Avoid the crag after rain - the porous rock absorbs water causing holds to become brittle. The top tier bouldering normally dries fastest and is exposed to any wind going.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully as you look in, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence.
Peregrine chicks were confirmed in 2022, 2023 was less clear and we're checking the situation for 2024. The site is actively monitored by local bird groups, please avoid until the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge. Peregrines are a protected species covered by criminal law.
Rockfax Description
Climb the diagonal and increasingly grassy crack left of the big roof to meadows. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Stuart Russell | 5 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: The crack is vegetated only on the ledge now. Good gear can be placed in the crack for all the actual climbing. Deserves more traffic! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The crack is vegetated only on the ledge now. Good gear can be placed in the crack for all the actual climbing. Deserves more traffic! |
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Fidget | 23 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: Yes, it's overgrown, but that means it needs more traffic, not to be ignored! It's a nice line, and I don't think it's as overgrown as it possibly was now anyway. I soloed it to the ledge and decided the top half too necky without a rope, since the route changes style from positive to smooth. Luckily the ledge is big enough to sit on and wait to be rescued :) | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Yes, it's overgrown, but that means it needs more traffic, not to be ignored! It's a nice line, and I don't think it's as overgrown as it possibly was now anyway. I soloed it to the ledge and decided the top half too necky without a rope, since the route changes style from positive to smooth. Luckily the ledge is big enough to sit on and wait to be rescued :) |
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Gooders | 24 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Bad condition. The route's horribly over-grown and I needed to do some gardening to get any gear in the second half of the crack. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Bad condition. The route's horribly over-grown and I needed to do some gardening to get any gear in the second half of the crack. |
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