45m. P1 15m 4c. From 10m R of Bad to the Bone, climb choss to a buddleia and sapling. Climb the slab, with relative ease, to an overlap. Avoid the loose flake and mantel onto the slab above to reach the headwall. Step left and up to a right-trending intermittent crack. Climb this awkwardly but interestingly to its conclusion in a jumble of dubious looking blocks; then continue to a tree at the rim of the quarry.

M Kann, M Bengey Aug/2009

dylan.b 03/Apr Lead O/S
with George
George Killaspy 02/Apr 2nd O/S
with Dylan
jackappleby 17/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with paula, Eamon
bouldering_matt 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S

The lower slab was pretty blank so didn't place any gear (after slinging a tree at the base of the slab, note take lots of slings) until I got to the overlap. Put a sling on the tree below the main wall which was quite challenging as there wasn't abundance of holds low down. I did my best to protect it and traverse right to the more broken (easier) vertical finish. Felt a bit loose near the top so care was needed. Choice of trees to build an anchor with at the top. Really pleased to climb another VS clean.

Jimkato ?/Jun/16 Lead
with Matt Walker
Jimkato ?/Jun/16 -
Hidden 24/May/16 2nd
Hidden 24/May/16 Lead O/S
Robin Woodward 01/May/16 Lead O/S

Tough at the grade, protected the first half with mostly slings around trees until I ran out. Enough gear, but small holds and tenuous moves up the crux to the 'loose blocks'. Also didn't have a guide so was second guessing the line constantly, but had it confirmed after. The crack is shorter than expect from the description.

Jenny Dart 01/May/16 2nd
with Robin
Swsloper 30/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 21/Mar/16 TR

worth it for the upper section

with Mike Rotraxion
markfromstoke 06/Mar/16 -

To the ledge to remove the bramble-

with Norman
Norman_P_W 06/Mar/16 -
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
markfromstoke 11/Aug/15 Lead
with Adrian, Steve N
Paul Baller 21/Jul/15 Lead O/S

2nd pitch is really nice.

with matt stevens
davidclare 16/May/15 Lead O/S

Did a little spot of gardening on this, nothing too over the top but cleaned enough footholds to make the traverse sensible at the grade. The large bramble before the top section is vicious! It's definitely climbable as is and the top half has some interesting moves for the grade so it's worth doing. As the guide says the steep bit is well protected but be very careful of the final 3m which is covered in suspect blocks held on by grass.

with Tris Vye
Hidden ?/May/15 Lead dnf
MoWalker3 22/Apr/15 -

the traverse is a bit manky at the moment.

with Cormac
markfromstoke 03/Jul/14 Lead

Bold for VS, could do with a clean in places, oh and don't forget the secateurs, monster bramble encroaching.

with Adrian, Steve N
Hidden 26/May/14 2nd O/S
Felix Ottey 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Didn't finish as this was a horror show!! Don't do it!!

Cheese Monkey 18/May/13 Lead O/S

Nice headwall if slightly loose.

pheotleyr 18/May/13 2nd β
with Andrew, Ben
Phil Murray 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Hmm - felt serious for VS, and loose - and not much traffic (yet). THe lower slabs are quite tricky, but then the move onto the headwall feels poorly protected & very thin / reachy. The rock above seems suspect. The top bit is loose-looking blocks. Glad to get off in one piece! Wouldn't recommend it. More traffic needed - paradoxically.

with Liz
Huntlyfiddler 09/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
beardy mike 26/May/11 Lead rpt

Reclimbed with Bill Naylor with the new more direct start after extensive cleaning. Exactly how death was avoided on the FA I'm not entirely sure as the amount of loose "material" that was released during descaling operations was quite staggering... still, it's cleanish now and the climbing on the headwall is actually pretty excellent!

with Bill Naylor
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