UKC

Restricted Access

Surrounded by fantastic beaches the popular climbing area of Baggy point features excellent slab climbing on metamorphosed sandstone. With grades ranging from Mod to E7 with several routes graded XS. Have a look at the climbing on Cheesegrater Cliff and Concrete wall for something much more adventurous. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Following a review of climbing restrictions at Baggy Point, the historical restriction on the Long Rock was lifted in 2013. This means that both the Long Rock and the Promontory are unrestricted, but the remaining climbing areas from Scrattling Zawn to Concrete Wall inclusive and Central Walls to Slab Cove inclusive are still restricted for the duration of the nesting season.

There is still a slightly confusing white marker at the top of the descent to the Long Rock, however the restriction definitely no longer applies to this part of the headland. The National Trust are aware of this and will move the marker at some point in the future, but given a busy summer work schedule this may not be for some time. In the meantime, please feel free to access this part of the crag. Many thanks to the National Trust for their help with this.

60m, 2 pitches. Start as for 'The Straight and Narrow' then at about 10m trend slightly left and climb the entire slab straight up without joining 'Gladiator' or the end of 'Midnight Cowboy', but ending at the top out of 'Midnight Cowboy'. The route follows short thin cracks, and slabby sections with tiny holds, some of which come loose! Maybe be harder grade than I have initially listed.
[Straight And Narrow steps R over the top of the recess and roof... I think this route goes straight up instead (hence its name!) - yes, harder.]

Not in CC guide

Matt Jackson 04/Jun/2011.

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Route of Interest
Sacre Coeur

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Blackchurch)

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