60m, 2 pitches.
This climb takes the crooked chimney/corner system which splits the arete formed between the main face of the cliff and the left wall of the gully. Start just left of the base of the arete on a large ledge. Traverse in from right.
(1) 20 m. Climb the obvious flakes on the arete and then up the right-hand wall. Traverse right to a crack splitting a large block. From top of block, step across to large ledge and belay in base of a short corner.
(2) 40 m. Climb corner and traverse left to base of chimney. Climb chimney to hanging slab leading up left. Climb slab until forced out onto the arete by the overhang. Pass the overhang and then climb up diagonally rightwards to the top of the crag.
(1) 20 m. Climb the obvious flakes on the arete and then up the right-hand wall. Traverse right to a crack splitting a large block. From top of block, step across to large ledge and belay in base of a short corner.
(2) 40 m. Climb corner and traverse left to base of chimney. Climb chimney to hanging slab leading up left. Climb slab until forced out onto the arete by the overhang. Pass the overhang and then climb up diagonally rightwards to the top of the crag.
S. Gallwey (2), E. Hernstadt (1) Jun/1981.
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Route of Interest
Dark Angel
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Coumshingaun)