Start left hand on a positive 1cm deep crimp and right hand on the sloper. Right hand moves to the angled pinch with a croszly thumb-catch. Now do a very shouldery move into the square corner. This is taken as a wide pinch with fingers on a 2mm ripple and thumb on the other side of the corner, against a thin seam. You are not allowed to use the incut hold on the corner. Right hand then goes up to a small crimp at the back of the horizontal crack. If it feels good/positive/like-a-pocket then you are too far to the right, move left along the crack until it feels rubbish. Jump to jug.

Pete Sharpe 01/Jul/2011

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 2 May, 2015 Sent β
Beastly Squirrel 30 Mar, 2012 Sent x Finally!! After so long of trying, it went after 30mins in todays session :-) Was getting really close but then cut my finger on the righthand thumb catch so didnt have many goes left - but pulled it out the bag just 2 goes after that! So pysched, techniqally my 2nd 8a but this felt much harder than 'Boy Racer'. This is by far one of the hardest thing ive ever climbed! Cheers Pete for telling my about this line and for the beta :-) Update: used a heel which makes it abit easier - probably more like 7c+/8a.
Finally!! After so long of trying, it went after 30mins in todays session :-) Was getting really close but then cut my finger on the righthand thumb catch so didnt have many goes left - but pulled it out the bag just 2 goes after that! So pysched, techniqally my 2nd 8a but this felt much harder than 'Boy Racer'. This is by far one of the hardest thing ive ever climbed! Cheers Pete for telling my about this line and for the beta :-) Update: used a heel which makes it abit easier - probably more like 7c+/8a.
phsharpy 2 Jul, 2011 Sent x Easily the longest i've ever spent on one move!
with Tom, Jimmy and Rick
Easily the longest i've ever spent on one move!
with Tom, Jimmy and Rick
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