UKC

220m, 10 pitches. Good rock, fine climbing. An exposed approach on easy slabs and ledges for 180m leads to two obvious niches - start from left hand one.Follow a crack line for two pitches, the second being the harder. Then move out right a little from the chimney line and continue steeply but on good holds. After two pitches move back left into the continuation of the chimney line and continue more easily to a gap in the ridge. 110m of climbing leads to the North Summit. Harder climbing on only 2/3 pitches but with the approach and descent it offers a reasonable outing - fit climbers might manage a second route on the same face or on the Fleischbank?

H. Fiechtl, F. Weinberger 1923.

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Route of Interest
Auckenthaler

Grade: VII- ***
(Martinswand)

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