95m, 6 pitches.
1. Start just right of the toe of the buttress. Climb easy slabs towards a square notch and small pinnacle, below and left of the Flat Iron. Belay below the pinnacle.
2. 4b. A short slab leads to the notch. Pull over with difficulty and go diagonally right to belay below the Flat Iron.
3. Follow blocks immediately left of the Flat Iron, then a slab directly above.
4. 4a. Gain a narrow hanging slab from the right, follow this to its top then another slab on the left - unprotected. Belay up to the right.
5. Move slightly left to avoid loose rocks on the arete, follow the ridge to below a short tower, junction with V Buttress Route.
6. Climb the tower and follow the pinnacled ridge to the end.
2. 4b. A short slab leads to the notch. Pull over with difficulty and go diagonally right to belay below the Flat Iron.
3. Follow blocks immediately left of the Flat Iron, then a slab directly above.
4. 4a. Gain a narrow hanging slab from the right, follow this to its top then another slab on the left - unprotected. Belay up to the right.
5. Move slightly left to avoid loose rocks on the arete, follow the ridge to below a short tower, junction with V Buttress Route.
6. Climb the tower and follow the pinnacled ridge to the end.
Simon Caldwell, Carmen Elphick 30/Apr/2011.
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Route of Interest
The Insomniacs Traverse
Grade: S 4a ***
(Tryfan Fach [Little Tryfan])