Rockfax Description
Exhilarating but bold climbing, especially on the second pitch. Originally it started to the left but it is best to use ZIg Zag.
1) 5a, 25m. Follow the rampline above the tree then move up right and back left to a slim groove. Follow this to a traverse right to the stance shared with Overhanging Bastion.
2) 5a, 40m. A poorly protected pitch. Climb the wall above the slab of Zig Zag past a spike to a vegetated ledge. Move left to the arete and climb its left-hand side until moves back right around the arete gain a sloping ledge. Continue to meet the slab of Zig Zag and follow this to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An exciting route based around the right rib of the buttress. The E2 5a grade is evocatively accurate: steady climbing but steep, exposed, and very bold in places.
P1. Climb a mossy slab diagonally rightwards to the ramp of ZigZag, move up and right to a tricky shallow groove and follow this up and right to the ash tree belay. Or, cleaner, more direct, and better, climb the cracked block as for OB, then climb boldly up and left to gain the shallow groove.
P2. Climb the wall right and up from the belay to the edge of a grassy ledge (crucial large cam). Swing around the arete and climb boldly to some hollow spikes, then boldly back right to the rib, to pop out into an easier shallow scoop. Climb this rightwards to the ramp, or, better, place the obvious wire (first bomber gear on the pitch!), step down and climb the neat left wall to the ramp. Finish up the easy wall above or the ramp itself.

Ticklists

UK Lonely Leads

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 14 May AltLd
Dave Cundy ?? AltLd O/S
with Dave Wood
with Dave Wood
Lamb 15 May, 2015 AltLd O/S Came in from right hand side (cleaner rock), trending left to the spike and up into the cracked groove for P1, nice pitch, Matt P2.
with Matthew Thompson
Came in from right hand side (cleaner rock), trending left to the spike and up into the cracked groove for P1, nice pitch, Matt P2.
with Matthew Thompson
John Kelly 16 May, 2014 AltLd wandered about a bit looking for the new route Martin led hard pitches
with MB
wandered about a bit looking for the new route Martin led hard pitches
with MB
uphillnow ??, 2014 -
Hidden 10 Aug, 2013 Lead
tmawer 25 May, 2011 AltLd rpt Led pitch one. Pitch 2 serious.
with Jaime Robertson
Led pitch one. Pitch 2 serious.
with Jaime Robertson
Robin Warden 30 Apr, 2011 2nd Seconded first pitch, finished on Overhanging Bastion, as wind prevented completion of Agony.
with rob weston
Seconded first pitch, finished on Overhanging Bastion, as wind prevented completion of Agony.
with rob weston
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Arty ??, 2011 -
with julie gove
with julie gove
tomhull 12 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Simon Platt
with Simon Platt
cosmicray ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Graham Iles 22 Aug, 2007 Lead
Hidden 13 Aug, 2006 Lead
jimdanson 7 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
with Two Fish Bob
with Two Fish Bob
Justin Tracey ??, 2006 Lead
Pete Graham ??, 2006 AltLd
with Ben Smith
with Ben Smith
jim robertson ??, 2006 -
Graham Iles 24 Sep, 2005 Solo
jgordon75 ??, 2005 Lead O/S
with Mark Nottridge
with Mark Nottridge
John Kettle ??, 2005 Lead
Hidden 28 Apr, 2004 Lead
John Pickles 28 Apr, 2004 2nd
with 8848
with 8848
Shaw Brown 6 Sep, 2003 AltLd
with David Jones
with David Jones
Chris Reid ?Aug, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Sep, 2000 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??, 1999 Lead O/S
with Karen Ghiselli
with Karen Ghiselli
pasbury ??, 1998 AltLd Led P2 with hangover after too many OPs. Very bold but good holds. HVS in guide at the time!!
Led P2 with hangover after too many OPs. Very bold but good holds. HVS in guide at the time!!
neilh 20 Jul, 1997 Lead
with dave croker
with dave croker
phardman 26 May, 1997 Lead
Dave Musgrove Jnr 21 Sep, 1996 AltLd
with Nick Ashton
with Nick Ashton
rob.grafton 7 Jul, 1996 Lead
with Bruce
with Bruce
BenTiffin 2 Apr, 1996 - First E1
with Ellen Wolfenden
First E1
with Ellen Wolfenden
Route Adjuster 1 Jun, 1994 2nd O/S Did with Neil, early 90's
with Neil
Did with Neil, early 90's
with Neil
Hidden ??, 1993 Lead
Narked4fun 23 Aug, 1992 Lead
with Colin Binks
with Colin Binks
MartinLister 6 Jul, 1992 2nd
with Roy Barr
with Roy Barr
Mick King 18 May, 1992 Lead
with Simon Walsh
with Simon Walsh
nuts and bolts ?Aug, 1990 AltLd O/S
Tom V 26 Jun, 1990 AltLd
with Glenn Watson
with Glenn Watson
mikej 25 Jun, 1990 AltLd
with Mike Byles
with Mike Byles
FATBOYFAT ??, 1990 Lead O/S Got lost on top section
with Steve Smith
Got lost on top section
with Steve Smith
ewar woowar ??, 1990 Lead
Hammy 15 Jun, 1989 AltLd
with Ian Barker
with Ian Barker
Andy Say 15 Apr, 1989 Lead
Hidden 6 Apr, 1988 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1988 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??, 1988 Lead
biggianthead 13 Sep, 1987 - Pitch 2 is death
with HT
Pitch 2 is death
with HT
Hidden ??, 1986 AltLd
Steve Crowe 29 Jun, 1985 AltLd O/S Five classics on one great day!
Five classics on one great day!
Hammy 8 Jun, 1985 Lead
with Pete Smith
with Pete Smith
Brian Wilderspin 28 Apr, 1985 -
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
Gordon Stainforth 1 Sep, 1984 2nd
with David BA Jones
with David BA Jones
Neil McA 19 Aug, 1983 2nd O/S
with Greasy Dave
with Greasy Dave
Bob 9 Apr, 1983 Lead O/S
with A Wiggans
with A Wiggans
tapley 17 Apr, 1982 Lead
with Chris Seymour
with Chris Seymour
Nic Robinson 25 Jul, 1981 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench 18 Jul, 1981 AltLd O/S 2,L.
with Ian Milne
2,L.
with Ian Milne
nickprior ?Jun, 1981 Lead Same day as NCE
with Pete
Same day as NCE
with Pete
Hammy 26 Mar, 1981 2nd
with Fai Kwong
with Fai Kwong
Dave Musgrove 9 Nov, 1980 -
andybirtwistle 5 Oct, 1980 Lead
with Ian Kyle
with Ian Kyle
Mike C 24 Jun, 1980 2nd
Brian Wilderspin 24 Jun, 1980 Lead
with Mike C
with Mike C
Bruce Kerr 10 May, 1980 Lead
with Dave Page
with Dave Page
duncan ?May, 1979 AltLd O/S
Mark Kemball 21 May, 1978 Lead
with Richard Lang
with Richard Lang
Hidden ??, 1978 AltLd
RichardMc 14 Aug, 1977 Lead O/S
with Dave Langmead
with Dave Langmead
Martin Bennett 12 Jun, 1977 -
with Dot Wood, JD
with Dot Wood, JD
Hidden 4 Jun, 1977 Lead
Hidden 6 Mar, 1977 Lead
Hidden 6 Mar, 1977 2nd
Mike Owen 29 Jul, 1976 AltLd O/S
with Pete White
with Pete White
Hidden 27 May, 1976 AltLd
Hidden ?May, 1976 -
Falko 17 Jan, 1976 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lancashire
with Howard Lancashire
Sean Kelly ?Oct, 1974 AltLd
with Dudley Moore
with Dudley Moore
greenbuoy 19 Aug, 1974 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??, 1974 AltLd
with Geoff Leach
with Geoff Leach
Rick51 27 Aug, 1973 AltLd
Martin Bennett 28 Aug, 1972 -
with RA
with RA
Seymore Butt ??, 1970 AltLd
with Mick Briggs
with Mick Briggs
jcw 22 Sep, 1969 - I had done it before
with Gordon McNair
I had done it before
with Gordon McNair
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 7
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set