UKC

400m. A long climb of 400m + if climbed to the end with the crix in the first 4 pitches. The first can I believe be bypassed by climbing higher up the base gully and then traversing to the base of the Pillar. We took a direct line which was only slightly easier than the crux. The Pillar itselkf is large and I'd have thought usually secure. Above this there is another steep pitch before giving way to WI III ground for the rest of the route - I lost count of the pitches. Apparently there is fixed gear to retreat but we never found any and the ice was too fragile to abseil from. The upper pitches are in the sun so be careful and maybe pick a cooler day with less sun. An absolutely mammoth expedition.

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High WI-6
Mid WI-6
Low WI-6
High WI-5+
Mid WI-5+
Low WI-5+
High WI-5
Mid WI-5
Low WI-5
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Route of Interest
Pilat

Grade: WI-5+ ***
(Val Gardena)

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