40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Varied and interesting climbing on solid rock. Pitch 2 is at the top end of the grade. Start 9m to the right of the base of Finale Groove at a head-height overhang.
1) 5a, 18m. Arm up on big holds to get established above the lip of the overhang. Move right to a crack and take this to a small overhang. Step right and then back up left to another small overhang. Climb the short crack in the wall above to a large ledge at the fault-line and belay next to a boulder.
2) 5a, 20m. Step up off the boulder and move up 4m and then right to a depression. Traverse 2m left and move up to a jug in a pocket and a good medium size nut. Climb the fine, sustained wall and small corner directly above to a stable exit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A fine addition, instantly popular; but with spaced gear on the second pitch. Start 5 metres right of the crack of ‘B’ Line, just left of a crack in the wall above, below an obvious flake leading to the large faultline ledge.

1 18m 4c Pull over the overhang onto the wall on huge jugs and step right to the crack. Climb it, and then move right until below a small overhang. Pull over the overhang, left to a niche below a roof. Trend left to climb the steep flake to the faultline. good ledge belay with large block.( as for Sweet SA)

2 19m 5a Pull up and right over the bulge to gain an obvious large depression Traverse left for 2 metres around a bulge and move up past a pocket (good wire). climb up from this, slight groove, finish up small short corner to the top.

P Finclaire, S Lloyd, Ms T Burrows] 30/Jan/1997

Ticklists: Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, SW Climbs - Swanage, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes.

Flavio 13/Oct/17 2nd O/S
JendeHoxar 13/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Flavio
foostu4 04/Sep/17 Lead O/S
cdpuk 19/Aug/17 2nd O/S
RobScarisbrick 19/Aug/17 Lead
with cdpuk
Swan_Monk 14/Aug/17 2nd β
overbeyond 14/Aug/17 TR β
LJC 10/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

P2. Pretty serious, wouldn't argue with E1 5a taking into account the unprotected start, dubious rock and rubbish fiddly small gear on the top pitch.

with Andy
andycash 10/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Wouldn't class the top pitch as good quality solid rock!

with Luca
ian bryant 01/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Kevster 08/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
The Grist 21/Feb/17 2nd O/S
with Dan Metcalfe
manwithacam 21/Feb/17 Lead

Enjoyed very much, done as one pitch. Adventurous feel due to dubious looking rock and not much protection.

with Mark Grist
Ellis Bird ??/2017 AltLd O/S
cem 08/Oct/16 2nd rpt
Stroppy 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S

In a oner

RKirke 17/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Mike Weatherill 12/Sep/16 -
with Eddy
Andrew Sloan 03/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Led 1st pitch.

with Agnes
Hidden 03/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/16 2nd O/S
mjeffery 01/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Sophie Nunn 26/Jun/16 Lead rpt

In 1 pitch

with Sion, Andy J
mariannekhoo 29/May/16 AltLd dnf

Lead P1 clean but had to back off at the belay due to a large, aggressive seagull protecting a nest full of chicks at the belay boulder. There is a red DMM hex and DMM Wallnut 2 with snap gates attached for anyone brave enough to tackle that seagull!

Hidden 12/Mar/16 Lead rpt
Pero 20/Sep/15 2nd
cem 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Good route. Led both pitches: thought the second was easier than the first, but there you go.

Thinker01 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Lead P2

halfwaythere 05/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led easier first pitch Enjoyed cheeky start

with mark
TomRiddelsdell 28/Jun/15 AltLd β

Lead first pitch. Shane placed the first piece of gear before downclimbing when it started raining and we decided to switch pitches

islandlynx 28/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Led p2. Interesting route, good contrasting pitches. Route on the second half of p2 is not totally obvious, I went up on the right of the undercut jug. The mentioned jug in a pocket had a birds nest in, made placing gear tricky.

richardashe 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Russtygibbons 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
ASchwirtz 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/15 2nd O/S
mattprince 13/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
ollie1 25/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
pearson9596 21/Mar/15 2nd O/S
philhilo 16/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Even with the full triple rack, on a single, with 8 layers (4 coats) this felt stiff for the grade. Bottom pitch ace fun. Top pitch a bit squeezed in and not obvious and gear pretty scarce at crucial moments + loose in parts.

with Helen E
ian d f 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S

as one pitch

onlyfoddington 14/Mar/15 2nd O/S

Some pretty fun bits interspersed in some poorer bits.

with Michael, Ian
Shane Willis 06/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1, thought the moves were awesome! Si found the second pitch difficult to read and found little in the way of good gear.

Cheese Monkey 04/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Fantastic. led p2 which was spectacular in particular, solid rock on the meat of it and great pumpy climbing, loads of gear...

with Rich R
joedoherty 19/Nov/14 AltLd O/S

Fantastic first pitch!

with Anna Gibson
elfka 19/Nov/14 2nd
with Joe Doherty
brian watson 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Steve Newman
Hidden 16/Sep/14 AltLd
mdjb 03/Aug/14 -
duncan 20/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Decent route, a bit scruffy. One star.

rustaldo 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Somewhat meh. First pitch was fun and juggy, think we got a bit lost on P2, rock was a bit dodgy.

with Alex
Alex Hallam 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Buzz, buzz, buzz lightyear to the rescue! If I were still a boy scout I would have definitely earned my seagull herding badge. Lucked out and got the first pitch but then sat in excrement for the next 20mins so on balance it was fine.

Julian Prieto 17/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1

Monkey_Alan 17/May/14 2nd rpt
CurlyStevo 16/Mar/14 AltLd

I lead pitch 1, its has a tricky crux for HVS 5a but its got great gear where it matters a clean fall out zone and is quite short lived. Pitch 2 doesn't have a single move as hard as pitch 1 but it really goes on and on and isn't as juggy / positive as many ruckle routes, could just be E1 IMO.

with clipskipper
AlexD 15/Mar/14 AltLd rpt
Monkey_Alan 15/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

Hidden 11/Jan/14 2nd
Bob M 11/Jan/14 2nd

Sustained interest throughout. Quite runout on pitch 2 - glad to be on the blunt end.

with Pete Finklaire, Andy Blakely
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden 11/Dec/13 Lead O/S
Dave Mahon 29/Oct/13 Lead O/S

P1 only.

with Matt Sumpster
waldenmatt 29/Oct/13 2nd

2nd both pitches, 1 rest for removing stuck wire.

Hidden 03/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Kerm ?/Sep/13 AltLd
LukeyG 25/Jun/13 Lead
Mark Warnett ?/Jun/13 Lead O/S

pretty good, not entirely obvious line on 2nd pitch

mike.moss 08/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
Kirill 08/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

Led P2

Helen Gibson 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

led p.1, which is considerably easier than p.2 !

with Alice
Hidden 05/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/12 Lead
dan gibson 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
with andrew porter
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
paultaylor 02/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
will moy 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with paul taylor
Graham Westbrook 22/May/12 AltLd O/S
wi11 22/May/12 AltLd O/S


GarethHall 13/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch

paddygoodwinlondon 13/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Hall
Sophie Nunn 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd pitch, good route!

with Alex
AlexD 26/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Sophie
clipskipper 15/May/11 AltLd O/S

Lead P2. Good route - worth the trip.

with Ed Babington
Ed Babs 15/May/11 AltLd O/S


climbtim 08/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Top pitch pushed me hard, but a good lead drained at the top. Beware the large loose boulder on the belay ledge and a couple of loose blocks half way up the second pitch. A typical Ruckle experience which deserves to be in the rockfax/cc guide

Hidden 08/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Marti999 09/Dec/10 Lead O/S

very good on excellent rock.

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 31
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 26
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set