UKC

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Avoid the crag after rain - the porous rock absorbs water causing holds to become brittle. The top tier bouldering normally dries fastest and is exposed to any wind going.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrines nest left of Clashhooks Gully as you look in, please avoid all routes on Upper & Lower Central Buttresses during this period. Raven have also been sighted around the route 'The Notch' - climbers are advised to avoid this area if the birds are in residence. 

Peregrine chicks were confirmed in 2022, 2023 was less clear and we're checking the situation for 2024. The site is actively monitored by local bird groups, please avoid until the agreed date of 30 June and possibly longer to give chicks chance to fledge. Peregrines are a protected species covered by criminal law.

9m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the diagonal and increasingly grassy crack left of the big roof to meadows. © Rockfax

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stuart Russell 5 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The crack is vegetated only on the ledge now. Good gear can be placed in the crack for all the actual climbing. Deserves more traffic!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The crack is vegetated only on the ledge now. Good gear can be placed in the crack for all the actual climbing. Deserves more traffic!
Fidget 23 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Yes, it's overgrown, but that means it needs more traffic, not to be ignored! It's a nice line, and I don't think it's as overgrown as it possibly was now anyway. I soloed it to the ledge and decided the top half too necky without a rope, since the route changes style from positive to smooth. Luckily the ledge is big enough to sit on and wait to be rescued :)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yes, it's overgrown, but that means it needs more traffic, not to be ignored! It's a nice line, and I don't think it's as overgrown as it possibly was now anyway. I soloed it to the ledge and decided the top half too necky without a rope, since the route changes style from positive to smooth. Luckily the ledge is big enough to sit on and wait to be rescued :)
Gooders 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Bad condition. The route's horribly over-grown and I needed to do some gardening to get any gear in the second half of the crack.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bad condition. The route's horribly over-grown and I needed to do some gardening to get any gear in the second half of the crack.

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