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Following a fatality, the BMC agreed the following conditions with the landowner - failure to comply with these requirements could result in a complete ban on climbing:

  • No large groups
  • No outdoor education or instructional groups
  • No dogs
  • All climbers must descend on foot - NO abseiling

The North East England Guide provides warning on the stability of the following routes: Pianissimo to Kestrel, Wings, BBC, Crackers and Gone. Many of the routes have steep grassy top outs.

27m. A fine pitch on sound rock with good protection. Start 2m left of Wings below a shallow recess. Climb through the recess and continue up a thin crack in the wall to a grassy ledge. Continue by climbing the steep wall just right of a large flake to good ledges below the final large roof. Choice of finishes:
1. The corner on the right - Birdland Direct 4b **.
2. Straight over the final roof - Birdland Eliminate HVS 5a.
3. The corner / crack on the left Birdland Ordinary Severe.

Tony Marr, Mike Tooke 05/May/2010.

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