82m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic route, that in reality is barely 25m high, but the winding path up and then down into the depths of the deep dark cave make this route a long and adventurous undertaking. To reach the start of the route, you need to abseil down to the ledge by the blowhole. Then swing out right to the seaward edge of the buttress and continue abseiling down to a belay at the base of the arete. This all feels a bit insecure.
1) 4a, 15m. Move up and left on good holds to gain a ledge that overlooks the belly of the deep sea cave, and belay at its left-hand end.
2) 5a, 20m. From the ledge, move down for a few metres to a descending line of small but positive holds, remembering to place gear to protect the unlucky second. Belay just above the sea at the base of a black groove, below a massive chockstone.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb the black groove to where the rock steepens - the rock here can be very damp. Somehow traverse right towards the light, passing a peg and be grateful that it is too dark to see how rotten it is. Steep moves on big holds lead out onto the chockstone. Pull up onto its top and belay.
4) 4b, 30m. Ascend the right-hand wall back up towards the top of the abseil point. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
pete johnson 1 Aug AltLd Mad. Do it. Piss wet.
with geoff b
Mad. Do it. Piss wet.
with geoff b
geoff b 1 Aug AltLd O/S Wild & weird. Pete ran P1 & P2 together, just traversing across a few metres above the sea at 5a to a stance under a dripping tap: plenty of gear thank heavens as I still slipped off & just missed a dunking! P3 was very damp but well protected: the in-situ wire & krab have been removed & the peg (mentioned in the guide) is a mere rusty stub now. The moves onto the chock stone were more like climbing wall moves as previous entries suggest: wild scrunched-up bridging, feet peddling on the soapy rock, dangling by your arms, throwing a foot & leg up to gain any purchase & hauling oneself exhausted on to the stance. All the while a family of seals were swimming back & forth through the cave. I think Pete enjoyed it somewhat less than I did!
Wild & weird. Pete ran P1 & P2 together, just traversing across a few metres above the sea at 5a to a stance under a dripping tap: plenty of gear thank heavens as I still slipped off & just missed a dunking! P3 was very damp but well protected: the in-situ wire & krab have been removed & the peg (mentioned in the guide) is a mere rusty stub now. The moves onto the chock stone were more like climbing wall moves as previous entries suggest: wild scrunched-up bridging, feet peddling on the soapy rock, dangling by your arms, throwing a foot & leg up to gain any purchase & hauling oneself exhausted on to the stance. All the while a family of seals were swimming back & forth through the cave. I think Pete enjoyed it somewhat less than I did!
Misha 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Crazy days! Soloed P1 and led through down and across P2 - a bit tricky for 5a but lots of gear. Uncomfortable hanging belay in the groove. Eszter clipped into one of the four pieces when she got there and just as she was ready to lead on the wire ripped out and she dropped down below me, fortunately not far enough to get a soaking. D’oh! Lesson not to clip into a single piece on a hanging belay, especially when it’s a bit of a directional nut... Anyway, after that excitement Eszter carried on up mostly dry rock and dispatched the crux with funky bridging. I opted for keeping both feet on the left wall to udge up into a handsfree rest and on to the jugs but had to cut loose after that as couldn’t bridge out far enough. Pretty spicy for the grade! I finished up the top pitch. All a bit insane really but not as insane as the harder routes in there!
with eszter
Crazy days! Soloed P1 and led through down and across P2 - a bit tricky for 5a but lots of gear. Uncomfortable hanging belay in the groove. Eszter clipped into one of the four pieces when she got there and just as she was ready to lead on the wire ripped out and she dropped down below me, fortunately not far enough to get a soaking. D’oh! Lesson not to clip into a single piece on a hanging belay, especially when it’s a bit of a directional nut... Anyway, after that excitement Eszter carried on up mostly dry rock and dispatched the crux with funky bridging. I opted for keeping both feet on the left wall to udge up into a handsfree rest and on to the jugs but had to cut loose after that as couldn’t bridge out far enough. Pretty spicy for the grade! I finished up the top pitch. All a bit insane really but not as insane as the harder routes in there!
with eszter
Hidden 22 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
steveb2006 14 May, 2018 AltLd dnf Quite an advenure especially as we had to reverse a lot of it. Crux pitch was sopping wet - couldnt see any peg or big holds. Got to within 3m of top of chockstone but no way. After reversing back to top of pitch 1 we finished up Mistaken Identity. One to come back to in drier conditions.
with Mick F
Quite an advenure especially as we had to reverse a lot of it. Crux pitch was sopping wet - couldnt see any peg or big holds. Got to within 3m of top of chockstone but no way. After reversing back to top of pitch 1 we finished up Mistaken Identity. One to come back to in drier conditions.
with Mick F
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Hidden 29 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
JBO 31 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
JendeHoxar 27 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 27 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S By far the craziest thing in the weirdest style I ever climbed! We unknowingly prepared for this route all summer or we would have set ourselves up for a mega epic - late start, no food or water, no headtorches and... 3 legs. Still-on-one-leg-Jenny seconded the traverse with an ab back rope after down-leading the 5m bit. I lead to the chock and she somehow managed to jumar 3 sides of a damp square, I didn't place much gear and she did the pitch twice tensioning/leading in reverse. Giant seals came almost within touching distance probably to witness the madness of climbing Flytrap with 3 legs. Topped out 15min before complete darkness. No ropes or ab line went for a dip-dip, everything went slickly, a rope-work masterclass :) Sport climbing - eat yer heart out!
with Jumar Jenny
By far the craziest thing in the weirdest style I ever climbed! We unknowingly prepared for this route all summer or we would have set ourselves up for a mega epic - late start, no food or water, no headtorches and... 3 legs. Still-on-one-leg-Jenny seconded the traverse with an ab back rope after down-leading the 5m bit. I lead to the chock and she somehow managed to jumar 3 sides of a damp square, I didn't place much gear and she did the pitch twice tensioning/leading in reverse. Giant seals came almost within touching distance probably to witness the madness of climbing Flytrap with 3 legs. Topped out 15min before complete darkness. No ropes or ab line went for a dip-dip, everything went slickly, a rope-work masterclass :) Sport climbing - eat yer heart out!
with Jumar Jenny
joedean ??, 2017 - The best E2 I have done. I don't think a grade conversion chart would work for this one.
The best E2 I have done. I don't think a grade conversion chart would work for this one.
neilh ??, 2017 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
masa-alpin 29 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S I lead P1 and P3, Phil did P2. We set off at 3pm and stupidly I didn't take a headtorch… Phil put on a head-torch during P2 (it was probably In the Next Room, rather than Flytrap; hard and scary with unsound rock), and passed it to me for seconding the pitch. I carried on leading the next pitch with the borrowed head-torch, followed by Phil without one. We topped out at 7pm.
I lead P1 and P3, Phil did P2. We set off at 3pm and stupidly I didn't take a headtorch… Phil put on a head-torch during P2 (it was probably In the Next Room, rather than Flytrap; hard and scary with unsound rock), and passed it to me for seconding the pitch. I carried on leading the next pitch with the borrowed head-torch, followed by Phil without one. We topped out at 7pm.
tim newton 4 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 4 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S P2 & 4. Lovely and dry, felt a bit undramatic!
P2 & 4. Lovely and dry, felt a bit undramatic!
Adam Booth 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd rpt Joe Brown’s 85th birthday today.
with John Roberts, morganator
Joe Brown’s 85th birthday today.
with John Roberts, morganator
Hidden 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd
morganator 26 Sep, 2015 AltLd
with JR
with JR
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2015 AltLd
Michael Allday 17 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S
Bruce Houston 17 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S Mega! What a climb! route was goping wet and covered in green slime! Plus Chinese water torture treatment on the stances....soaked! Still didn't detract from the quality of the climb with Good holds on crux pitch in a great position all the way to glory..
Mega! What a climb! route was goping wet and covered in green slime! Plus Chinese water torture treatment on the stances....soaked! Still didn't detract from the quality of the climb with Good holds on crux pitch in a great position all the way to glory..
alexjz 7 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S Brilliant route. The crux on P3 is on incredible and committing terrain, was proper gripped and had the guns on overdrive to get myself onto the chock stone!
with Sam Farmsworth
Brilliant route. The crux on P3 is on incredible and committing terrain, was proper gripped and had the guns on overdrive to get myself onto the chock stone!
with Sam Farmsworth
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Sardien 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd dog Woaaah that was something! Led P2&4. High tide so abbed into belay at the top of P1, then traversed a high line into the belay at the bottom of the groove - more like 5b. The dead seal pup bobbing along right below me was not helpful. Rich then went up the soaking wet groove and traverse, but ended up right next to me at the belay again when the in situ nut at the crux popped out! Made me a bit shaky but he did it all again and got through superwet moves amazingly. I ended up dangling a fair bit at the crux, but it's such an amazing position - I didn't really mind to hang there for a bit!
with nawface
Woaaah that was something! Led P2&4. High tide so abbed into belay at the top of P1, then traversed a high line into the belay at the bottom of the groove - more like 5b. The dead seal pup bobbing along right below me was not helpful. Rich then went up the soaking wet groove and traverse, but ended up right next to me at the belay again when the in situ nut at the crux popped out! Made me a bit shaky but he did it all again and got through superwet moves amazingly. I ended up dangling a fair bit at the crux, but it's such an amazing position - I didn't really mind to hang there for a bit!
with nawface
papashango 30 Jun, 2013 AltLd dnf Backed off continuing on to the 3rd pitch, dripping slime up the groove and bulging wall above on P3, gear looked thin and spaced :/ Reversed 2nd pitch and escaped up a VS. Will go back at low tide during a heatwave! Mega adventure even though we didn't finish.
with Simon
Backed off continuing on to the 3rd pitch, dripping slime up the groove and bulging wall above on P3, gear looked thin and spaced :/ Reversed 2nd pitch and escaped up a VS. Will go back at low tide during a heatwave! Mega adventure even though we didn't finish.
with Simon
Andrew Wilson 11 Aug, 2012 AltLd I led middle pitch. Route completely gripping. totally lived up to its name, it lures you in and you are right inside before you see the green dripping crux which you must conquer to escape the rising tide! Amazing position high up in the roof looking accross the high traverse to the chockstone. Photos do not do this route justice, you need to get in there and have a look, if you think you can get out again. . .
I led middle pitch. Route completely gripping. totally lived up to its name, it lures you in and you are right inside before you see the green dripping crux which you must conquer to escape the rising tide! Amazing position high up in the roof looking accross the high traverse to the chockstone. Photos do not do this route justice, you need to get in there and have a look, if you think you can get out again. . .
rustaldo 2 Jun, 2012 AltLd dog Super adventurous route! Kit lead the first 2 pitches in a oner, P1 as described in ground up guide is a joke! Nowhere near 12m and at 4a abit of a nonsense. The main pitch was very damp, everything was greasy, couldn't trust the footing at all! "jugs on the back of the chockstone" as mentioned in the guidebook did not materialize and resorted to a beached whale / grovelling / thrutching approach to get onto the chockstone. Would happily repeat this in drier conditions, a great adventure and route! Probably a 5c move to get onto the chockstone. 1 fall making that move -- pumped! Top tip: brush up on your hoisting drills before you go incase your second comes off moving onto the chockstone!
Super adventurous route! Kit lead the first 2 pitches in a oner, P1 as described in ground up guide is a joke! Nowhere near 12m and at 4a abit of a nonsense. The main pitch was very damp, everything was greasy, couldn't trust the footing at all! "jugs on the back of the chockstone" as mentioned in the guidebook did not materialize and resorted to a beached whale / grovelling / thrutching approach to get onto the chockstone. Would happily repeat this in drier conditions, a great adventure and route! Probably a 5c move to get onto the chockstone. 1 fall making that move -- pumped! Top tip: brush up on your hoisting drills before you go incase your second comes off moving onto the chockstone!
Hidden 2 Jun, 2012 AltLd
Hidden 7 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
dan-8990 6 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S
with AO
with AO
dan ely 27 Aug, 2011 AltLd dog crux is wet, loose and hard- thats my excuse for catching some airtime. sick route!!
with polly
crux is wet, loose and hard- thats my excuse for catching some airtime. sick route!!
with polly
Lawrie Brand 27 Jul, 2011 AltLd Cave was horribly wet, retreated by reversing the second pitch.. Fine effort on Pete's behalf having a look at the crux, looked grim to me..Ground up N. Wales rock had no mention of a bird ban.. Only one big chick above the crag!
with PeteH
Cave was horribly wet, retreated by reversing the second pitch.. Fine effort on Pete's behalf having a look at the crux, looked grim to me..Ground up N. Wales rock had no mention of a bird ban.. Only one big chick above the crag!
with PeteH
Hidden ?Jun, 2011 AltLd
Alex Mason 14 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S Phenomenally wild. Led P1 and P3. On first pitch I went right up to the height of the cave to a big ledge, contrary to the topo, but the description fit. The main pitch was pretty damp and needed to drop a loop and get more chalk. Really intense crux involving a proper cutloose on the chock. Memorable and hard for E2.
with Bubbles
Phenomenally wild. Led P1 and P3. On first pitch I went right up to the height of the cave to a big ledge, contrary to the topo, but the description fit. The main pitch was pretty damp and needed to drop a loop and get more chalk. Really intense crux involving a proper cutloose on the chock. Memorable and hard for E2.
with Bubbles
NeilGriffiths ?Jan, 2011 AltLd
with mux
with mux
NeilGriffiths ?Jan, 2011 AltLd
with mux
with mux
NeilGriffiths ?Jan, 2011 AltLd
with mux
with mux
Hidden ??, 2011 -
mux ??, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 -
soph 1 Jan, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Dan McManus
with Dan McManus
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Helena Robinson
with Helena Robinson
Neil McA 12 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Stan
with Stan
Hidden 26 Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
centurion05 18 Sep, 2008 2nd its harder than 5b, awesome route tho.
with chris thorne
its harder than 5b, awesome route tho.
with chris thorne
mux 15 Jun, 2008 -
Hidden ??, 2008 AltLd dog
Al Evans ??, 2008 -
Ben Wolstenholme 25 Oct, 2007 AltLd
with JR
with JR
Hidden 25 Oct, 2007 AltLd O/S
Ed Booth 29 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
Adam Booth 29 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
Will1 ?Jul, 2006 -
with Mike
with Mike
Mark Reeves ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Ian McNeill ??, 2006 -
Hidden 31 Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2005 AltLd
Gus 2 May, 2004 Lead O/S
with Rich Pickford
with Rich Pickford
NeilGriffiths ??, 2004 AltLd
with Dave Garry
with Dave Garry
Hidden ??, 2003 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Aug, 2001 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2001 -
Tom Briggs ??, 2001 -
sadams 1 May, 2000 Lead O/S
with Tom Briggs
with Tom Briggs
pauldrew ??, 1994 AltLd
Hidden 18 May, 1991 AltLd
andy gittins ??, 1985 -
Steve Lewis 14 Aug, 1978 AltLd O/S
with Paul Williams, sharpie
with Paul Williams, sharpie
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