700m, 25 pitches.

Rockfax Description
III, 650m. One of the best granite routes in Chamonix, this should be on every ED climbers' list. There are some bolts on the bolder sections and the belays are bolted, but take a full rack including some large cams.
1) 5c. A thin crack onto a ledge.
2) 6a+. Traverse right across a slab and then under a roof.
3) 5c. Climb a corner and follow it rightwards to a ledge.
4) 6a. Traverse right to a flake then climb this and step right.
5) 6c. Cross the slab rightwards and then go over easy ground to reach the foot of a chimney. This pitch can be circumnavigated by climbing a short chimney above the belay and then traversing higher up on the slab. This option is 5c.
6) 5b. Climb the chimney then go rightwards up a slab.
7) 6a. Head up the superb crack above the belay.
8) 6a+. Climb the slab to the right then exit into a crack on the right. At the top of this, follow easy ground to a belay.
9) 4c. Traverse 20m right, heading towards a large slab.
10) 6b. Climb the slab, initially going left then coming back right.
11) 6a. Follow bolts right across a slab then go up a chimney to reach easy ground which leads to the foot of a huge corner.
12) 6b+. Follow the corner via some staggeringly good climbing.
13) 6b. Continue up the corner and the slab above. From the top of this, abseil eastwards down to a long ledge.
14) 6a+. Climb a short corner then move right to a crack which leads to easier, broken ground.
15) 4b. Cross ledges rightwards to the foot of a huge corner.
16) 6b+. Climb the superb corner.
17) 6c. More of the same, just harder!
18) 6a. Leave the corner for a series of cracks on the right.
19) 6b. Go up a slab on the left and then up a corner on the right.
20) 6c. Climb the crack straight above the belay then follow a ramp system out right.
21) 6a+. Follow the super-featured slab above the belay ledge to a terrace then stay on the ridge crest to a terrace.
From here, follow the Voie normale (République) from section 6 onwards.
Descent - Abseil down the final pitch of the Voie Normale (République) and then scramble across the broken ledge that separates the summit slab from the top of the previous technical pitch. From here, make an extremely exposed abseil from a bolted belay to reach the ledge on section with the 'obélisk' on. From here, descend the Voie Normale (République). There are abseil anchors of varying quality all the way down and a combination of abseiling and downclimbing is the most efficient way of descending the moderate ground that makes up the bulk of this route. Abseil the chimney with the jammed block then scramble down 30m further to reach a bolted abseil anchor. Four abseils from bolted anchors (the last two of which are part of République Bananière) lead down to the glacier. Following this line is easier than descending all the way back to the start of Voie Normale (République)
It is possible, but awkward, to abseil République Bananière. To do this, follow the descent described above as far as the obélisk and then traverse south to reach the top of pitch 21. From here, abseil down the route to the foot of pitch 16 and cross the ledge to the top of pitch 15. Instead of abseiling from here, scramble up a short, narrow ridge (4b) to a single-bolt anchor and make a 40m abseil to reach the top of pitch 14. Follow the route down from here on. Many of the abseils are long, diagonal and somewhat awkward so take your time and manage your ropes carefully. © Rockfax

Michel Piola, Vincent Sprungli 02/Aug/2004

Ticklists

Euro Alpine Rock, Alpine Dreamz

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
timozheng 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Fellover 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Excellent.
Excellent.
Paul Collins 31 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Luke
with Luke
Hidden 31 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Andy Moles 29 Aug, 2017 AltLd I was pretty intimidated by this after doing Pedro Polar but thankfully Piola's grading has kept pace with the '+ grade per decade' principle. A bit wandering and arbitrary lower down, then the big corner pitches and the summit are amazing. Great long day out, 10hrs for the route then a tedious descent of Voie Normale.
with ferdia
I was pretty intimidated by this after doing Pedro Polar but thankfully Piola's grading has kept pace with the '+ grade per decade' principle. A bit wandering and arbitrary lower down, then the big corner pitches and the summit are amazing. Great long day out, 10hrs for the route then a tedious descent of Voie Normale.
with ferdia
ferdia 29 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Including top aid pitch free, shared with the voie normale. This is not too bad for 6c plus. Strange line for a mountain route, with some eliminate face climbing lower down which we didnt bother with. The first 14 pitches seem to be to get to the main event. Once in the corner systems they are outstanding. Primo badger territory. Led the amazing 6b plus corner pitch and second 6c. Nothing too hard but a long day!
Including top aid pitch free, shared with the voie normale. This is not too bad for 6c plus. Strange line for a mountain route, with some eliminate face climbing lower down which we didnt bother with. The first 14 pitches seem to be to get to the main event. Once in the corner systems they are outstanding. Primo badger territory. Led the amazing 6b plus corner pitch and second 6c. Nothing too hard but a long day!
Hidden 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 5 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Jul, 2017 AltLd
lukas_s 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd Long day out - 11h to the top and 5h for the descent. We abseiled down the route, which is a pain in the ass. Great climbing from Bernie, and some amazing pitches. The snowfield was rather scary and cost a lot of time. If you get the rope stuck in the wrong place or hurt yourself in the upper part, it gets difficult...
Long day out - 11h to the top and 5h for the descent. We abseiled down the route, which is a pain in the ass. Great climbing from Bernie, and some amazing pitches. The snowfield was rather scary and cost a lot of time. If you get the rope stuck in the wrong place or hurt yourself in the upper part, it gets difficult...
Bernie L 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S climbed everything free appart from sitting on second to remove a nut and the bolt ladder at the summit. Long day! 11 hours climbing 5 hours descent. Lost time due to a snow field. Lead the 6b+ and 6c corner pitches out of the snow field as well as the 6c crack pitch higher up
with Lukas S
climbed everything free appart from sitting on second to remove a nut and the bolt ladder at the summit. Long day! 11 hours climbing 5 hours descent. Lost time due to a snow field. Lead the 6b+ and 6c corner pitches out of the snow field as well as the 6c crack pitch higher up
with Lukas S
AnnaBacklund ?Jun, 2017 2nd
Hidden 28 Jul, 2015 2nd dog
MonkeyDawson ?Aug, 2012 - Epic day out. Fantastic climbing concluding on the pinnacle slab in the rain! Awful descent in a storm in the dark.
with Simon Smith
Epic day out. Fantastic climbing concluding on the pinnacle slab in the rain! Awful descent in a storm in the dark.
with Simon Smith
Ewan Russell 31 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Great pitches, Contrived route and an amazing summit. All lead free. We straighted out the first half in places and also did the corner pitch of marianne rather than leaving the corner system out right. I lead the 6c+ summit pitch free.
with Tasmanian kim
Great pitches, Contrived route and an amazing summit. All lead free. We straighted out the first half in places and also did the corner pitch of marianne rather than leaving the corner system out right. I lead the 6c+ summit pitch free.
with Tasmanian kim
morganator ?Jul, 2011 AltLd
with soph
with soph
soph ?Jul, 2011 AltLd
with Ben Tibbetts, morganator
with Ben Tibbetts, morganator
Hidden 15 Aug, 2010 AltLd dnf
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Style of ascent
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