Langcliffe is regularly patrolled by YDNPA wardens and conservation volunteers. The quarry area is also designated as a Scheduled Monument under the Ancient Monuments and Archaeological Areas Act 1979 and English Heritage consider that any further drilling to place bolts may constitute a criminal offence unless consent is gained via them from the Secretary of State.
Skyline Buttress is in private ownership and no formal access agreement is in place. Negotiations have failed to resolve the issue with the landowner of this buttress, who has occasionally asked climbers to leave.
Dates: 1 March to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 Update - Both Peregrines and Ravens have been observed at the crag. It's not certain yet whether they are nesting. Restrictions will remain in place for now.
Rockfax Description
Yorkshire's longest sport climb. Double ropes required for the abseil descent.1) 6b+, 45m. Climb Walking the Dog and continue to a belay on a ledge a little higher.2) 15m. Follow easy ledges up and rightwards to a belay behind trees in a corner.3) 6b+, 30m. Climb a small pillar on the right to an overhang and go over it to a slab. Some intricate climbing leads to easier ground and a lower-off.Descent - Abseil back down to the belay at the start of pitch 3 and then abseil straight down to the quarry floor with care - about 50m. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A contender for the longest sport route in Yorkshire! It is also necessary to have an extra rope (50m) to abseil after the ascent - or better still, climb on double ropes.
1. 50m (F6b+) As for Walking the Dog but then continue to a higher belay on a grassy ledge.
2. 15m Follow easy ledges across to the right with a short step to a belay behind trees in a corner. A couple of slings (for trees) or nuts (rock 4, 5, and a 'chunky' hex) could be useful!
3. 25m (F6b+) Step right and climb the short pillar to a small overhang. A little care is needed. Pull over onto the slab above on good rock and hidden holds. It now becomes steeper and more problematic, look for the undercut left of the bolts, which allows good holds to be reached. Easier but pleasant climbing leads to a lower-off high up at the top of the quarry. Lower back down to the belay.
Abseil from the belay at the start of pitch 3, with care, straight down to quarry floor. About 40m...a 70m rope, doubled, doesn't do it!
*** Recent reports are that the top pitch is loose and vegetated. It also sports a dangerous block below the belay.
Glyn Edwards, Nigel Baker Jul/2009.
All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales) , Nigel Baker Ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Fakey Rocks | 16 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: To get to the higher belay above WTD, belay for Moonwalk P2 traverse, there's no intermediate bolts for 5m, until you reach that higher belay. It's fairly easy but feels insecure with at least one grassy ledge. P3 looks good on approaching the quarry but not really from the top of WTD...we didn’t fancy it so abbed off WTD's top belay ( not p2 belay as pulling ropes could get tangled in trees) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: To get to the higher belay above WTD, belay for Moonwalk P2 traverse, there's no intermediate bolts for 5m, until you reach that higher belay. It's fairly easy but feels insecure with at least one grassy ledge. P3 looks good on approaching the quarry but not really from the top of WTD...we didn’t fancy it so abbed off WTD's top belay ( not p2 belay as pulling ropes could get tangled in trees) |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: 6b+ ***
(Stony Bank (Stoney Bank))