UKC

Rockfax Description
Climb up the middle of the wall via a large tufa and some small finger pockets. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Take the centre of the wall past a large tufa and some small pockets

Richard Davies 2009.

Feedback

User Date Notes
climberchristy 11 Feb Show βeta
βeta: When I redpointed this 2 days ago there was a very loose block above the crux section. Someone had put a cross on it with finger tape. However, if that finger tape came away, an onsight ascensionist would naturally 'throw one on' for the obvious spiky jug unaware that this was a horrible accident waiting to happen - the block which is about 2 feet across would land right where your belayer would naturally stand. So, today, 11.2.24, I have removed said block. This has not made the route any harder or easier. There is still an obvious jug to go for as before but now it is a solid one. The reason I'm posting this is that there is a fair bit of dirt and dust left on the juggy holds. I did my best to clean the majority away but I only had a small brush. TBH if you can climb the crux on this route I'm confident that you'd hold this jug even dirty. However, I thought it only fair to warn potential onsighters - maybe send your mate up first to clean it. If you're redpointing you'll clean it off anyhow.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: When I redpointed this 2 days ago there was a very loose block above the crux section. Someone had put a cross on it with finger tape. However, if that finger tape came away, an onsight ascensionist would naturally 'throw one on' for the obvious spiky jug unaware that this was a horrible accident waiting to happen - the block which is about 2 feet across would land right where your belayer would naturally stand. So, today, 11.2.24, I have removed said block. This has not made the route any harder or easier. There is still an obvious jug to go for as before but now it is a solid one. The reason I'm posting this is that there is a fair bit of dirt and dust left on the juggy holds. I did my best to clean the majority away but I only had a small brush. TBH if you can climb the crux on this route I'm confident that you'd hold this jug even dirty. However, I thought it only fair to warn potential onsighters - maybe send your mate up first to clean it. If you're redpointing you'll clean it off anyhow.

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Voting
High 7c+
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High 7b
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Votes cast 19
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ragnor Lothbrok

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Sierra de Toix)

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