UKC

Restricted Access

The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.

40m.

Rockfax Description
Follow Guillotine to the niche. Tackle the steep crack directly above to gain the red groove. Climb this then pull out left around the bulge and up some dirty vegetated rock to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up the jamming crack of Guillotine, where that route moves left continue direct to the right hand crack. Steep and difficult moves up this, past "the chopping block" to the red corner. Bridge up this to an exit on left side of roof (thread) move back right to finish up a short V-groove.

Nick Taylor, Andy Lewandowski 05/Apr/2011.

Ticklists

Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak

Feedback

User Date Notes
nickcanute 3 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Response to Ian.. probably the left hand line described became Guillotine which had been climbed pre-1970? The crux of chopping block is the short steep crack, significantly harder than the crack of Guillotine to the left.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Response to Ian.. probably the left hand line described became Guillotine which had been climbed pre-1970? The crux of chopping block is the short steep crack, significantly harder than the crack of Guillotine to the left.
Ian Parsons 22 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Not exactly feedback, but possibly of interest with respect to the route’s history. The steep section above Garrotter’s belay appears to be the same as the first of two alternatives for that route’s second pitch, as described in the 1970 Southern Limestone Area guidebook. Is this regarded as Chopping Block’s crux, or is that encountered higher up?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not exactly feedback, but possibly of interest with respect to the route’s history. The steep section above Garrotter’s belay appears to be the same as the first of two alternatives for that route’s second pitch, as described in the 1970 Southern Limestone Area guidebook. Is this regarded as Chopping Block’s crux, or is that encountered higher up?

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Willersley Castle Rocks

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 3
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Fern Hill

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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