun/08 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd dog
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Ben Wolstenholme 25/Oct/07 AltLd
Hidden 25/Oct/07 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 29/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 29/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Will1 ?/Jul/06 -
with Mike
Mark Reeves ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Rich Kirby 31/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

Intimidating route...brittle rock when damp-always i guess. Snapped a hold on main pitch.

with Ash
Hidden ?/Jul/05 AltLd
Gus 02/May/04 Lead O/S
with Rich Pickford
NeilGriffiths ??/2004 AltLd
with Dave Garry
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/01 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2001 -
sadams 01/May/00 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
Hidden 18/May/91 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Steve Lewis 14/Aug/78 AltLd O/S
with Paul Williams, sharpie
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
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High E1
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High 5c
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Votes cast 10
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Followed
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