12m. A bold eliminate just left of Halfway to Kansas. Holds and runners in the wide crack of that route are prohibited. Start a metre left of the wide crack and climb directly up the slab to reach horizontal cracks at 7m (the first gear). Continue in the same line for a further 5m to a sturdy sapling. Abseil descent.

B Mullan (solo) 14/Mar/2011

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Solo Circuit

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UserDateNotes
Paulos87 15 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Rock is pretty flakey before the gear
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βeta: Rock is pretty flakey before the gear
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Paulos87 6 Oct Lead O/S
jopayne1988 12 Jul Lead
eel 12 Jul Lead O/S
with Jo P
with Jo P
OliverM 6 Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jun Solo O/S
samparsons 17 Jun Solo rpt
Offwego 30 May Solo RP Holds/areas of the climb are turning to something akin to granulated sugar...
Holds/areas of the climb are turning to something akin to granulated sugar...
Clarebear1981 30 May 2nd
Gavdee1 30 May Lead RP
with Tony Saxophoney
with Tony Saxophoney
reece.robinson 30 May Lead O/S
with Tony Saxophony, Clarebear1981, Gavdee1
with Tony Saxophony, Clarebear1981, Gavdee1
ape1980 28 May TR O/S
with Offwego
with Offwego
Offwego 28 May TR O/S
with ape1980
with ape1980
Offwego 28 May TR rpt
with ape1980
with ape1980
Echna 25 May Lead rpt
with TNrOne
with TNrOne
AlexBclimbing 23 Apr Solo O/S
with P.Tully
with P.Tully
davehope 22 Apr 2nd
Steve Webster 22 Apr Lead O/S
Sam O'Rourke 14 Apr Solo rpt
ARiches 13 Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 13 Apr Lead O/S
P.Tully 6 Apr Lead O/S fuck all gear, more suited to a solo
fuck all gear, more suited to a solo
abilegge 23 Mar Lead RP First E2 lead! Top roped it first and then decided to give leading it a go. A satisfying tick.
with ARiches
First E2 lead! Top roped it first and then decided to give leading it a go. A satisfying tick.
with ARiches
ARiches 23 Mar Lead RP
P.Tully ?? Solo
P.Tully ?? Solo
Jim blackford 17 Sep, 2018 Solo O/S This is worth a star. It's much easier after the gear break so just solo it. Mid/high e1
This is worth a star. It's much easier after the gear break so just solo it. Mid/high e1
Adam Perrett 19 May, 2018 TR O/S
with Sarah Perrett, johnl
with Sarah Perrett, johnl
johnl 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett
with Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett
Hidden 7 May, 2018 Lead O/S
crater 7 May, 2018 2nd rpt
with mike
with mike
Ben_Gilbert96 1 Aug, 2017 TR O/S Top roped after james had abseiled off. found it very straight forward but would have felt harder without the rope. need to go back for the solo
Top roped after james had abseiled off. found it very straight forward but would have felt harder without the rope. need to go back for the solo
Kayan 1 Aug, 2017 Solo O/S
haribotheclimber 8 Jul, 2017 TR rpt Did this last year and fell just before the break to the ground, tried it on top ropw and soon realised I needed to brush up on my slad climbing techniques
Did this last year and fell just before the break to the ground, tried it on top ropw and soon realised I needed to brush up on my slad climbing techniques
just one more 21 Jun, 2017 Lead rpt
with rich h, Max B
with rich h, Max B
Bob M 5 Oct, 2016 2nd
scott titt 5 Oct, 2016 2nd
samparsons 6 Aug, 2016 Lead β
pymn nice but dim 6 Aug, 2016 Solo O/S Climbed hands free
Climbed hands free
just one more 19 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Bold,but steady
with rich h, Max B
Bold,but steady
with rich h, Max B
Hidden 7 May, 2016 TR O/S
Hidden 7 May, 2016 Lead rpt
afterthesend 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
afterthesend 30 Apr, 2016 Solo rpt
Hidden 29 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 29 Apr, 2016 Lead rpt
JamesRich 17 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
with BUMC
with BUMC
Lukemeehan 13 Apr, 2016 Solo O/S
Hidden 3 Apr, 2016 Solo
petegunn 3 Apr, 2016 Solo
elewis96 30 Mar, 2016 2nd O/S
Sam O'Rourke 30 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
Laurence20 21 Mar, 2016 Solo O/S
acer2012 21 Jul, 2015 Solo β
with degibbs
with degibbs
degibbs 20 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Basically a highball boulder problem
with George Bridgewater
Basically a highball boulder problem
with George Bridgewater
Mayaculpa 18 Jul, 2015 2nd
with Michael H
with Michael H
Hidden 18 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Steve Woollard 23 Jun, 2015 TR
with crater
with crater
crater 23 Jun, 2015 TR O/S
with steve
with steve
FerClimbs 30 Apr, 2015 TR O/S I did it by mistake because I was doing Hallway to Kansas but when I was close to the tree I realised I have left my cams and hexes to I set up a top rope in the tree and abseil down. Then when I got back to the wall I climbed this one just to do something different.
I did it by mistake because I was doing Hallway to Kansas but when I was close to the tree I realised I have left my cams and hexes to I set up a top rope in the tree and abseil down. Then when I got back to the wall I climbed this one just to do something different.
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 2nd rpt
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 Lead
Hidden 18 Apr, 2015 2nd rpt
Hidden 15 Apr, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 15 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
Matt Amos 6 Apr, 2015 TR O/S
Echna 21 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with mnyk
with mnyk
Hidden 21 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Aug, 2014 Sent rpt
leland stamper 24 Aug, 2014 TR RP Hmmm
with Chris Bonner, deepstar
Hmmm
with Chris Bonner, deepstar
riddle 12 Jul, 2014 Solo O/S cheeky climb whilst waiting for Tony
cheeky climb whilst waiting for Tony
Tom Harper 19 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S very bold climbing and only found 2 gear placements, the 2nd of which was a size 3 nut which only went in halfway. very nice route but not for the faint hearted.
very bold climbing and only found 2 gear placements, the 2nd of which was a size 3 nut which only went in halfway. very nice route but not for the faint hearted.
Wildstyle 12 Jun, 2014 Solo dnf
davenev 15 May, 2014 Lead RP
drgrange 15 May, 2014 2nd O/S
with davenev
with davenev
winter hill1 12 May, 2014 Lead wandered off slightly for one good piece of protection....oh well
with amanda morgan
wandered off slightly for one good piece of protection....oh well
with amanda morgan
Wildstyle 19 Mar, 2014 2nd O/S
madguernseyboy 19 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S My First ever E2 lead. Most chuffed
My First ever E2 lead. Most chuffed
sheelba 15 Mar, 2014 TR
bradholmes 8 Mar, 2014 TR
with cbonner
with cbonner
Hidden 8 Mar, 2014 TR RP
riddle 14 Sep, 2013 Solo O/S
zadurrani 14 Sep, 2013 Solo
with riddle
with riddle
Neil Gay 1 Aug, 2013 TR rpt
with Emily Gay, Al Gay
with Emily Gay, Al Gay
Stuart William 28 Jul, 2013 Solo dnf Had a good look then bottled it and downclimbed a few moves to step right and use the wide crack for my right hand. Did 2nd pitch of Halfway to Kansas to get off the ledge.
Had a good look then bottled it and downclimbed a few moves to step right and use the wide crack for my right hand. Did 2nd pitch of Halfway to Kansas to get off the ledge.
Neil Gay 18 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S One piece of gear in break only, could've done with some micros. Exciting!
with Al Gay
One piece of gear in break only, could've done with some micros. Exciting!
with Al Gay
Hidden 21 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
rustyfishhook 25 May, 2013 TR O/S
gjh 25 May, 2013 TR RP Tried the lead but bottled it and put a side runner in to the left.
Tried the lead but bottled it and put a side runner in to the left.
bpmclimb 15 Apr, 2013 TR rpt
with Shunt
with Shunt
Hidden 18 Mar, 2013 TR O/S
rustyfishhook ??, 2013 TR O/S
Mr-Cowdrey 8 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S only bothered to place one micro above the break, moves were thin and very bold, good route. Possibly E3 5b? As a fall before the gear could be quite serious.
with chris ridgers
only bothered to place one micro above the break, moves were thin and very bold, good route. Possibly E3 5b? As a fall before the gear could be quite serious.
with chris ridgers
Hidden 8 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK 12 Aug, 2012 TR RP thin
with Mr Shunt
thin
with Mr Shunt
upontop 22 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with Sophie
with Sophie
bpmclimb 19 Jul, 2012 TR rpt
with Shunt
with Shunt
bpmclimb 18 Jun, 2012 TR rpt
with Shunt
with Shunt
bpmclimb 22 Aug, 2011 Lead rpt Got quite nervous on this. Doesn't look much from the ground, but very committing.
Got quite nervous on this. Doesn't look much from the ground, but very committing.
Huntlyfiddler 22 Aug, 2011 2nd
stuntsbyjon 27 Jun, 2011 Lead β
bpmclimb 6 Apr, 2011 TR rpt Measured at 12m; doesn't look it , though. E2 5b.
with Shunt
Measured at 12m; doesn't look it , though. E2 5b.
with Shunt
bpmclimb 19 Mar, 2011 2nd rpt Seemed easier. Perhaps E2 5b
Seemed easier. Perhaps E2 5b
guy xavier percival 19 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S
with Brian
with Brian
Huntlyfiddler 19 Mar, 2011 Lead
bpmclimb 14 Mar, 2011 Solo RP First ascent, after cleaning and shunting. Particularly thin 5c crux moves to reach the first gear at 7 metres, so I thought E3 was justified. On the other hand it could be E2 5b, and I'm just being a wimp.
First ascent, after cleaning and shunting. Particularly thin 5c crux moves to reach the first gear at 7 metres, so I thought E3 was justified. On the other hand it could be E2 5b, and I'm just being a wimp.
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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 11
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Soloed
Followed
Bouldered
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set