150m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 6a, 2) 6a+, 3) 6a, 4) 6a+, 5) 6b+, 6) 5a, 7) 4a. A fine sustained climb up the pillar right of the long corner. It fizzles out a bit towards the top but only after covering loads of interesting ground. Finishing up Coeur de verre in one huge sustained pitch (or two shorter ones if you must) adds to the experience a lot! © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
alpinist63 8 Sep Lead rpt
Hidden 3 May AltLd O/S
Hidden 17 Apr AltLd O/S
Dohnny_Jawes 17 Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 Feb AltLd
AnnaBacklund ?Dec, 2018 AltLd O/S
JCAshman 3 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S Amazing route, interesting all the way, finished up ‘passion d’ amor’. Led all pitches. Went to far right on pitch 2 and had to do a sketchy down climb to get back on route. Thought the first 2 6a+ pitches were as hard as the 6b+
Amazing route, interesting all the way, finished up ‘passion d’ amor’. Led all pitches. Went to far right on pitch 2 and had to do a sketchy down climb to get back on route. Thought the first 2 6a+ pitches were as hard as the 6b+
lukas_s 2 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Verdon warm up. linked some pitches and finished up passion de amoure
with Neele
Verdon warm up. linked some pitches and finished up passion de amoure
with Neele
Paul ablitt 1 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Alex
with Alex
tsyrett 17 Nov, 2017 AltLd dnf The first pitch gets 6a+ in the new local guide and felt every bit of it for the first pitch of the day. We climbed the first 2 pitches until drifting left on the third to join sucepe as the rockfax guide looks like its a shared belay, which it is not. We then climbed the two 6a+ pitches of sucepe up the flake/crack to the belay at the tree. Finishing up passion d'amour in one pitch. It ended up being a brilliant climb of sustained 6a/6a+ climbing!
The first pitch gets 6a+ in the new local guide and felt every bit of it for the first pitch of the day. We climbed the first 2 pitches until drifting left on the third to join sucepe as the rockfax guide looks like its a shared belay, which it is not. We then climbed the two 6a+ pitches of sucepe up the flake/crack to the belay at the tree. Finishing up passion d'amour in one pitch. It ended up being a brilliant climb of sustained 6a/6a+ climbing!
seanhendo123 4 Oct, 2017 AltLd dog Took on first draw of crux as didn't want to drop onto belay, great route
with Tim
Took on first draw of crux as didn't want to drop onto belay, great route
with Tim
Hidden 4 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
pie_eater_pete 20 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 8 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Rami 8 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
with tuukka
with tuukka
m.powell02 6 Sep, 2017 2nd β Only the first 3 pitches. The bottom two pitches were nails for the grade. We then drifted left onto Sucepe without realising, and spent a while debating where we were until finishing up Passion d'amour as the sun dipped below the horizon.
with Fwood94
Only the first 3 pitches. The bottom two pitches were nails for the grade. We then drifted left onto Sucepe without realising, and spent a while debating where we were until finishing up Passion d'amour as the sun dipped below the horizon.
with Fwood94
Julesthe1st 7 May, 2017 AltLd O/S Brilliant climb. Thought the crux was one of the thin face pitches rather than the 6B+ pitch. Finished up Passion... Was knackered at the top. A perfect end to a great first verdon experience
with Robin
Brilliant climb. Thought the crux was one of the thin face pitches rather than the 6B+ pitch. Finished up Passion... Was knackered at the top. A perfect end to a great first verdon experience
with Robin
Hidden ?May, 2017 AltLd
Hidden ?May, 2017 AltLd
ferdia 3 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S really good
with Andy Moles, Rozzy Pedder
really good
with Andy Moles, Rozzy Pedder
Andy Moles 3 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with ferdia, Rozzy
with ferdia, Rozzy
Gloria ?Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S classic harder Verdon - 7 pitch beauty, lead 4 pitches of this and I ran the last two pitches together - not sure if we were on route like many others below..
with Eric Pieuchot
classic harder Verdon - 7 pitch beauty, lead 4 pitches of this and I ran the last two pitches together - not sure if we were on route like many others below..
with Eric Pieuchot
Hidden ?May, 2016 -
Hidden ?May, 2016 Lead
jon_gill1 21 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S me P2,P4,P6 and we finished on passion d'amour
me P2,P4,P6 and we finished on passion d'amour
Richard Kendrick 21 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Jon Gill
with Jon Gill
stevorobs3 15 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
with ian d f
with ian d f
ian d f 15 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
Paul Figg 11 Oct, 2015 AltLd
with Andy Brown, Malcolm Bass
with Andy Brown, Malcolm Bass
Malcolm Bass ?Oct, 2015 AltLd Brilliant
with Paul Figg, Andy Brown
Brilliant
with Paul Figg, Andy Brown
Hidden 23 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 23 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 5 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 5 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Done in 5 pitches and finished up Cœur de Verre. Absolutely brilliant route - every pitch worthwhile. Led the crux pitch after much jibbering getting off the belay. Not too hard for Verdon 6b+ and eases the higher you go.
with Pagan
Done in 5 pitches and finished up Cœur de Verre. Absolutely brilliant route - every pitch worthwhile. Led the crux pitch after much jibbering getting off the belay. Not too hard for Verdon 6b+ and eases the higher you go.
with Pagan
Graham Baxter 21 May, 2015 2nd O/S A great start to a 4 day limestone extravaganza
with Alan Carne
A great start to a 4 day limestone extravaganza
with Alan Carne
Graham Baxter 21 May, 2015 2nd
with Alan Carne
with Alan Carne
Hidden 29 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Uisdean hawthorn 29 Jul, 2014 AltLd
stuart34 10 Apr, 2014 AltLd dog from about p3 we think, then procedded to fall off left right and centre and probably finish up something else, great
from about p3 we think, then procedded to fall off left right and centre and probably finish up something else, great
jon_gill1 6 Apr, 2014 AltLd dnf I led pitch 1 and 3 and Chris led pitch 2. we got rained off and finished up chlorochose
with ross garfoot, chris Lyness
I led pitch 1 and 3 and Chris led pitch 2. we got rained off and finished up chlorochose
with ross garfoot, chris Lyness
Macleod 22 Mar, 2014 AltLd finished up passion d'amour
with dominic
finished up passion d'amour
with dominic
michaelja ?Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S
ambrooker 18 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
chiverstom 18 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Fredrik Nyberg 26 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S Amazing climb. Hard to know if we did the correct finnish. Wet.
with Bj?rn Pettersson
Amazing climb. Hard to know if we did the correct finnish. Wet.
with Bj?rn Pettersson
John Carney ?Mar, 2013 -
with Adam George
with Adam George
Hidden 24 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
uphillnow 26 Jun, 2011 -
uphillnow 26 Jun, 2011 -
lrandall 27 Apr, 2011 Lead dog I (eventually) walked away from this route feeling utterly dejected. Took pitches 1, 3, 5 & 6. Felt insecure on the first pitch. Fell of the second (6a+) pitch on second! Tried to lead the crux pitch but couldn't get past the 1st bolt and I thought I was solid at 6b+. Linked the final two pitches in one 60m push. It pissed down with rain first mind, so the wet ropes were quite a burden from 40m upwards. Utter, utter fail.
with m_gas
I (eventually) walked away from this route feeling utterly dejected. Took pitches 1, 3, 5 & 6. Felt insecure on the first pitch. Fell of the second (6a+) pitch on second! Tried to lead the crux pitch but couldn't get past the 1st bolt and I thought I was solid at 6b+. Linked the final two pitches in one 60m push. It pissed down with rain first mind, so the wet ropes were quite a burden from 40m upwards. Utter, utter fail.
with m_gas
metal arms 24 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Kate ran the last two pitches together in a storm! But she might have been off line on something harder (6a?) if the original finishes in the gully...
Kate ran the last two pitches together in a storm! But she might have been off line on something harder (6a?) if the original finishes in the gully...
tigertim ?Oct, 2010 AltLd
Dave Reeve ?Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S
sebrider 13 Aug, 2010 AltLd dog Rested once after the difficulties on the 6b+ pitch. Great route, finished up Passion D'Amour.
with Dan Walker
Rested once after the difficulties on the 6b+ pitch. Great route, finished up Passion D'Amour.
with Dan Walker
Paul D Jones ?Jun, 2010 AltLd
tom.ireson ?Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Finished on last two pitches of this after being distracted from our original route by an attractive trad crack
with Paul Jones
Finished on last two pitches of this after being distracted from our original route by an attractive trad crack
with Paul Jones
whistler 20 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Anna, Luke
with Anna, Luke
tom.ireson ?Jun, 2009 Lead dog Lead all pitches. Very hard work as we were too hot and did not have enough water (best not to mention why!) Would have been very enjoyable if it had been a bit cooler. Some lovely pitches and only a little bit of polish near the bottom. Be warned the belays are mostly semi-hanging! Also contains a few classic bits of verdon runout between the bolts, especially on the final blast for the chains at the end of each pitch. Would recommend doing it in the afternoon if you are confident you can move quickly as it goes into shade about 3 or 4ish and becomes alot nicer to climb.
with Paul Jones
Lead all pitches. Very hard work as we were too hot and did not have enough water (best not to mention why!) Would have been very enjoyable if it had been a bit cooler. Some lovely pitches and only a little bit of polish near the bottom. Be warned the belays are mostly semi-hanging! Also contains a few classic bits of verdon runout between the bolts, especially on the final blast for the chains at the end of each pitch. Would recommend doing it in the afternoon if you are confident you can move quickly as it goes into shade about 3 or 4ish and becomes alot nicer to climb.
with Paul Jones
blaza1 ??, 2009 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??, 2008 AltLd O/S Led pitches 2 & 4 before following Brian up Passion d'amour to finish.
with Brian
Led pitches 2 & 4 before following Brian up Passion d'amour to finish.
with Brian
K1 ??, 2006 -
michael burrows 28 May, 1997 AltLd O/S
with andy boorman
with andy boorman
Daniel Wrightson 28 Jun, 1993 Lead O/S climbed with a group lead by Gigi Mario, the buddhist monk who is also an alpine guide. But he let me do my own thing, with Yogananda, a sicilian prince apprentice monk seconding.
with Yogananda
climbed with a group lead by Gigi Mario, the buddhist monk who is also an alpine guide. But he let me do my own thing, with Yogananda, a sicilian prince apprentice monk seconding.
with Yogananda
AlexRenshaw 16 Apr, 1991 -
with Simon Donowho
with Simon Donowho
ewjudge 9 Apr, 1991 AltLd O/S
with Sven Wardle
with Sven Wardle
Hidden ?Jun, 1990 -
Hidden ??, 1990 -
Rob Kennard ??, 1990 -
wynaptomos ?Aug, 1987 2nd O/S
HighChilternRidge ?Jul, 1987 -
Hidden 29 Aug, 1986 Lead
Hidden 20 Aug, 1986 AltLd
andy gittins ??, 1986 -
Pete Ogden ??, 1980 AltLd
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Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set