UKC

Marked incorrectly in the SMC Cairngorms Guide and is graded V,5 by the left-hand Icicle or V,6 climbing the right-hand icicle. This route has also been named as K9 Direct but is correctly named Window gully.

ClimberDateStyle
gregor 20/Feb -
MrRiley 18/Feb AltLd O/S

Great route in great weather and good conditions. Variable ice but mostly good, crux second pitch is serious though but not too hard. Deviated to climb the RH upper icefall of K9 which was excellent.

with joe dobson, Little AndyH
Little AndyH 18/Feb AltLd
joe.91 18/Feb AltLd O/S

A big surprise, wasn’t expecting a 250/300m 8 pitch ice route! Combined with the RH icefall if K9. Ice if variable quality but good where you wanted, ie on the steep bits.

Naomi Havercroft 17/Feb -
Hidden 16/Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Feb AltLd
freudy_love 12/Feb AltLd O/S

Got confused and thought we were on Central. Only figured out a week later! ????

with Dave Douglas
Dave Douglas 12/Feb AltLd O/S

Thought we were on central gully, which is why my original entry was: 'Felt stiff for III. Done easier IV’s. Lovely weather to start, full Scottish to finish. Upward spindrift. Walked off with head torch and goggles.'

mike.moss 20/Jan AltLd
with Kirill
Hidden 20/Jan AltLd
guitarshane 13/Jan AltLd dnf

Decent ice on first pitch but it got really crap as I got closer to the main ice fall. Hollow ice and collapsing foot placements forced a leftward retreat to the ridge. Looks great from below but on closer inspection the curtain of ice looks a bit sugary so made our way up to the K-9 icefall.

with Graham Lorimer
Hidden 11/Jan 2nd dnf
mountain musher ??/2016 -
Hidden 17/Jan/15 AltLd
1202alarm 04/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Melting! backed off after one pitch...

Hidden 01/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Monster 17/Feb/14 2nd O/S

Epic mountain day. Parked at top car park then gimped in. (Some debate over whether we should have parked at Sugar Bowl.) 2 crux sections, 1st was a mixed teeter across a "thin" upward trending ledge from left to right with nothing for the axes then the 2nd was, in my case, a very messy & noisy fight up a slightly overhanging waterfall. Seb led with far more elegance than I seconded (Dam him!) Needed torches for the last few pitches then waited at the top for the other 5 in the party and yo moped back. Bloody good day!

with Seb Roschlau, Will Beaumont
j.buckley87 17/Feb/14 Lead O/S
jon59 14/Feb/14 -

Cruddy ice on first pitch and belay hard to find, good ice over the curtain with good conditions above.

annep 12/Feb/14 AltLd
LP 04/Jan/14 2nd dog

First time on ice. Climbed with absolutely no style, clue or hope - but got to the top. Guide gave it 4 v but I have nothing to compare it to yet - it was just sunnier than yesterday so felt pleasant.

Spudt 09/Feb/13 2nd O/S

Good soft ice. Straight up the righthand free hanging ice sheet. Short steep crux. Brilliant! Worth several stars.

Glyn 07/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Amazing climb, worthy of stars. Climbed ice up to the steep curtain then climbed along between the rock and the ice before breaking back out onto the ice and climbing to the top. Quality adventure

with Tom Skelhon
tskelhon 07/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with glyn hudson, chris davis
PAJames ??/2011 -
joeydurkin 25/Dec/10 Lead

Fantastic steep ice. Unlike anything I've seen in Scotland. Ab'd off from cave behind the curtain and ice pillar due to water pouring down next pitch. Route may have been k9.

with Liz F, Steve Campball
Hidden ??/2001 -
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Voting
High VI
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Style of ascent
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