Restricted Access
Following a fatality, the BMC agreed the following conditions with the landowner - failure to comply with these requirements could result in a complete ban on climbing:
- No large groups
- No outdoor education or instructional groups
- No dogs
- All climbers must descend on foot - NO abseiling
The North East England Guide provides warning on the stability of the following routes: Pianissimo to Kestrel, Wings, BBC, Crackers and Gone. Many of the routes have steep grassy top outs.
27m.
A good pitch which avoids the suspect rock of the original route. Well protected. Start at the same place as the original route. Climb the cracked wall trending right to a shallow smooth groove. Ascend the groove (awkward) then pull right to a short crack [junction with Weedy Wall] and the grass ledge. Belay. Choice of finishes:
1. The crack on the left (original finish) V.Diff.
2. Straight up the wall and finish right of the large tree (Weedy Wall) 5a.
3. The stepped corner on the right (Birdland) Severe.
1. The crack on the left (original finish) V.Diff.
2. Straight up the wall and finish right of the large tree (Weedy Wall) 5a.
3. The stepped corner on the right (Birdland) Severe.
Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 22/Apr/2010.
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Route of Interest
Central Climb
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Almscliff)