UKC

Restricted Access

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy. 

Essentially an easier version of the Fat Cat Roof. Start as for the Fat Cat Roof but rather than moing into the slots, move leftwards as for the Poodle Traverse. At the base of 'Fings..' move right to complete the crux of Mr Magic and traverse the lip to finish as for the Fat Cat Roof.

Kevin Hughes 28/Apr/2011.

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Voting
High f7B+
Mid f7B+
Low f7B+
High f7B
Mid f7B
Low f7B
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Great Escape

Grade: f7B ***
(Oxwich Bay Quarry)

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