Rockfax Description
10/14m. The well-scoured crack left of the sharp arete is sustained and precarious. Escape at the top or belay, then move left and climb the juggy tower. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Roaches HVS Challenge, The V.S.+ Ticklist.

DeanJPepper 06/Oct/17 2nd
Mr Fuller 02/Sep/17 Lead O/S

Top end vs, 5a. Good gear, big holds. A micro wire protects the top, couldn't get in a regular small wire. The tower above is a juggy contrast.

Hidden 02/Sep/17 2nd O/S
raidiun 19/Nov/16 Lead O/S

Needed some psyche to top out on the soggy turf. Second managed to pull a handful of soil onto his face.

Jonny Holmes 16/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Bex Hedderick
Rob Gillespie 09/Oct/16 Lead rpt
ChrisBrooke 09/Oct/16 2nd

JW led. Seconded in trainers as the holds are all big. Good little route and no way HVS. Good gear and jugs all the way.

with John Wilson, John Inkpen
Dale ?/Sep/16 Solo O/S

If u lead this it would never be hvs to much gear. It was Def hvs for me

Hidden 25/Mar/16 2nd
jack_44 25/Mar/16 Lead O/S

First HVS lead!

Hidden 13/Oct/15 Lead
Dexter JW 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Not HVS. Too well protected

with Popz
Becky 20/Aug/15 2nd O/S
evhall 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Steve P
birthers 19/Jul/15 2nd
IainMay 05/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Will Doyle
BarbsMurray 23/Jun/15 2nd
with Mikey
Flavio 07/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Roaches HVS Challenge #17

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
DanChad 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Chris Murray 06/Jun/15 2nd

A gift at HVS. Crux is protected with small wires (no micros required despite other comments). The top bit is a fun contrast. Shame so many miss it out.

Hidden 06/Jun/15 Lead
Paul Hy 03/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with Harry G
Adamski1986 26/Apr/15 Lead
with Zoe Strong
Mike W 12/Apr/15 Lead
MatthewH 12/Apr/15 2nd O/S
with Mike Whitehurst
Hidden 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
spearing05 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S

Didn't feel like HVS compared to Damascus but then I wasn't leading.

with Andrew
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Sep/14 Lead
John Higgs 31/Aug/14 Lead dnf
WillDoole ?/Jun/14 Lead
with Rachel Armstrong
Andrew Abraham 31/May/14 Lead O/S
with Sam Riley
jjclarke70 15/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Rob Gillespie ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Callum van Werkhoven 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Stu Breese
PeteWilson 11/Jun/13 2nd O/S

more like VS 5a?

with sam yarwood
Hidden 11/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/13 Lead O/S
JenDurden 16/Feb/13 2nd
TiffTiff 16/Feb/13 2nd O/S
MJS ??/2013 -
MJS ??/2013 -
mmmhumous 21/Oct/12 2nd
with Jon, Catie
Matt Robinson 06/Aug/12 2nd RP
paulerussell 03/Aug/12 2nd O/S
cpoad 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Bold at the top, but didn't feel too bad

with Paul R
Hidden 22/Jul/12 Lead rpt
terri mc 19/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Andy Shardlow
swhitley 29/May/12 Lead O/S
gingerwolf 29/May/12 2nd
with Sean
TM_Horton 25/May/12 Lead O/S

fun... but short...

Steve230681 24/May/12 2nd O/S
with Adrian Pickstock, Chris Parry
PazzaAE86 24/May/12 Lead O/S
with Andrea Shallcross, Adrian Pickstock, Laura Sherran, Steve230681
williap 19/May/12 Lead
with Rachel
terri mc 17/May/12 2nd β

Forgot my shoes!

with Andy Shardlow
Coel Hellier ?/Mar/12 Lead
scotty h 25/Feb/12 2nd β


with Tim Nixon
robinmuzette 15/Jan/12 2nd O/S
Coops_13 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S

First HVS lead!! Very bold at the top!!

Hidden 06/Nov/11 2nd
benny_m 06/Nov/11 Lead
with Su
thrutch 16/Oct/11 Lead
with Sven
GC 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S

Cool finish up the tower.

with Peter Williams
bobpilgrem 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Dubious brass wire in top of crack.

with Bob/Nic
SR1970 ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
JaseSSDD 22/Sep/11 2nd
with Ian Barker
Müllered 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S

First HVS lead. Second half was precarious as I am verticaly challenged. Didnt climb the tower. Found Damascus crack to be harder personally.

with James Agget, Ian Hawley
Nigel Bond 24/Aug/11 Lead
with Bern Hardman
Bradbury 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Mary Winter
craig naylor 09/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with dan armstrong
mhawk 24/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Julie Hulme, Lee Picken
Mike Turner 15/Jul/11 Lead O/S
DaNo123 15/Jul/11 2nd


with Hannah, mike turner
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
andrusht84 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with ade pickstock
Keith-Getoutadventures 07/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 06/Jun/11 2nd O/S
minirollsrule 19/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/11 2nd O/S
JohnBear 24/Apr/11 2nd

Slipped off first move

with Smithy
mksmith35 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
mcglenr25 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

First clean onsight of an HVS!

djcarter 20/Apr/11 AltLd rpt

Put the gear in but didn't go for the top out, down climbed, partner topped out and I seconded. Fluttery at top, penultimate move would have been nicer if it wasn't so hot that day, finishes with a dodgy mantle!

Neil D 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Dan Carter
gingerwolf 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Jim Gaffney 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
clairepoppett 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S

First HVS lead! Probably only HVS if you're short

with Jim Gaffney
Aid@n 26/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with John Moran
SteWatkins ?/Mar/11 -
02jmmoran ?/Feb/11 Lead
Aid@n ?/Feb/11 Lead O/S

First HVS, awkward top out and did not have micros.

Hidden 29/Jan/11 2nd
Hidden 29/Jan/11 2nd O/S
rwm7131 29/Jan/11 Lead
with James Ayres & Dan Parker
pord 01/Jan/11 -
John Mckeating ??/2011 -
wild_nomad 02/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Relatively easy climbing and good gear till about two moves from the end then it's a precarious balancy reach to the top. Good climbing with a reasonably well protected crux with a couple of micro wires (DMM Imps). Need lots of rope for the belay at the top.

with Kevin
mhawk 22/Aug/10 TR
Hidden 22/Aug/10 TR O/S
dja 16/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Double Knee Bar 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S

First HVS. Fluttery after the crack.

with Iain
Stuart_Burbidge 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Jacqui Parker
Jacqui Parker 08/Aug/10 2nd
with Stu Burbidge
Hidden 20/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Monkey_Alan 12/Jun/10 TR

Led up to just below the top, couldn't commit and had a rope dropped down.

with Richard Perrin
Hidden 31/May/10 Lead dog
fatbuoybazza 30/May/10 Lead O/S
John Pickles 07/May/10 Lead O/S
with Graham Niven, Kieran Hodgson
Ander 03/May/10 Lead

Felt intimidated, but enjoyed. None of the moves too hard. Balancy.

with Deadahead
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Big Steve C 14/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Sammi
GF ??/2010 -
Ken Taylor ??/2010 -
MTS 17/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Oct/09 Lead
cooper leek 10/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with dennis, crucko
steve2006 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Kingsjester 12/Sep/09 2nd O/S
with Hannah King, Richard Hopton
JCB42 12/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Really fun and thought provoking, a good HVS to do after a few months off from climbing.

with Alaina Beacall
richardhopton 12/Sep/09 Lead
with Kingsjester
Alaina 12/Sep/09 2nd β
with JCB
Happy Wanderer 02/Aug/09 Lead dnf

Got 1/2 way up but top rope the rest after Ken did some gardening - must be done again.

with Ken T
VS4b 31/Jul/09 2nd
nathanroberts89 ?/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Enjoyed the top section.

SimonBrown 06/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Al Dossiter
Tom Stoddart 24/May/09 Lead
with Dave Battley
MaccMark 22/May/09 2nd
with Philip Jarvis
GPN 11/Apr/09 Solo O/S
Ewan Russell 14/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Peter Drake 14/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/09 2nd O/S
tjmillen ??/2009 Lead O/S
with simon hall
Col Kingshott ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
Danhan ??/2009 -
mmalbon 19/Oct/08 TR dog

same as last time, slipped on the final move. I need to do more 1 legged squats in the gym!

with Mick and Simon
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Sent O/S
sausage 24/Sep/08 Lead O/S
metal arms 20/Sep/08 Lead
mmalbon 17/Sep/08 TR dog

Just about managed this. I had a minor slip when reaching for the top of the first part - sillyreally, cos I did it straight after that!

with Mick
Hidden 10/Aug/08 Lead β
Jim Slater 13/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Apr/08 Lead O/S
dannyboy83 ?/Feb/08 Solo O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
gravity 08/Sep/07 TR
with Joff
31770 25/Aug/07 2nd
Hidden 25/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
kendogcatchy 05/Aug/07 Lead
prof_vague 04/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Nick
Hidden 26/May/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/May/07 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Apr/07 2nd
Caralynh 28/Apr/07 Lead O/S
alj 28/Apr/07 Lead
with leon skeldon
donkster 18/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with dennis
davek 15/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Larson
chiverstom 03/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
with Dave Turner
tskelhon ??/2007 Lead β
with Lauren Foster
Diggler ??/2007 Lead
Birdo ??/2007 -
with Dave Bird
eduardo ?/Nov/06 Lead O/S

Rich Fern 2nded

with Sylvain, Mark H
david morse 01/Oct/06 Lead

be careful with anchor at top...2 ropes advised. be silly to be pulled off the top of the crag if your partner fell off woulnt it....

with ric moat
Hidden 30/Sep/06 Lead
adam carless ?/Jul/06 Lead O/S

Bold top move, but a nice little route

with Sian
Hidden ??/2006 2nd
dan gibson ??/2006 -
Hidden 14/May/05 2nd O/S
adam carless 14/May/05 Lead
Hedley 01/May/05 2nd O/S
with John Wellbelove
thetourist 08/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Claire Ryder
Stig 06/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Jonathan Teale
ASchwirtz 01/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Shona D'arcy
Chesh ?/Jun/04 Lead
with Mash
Will Gordon ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Phil Nelson, Tom Roberts, Rob Gleeson
nige pacer 01/Nov/03 Lead O/S
Gus 20/Aug/03 Lead
with luisa giles
Andy Clarke 19/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Ralph
leon ?/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Andrew Southam
FrankW 01/Jun/03 2nd O/S
with Chris R
Digger 18/Apr/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
Hidden 05/Apr/03 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Mar/03 2nd
mark s ??/2003 Solo
Hidden 01/Sep/02 Lead
Dale Berry 27/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Claire Berry
charlesmfrench 06/Jul/02 Lead O/S
with Dave Fooks
akhughes ?/Jul/02 Lead
Hidden 23/Jun/02 2nd O/S
platt2000 ??/2002 Lead
Gus ??/2002 -
malc 16/Jun/00 2nd
Nigel Coe 10/Jun/00 2nd
with Tim Dunsby
Russell Flynn 13/May/00 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Apr/00 TR
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
tompercy ?/Jul/99 2nd
with Martin Jackson
petekeron ??/1999 Lead O/S
Martyn ??/1999 -
Hidden ??/1998 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/97 Lead
Chris Murray ?/May/97 Lead
with Richard Bower
Martin Bennett 26/Jan/97 -
with MT
Hidden 08/Sep/96 Lead
alan moore ??/1996 -
BruceW ??/1996 Lead O/S
michael burrows 27/Jun/95 Solo
Scott McRae 30/Apr/95 Lead O/S
with Steve Lucas
ColinD 14/Apr/95 Lead
nai ??/1995 Solo
Hidden 30/Jul/94 Lead
Hidden 23/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Duncan Bourne 05/Sep/93 Lead O/S

1st ever HVS lead

with E Allcock
Hidden 05/May/93 Lead
Hidden 30/Aug/92 2nd O/S
SimonN 23/Jun/92 Lead
adi bryant 06/Oct/91 Lead O/S
with Clive
Rob Davies 01/Jun/91 Lead
with Mike Papworth
Hidden 08/Jul/90 Lead
Hidden 20/May/90 Lead
Roget 03/May/90 Solo O/S
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
rogerskews ??/1976 -
mikej 21/May/69 Solo
with Brian Hill
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 48
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set