Rockfax Description
The slippery corner offers a fine line.
1) 4b, 30m. Climb the corner, often damp, until a stride round the arete finds a belay.
2) 4a, 15m. Chimney Route. Move right to the crack and follow this and easier climbing to the top. © Rockfax

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North Wales 100 Classic Climbs

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Mike Turner 3 Aug 2nd Abbed off in the rain from the belay at the end of P1
with 77paul, Graham Wells
Abbed off in the rain from the belay at the end of P1
with 77paul, Graham Wells
Luke90 23 Jul Solo O/S First pitch only (slightly damp). Second pitch looked even wetter and more vegetated. The line in the Rockfax app looked thoroughly implausible. Retreated down past Crosscut.
First pitch only (slightly damp). Second pitch looked even wetter and more vegetated. The line in the Rockfax app looked thoroughly implausible. Retreated down past Crosscut.
Mark Reeves 7 Jul Lead
SwannD0GG 7 Jul AltLd β
with Alex Battery
with Alex Battery
fizzychewitt 4 Jul AltLd Excellent fun, plentiful gear on the soapgut groove and all pitches pretty sustained. Almost a knee jam too far for Jayne on the chimney pitch, eek
Excellent fun, plentiful gear on the soapgut groove and all pitches pretty sustained. Almost a knee jam too far for Jayne on the chimney pitch, eek
Tim Francis 20 May 2nd O/S
nodwas 20 May Lead
HoboUniJoe 14 May AltLd
harrydavies 6 May -
Hidden 19 Apr 2nd O/S
Ollie Wragg ?? AltLd O/S
with Rich Cannell
with Rich Cannell
adam clarke 4 Aug, 2018 2nd
with James Hulme, Adam Lynch
with James Hulme, Adam Lynch
Dom Goodwin 2 Jul, 2018 2nd Pleasant climbing up Soapgut. Classic corner crack with jams and laybacks. Found it quite hard, but protection didn’t seem a problem. Rockfax guide is highly misleading; Ashton guide gives a much better description. Finish P1 with a nice scenic stance at the gendarme (33m). P2 is well described by the topo in the Ashton guide. Ignore the corner - judging by the polish, most take this easier variant, would also explain the Rockfax grade, though not the line on the topo, which is just totally wrong! After descending the hand traverse, go past the corner to the chimney. Rock is dirty from lack of use, but as it’s the only chimney in sight, it must be eponymous, so surely the correct line! Udge up this as suggested in the Ashton guide (4b seems about right) to find first protection (though before this, the high gendarme belay limits the fall) before a desperate move left into the crack. Couldn’t find anything other than an elbow jam followed by a desperate scrabble for non existent holds, surely this move is at least 4c?! Definitely seemed the hardest move of the weekend and we did several pitches graded 4b and one 4c... The crack leads back left to the corner, where the easy corner variant is joined. Good belay with old tat a couple of moves beyond the top of the corner, up to the right. About 20m for this pitch, then a very short easy slab pitch to the top, finishing in the same place as Direct Route.
Pleasant climbing up Soapgut. Classic corner crack with jams and laybacks. Found it quite hard, but protection didn’t seem a problem. Rockfax guide is highly misleading; Ashton guide gives a much better description. Finish P1 with a nice scenic stance at the gendarme (33m). P2 is well described by the topo in the Ashton guide. Ignore the corner - judging by the polish, most take this easier variant, would also explain the Rockfax grade, though not the line on the topo, which is just totally wrong! After descending the hand traverse, go past the corner to the chimney. Rock is dirty from lack of use, but as it’s the only chimney in sight, it must be eponymous, so surely the correct line! Udge up this as suggested in the Ashton guide (4b seems about right) to find first protection (though before this, the high gendarme belay limits the fall) before a desperate move left into the crack. Couldn’t find anything other than an elbow jam followed by a desperate scrabble for non existent holds, surely this move is at least 4c?! Definitely seemed the hardest move of the weekend and we did several pitches graded 4b and one 4c... The crack leads back left to the corner, where the easy corner variant is joined. Good belay with old tat a couple of moves beyond the top of the corner, up to the right. About 20m for this pitch, then a very short easy slab pitch to the top, finishing in the same place as Direct Route.
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 Lead
Pete Nugent 27 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S David tried to lead The Wall/Soapgut/Chimney Route the combo described in North Wales Rock (Ground Up) but the start of the Wall seemd pretty holdless & necky for a VD. So as we were only there "for a fun day out", we elected to start up Soapgut which a) seemed to have holds and gear and b) was bone dry. David struggled uo the initial section [pulling on the odd bit of gear..ahem!] to the half way ledge. I led the next section which seemed to go ok, with nice moves up and round the rib to belay on Chimney Route. The next pitch was up the crack was "surprisingly smooth" as per the guidebook description and I was glad of a camalot #4 for protection. Exiting from the crack system also proved to be tricky and rather vegeted. Eventually, I got to the ledge & belay which was equipped with rope slings and a maillon. A 50 m ab saw us back on the ground. It may be worth taking a spare tape/rope sling & krab/maillon to reinforce the in-situ gear. Despiet the bone dry conditions this route proved to be much more challenging than expected. David last did this route 40 years ago and I don't think I will be rushing back to it any time soon!
with Cathy Woodhead, David Medcalf
David tried to lead The Wall/Soapgut/Chimney Route the combo described in North Wales Rock (Ground Up) but the start of the Wall seemd pretty holdless & necky for a VD. So as we were only there "for a fun day out", we elected to start up Soapgut which a) seemed to have holds and gear and b) was bone dry. David struggled uo the initial section [pulling on the odd bit of gear..ahem!] to the half way ledge. I led the next section which seemed to go ok, with nice moves up and round the rib to belay on Chimney Route. The next pitch was up the crack was "surprisingly smooth" as per the guidebook description and I was glad of a camalot #4 for protection. Exiting from the crack system also proved to be tricky and rather vegeted. Eventually, I got to the ledge & belay which was equipped with rope slings and a maillon. A 50 m ab saw us back on the ground. It may be worth taking a spare tape/rope sling & krab/maillon to reinforce the in-situ gear. Despiet the bone dry conditions this route proved to be much more challenging than expected. David last did this route 40 years ago and I don't think I will be rushing back to it any time soon!
with Cathy Woodhead, David Medcalf
Bex 12 Jun, 2018 2nd β
with Ben Collins
with Ben Collins
pftom 10 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
danprince 29 May, 2018 2nd
petralina 27 May, 2018 2nd
ebutton 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S Lead all pitches. Started with Wall climb and traversed into soapgut along the grassy ledge
Lead all pitches. Started with Wall climb and traversed into soapgut along the grassy ledge
TimvanRiessen 19 May, 2018 2nd β
with ebutton
with ebutton
Adam Coles 5 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Clare
with Clare
Hidden 26 Aug, 2017 2nd
Deezel65 24 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Led Chimney route pitch - could imagine it could be good if dry and not a jungle at the top, but as is a dirty slimey unpleasant route.
Led Chimney route pitch - could imagine it could be good if dry and not a jungle at the top, but as is a dirty slimey unpleasant route.
ipfreely 24 Jul, 2017 AltLd
dkd 18 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Al
with Al
Green_t 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Interesting route topo by rockfax... definitely not right
Interesting route topo by rockfax... definitely not right
Bristol_Quornstar 17 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
Stanners 17 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S enjoyed the swim in the lake the most afterwards! Outstanding weather
with Alex Rhodes, Tab Green
enjoyed the swim in the lake the most afterwards! Outstanding weather
with Alex Rhodes, Tab Green
James Worthington 11 May, 2017 Lead A discontinuous wall climb, soapgut, chimney route link up, two days between routes! Completely dry and not at all greasy, very enjoyable.
with Henry
A discontinuous wall climb, soapgut, chimney route link up, two days between routes! Completely dry and not at all greasy, very enjoyable.
with Henry
Helen Rudkin 8 Apr, 2017 -
Matt Schwarz 8 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S did a first linking pitch, i lead sopagut, helen lead up out of chimney. was quiet damp and very slippy!
with Helen
did a first linking pitch, i lead sopagut, helen lead up out of chimney. was quiet damp and very slippy!
with Helen
mike mo ??, 2017 -
mike mo ??, 2017 -
Hidden 25 Aug, 2016 -
Hidden 13 Jul, 2016 Lead
Climbingspike ??, 2016 -
Hidden 18 Oct, 2015 2nd
Keiran O'Mahony 12 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Julia Bunney
with Julia Bunney
Marcin78 ?Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Tomek
with Tomek
Colin Knowles 27 Jun, 2015 Lead
mikeydee135 27 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
Andrew Lester 26 Sep, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 24 Aug, 2014 2nd
tmawer 24 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Willythegreat 26 Jul, 2014 -
Shane Willis 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
snowfluke 30 May, 2014 2nd
ADConway 30 May, 2014 Lead O/S
DWebs 20 Apr, 2014 AltLd dnf Need to go back. Excellent first pitch; despite bold and polished start, heads up a groove with lots of potential jugs. Got to first belay and then rained stopped any further climbing.
Need to go back. Excellent first pitch; despite bold and polished start, heads up a groove with lots of potential jugs. Got to first belay and then rained stopped any further climbing.
Jonathan Richardson 20 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P1 & 4
with Russ Walker
Lead P1 & 4
with Russ Walker
Cwallace 19 Apr, 2014 AltLd
oldmanofmow ??, 2014 -
George_Surf 11 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S I led p1 (after traverse in from wall climb) found it difficult with a few committing moves on unpositive holds. good gear all the way though. mike led the chimney pitch, also quite tricky and very polished.
with Mike Roberts
I led p1 (after traverse in from wall climb) found it difficult with a few committing moves on unpositive holds. good gear all the way though. mike led the chimney pitch, also quite tricky and very polished.
with Mike Roberts
lithos 14 Jul, 2013 2nd
with chris CC, megan CC
with chris CC, megan CC
mattgrange 7 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Terribly good traditional fun, included use of kneebars, slimy finger jams, vegetation and even some bad language.
Terribly good traditional fun, included use of kneebars, slimy finger jams, vegetation and even some bad language.
PAJames ??, 2013 -
Hidden 26 May, 2012 2nd dog
Callum Anderson ??, 2012 -
groliver26 15 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S
Neil Pacey 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S Excellent combo, I got the first and third pitches (not counting walk to Soapgut). First pitch requires care, very glassy and poor gear, enjoyed seconding Soapgut, well named, third pitch really nice climbing.
Excellent combo, I got the first and third pitches (not counting walk to Soapgut). First pitch requires care, very glassy and poor gear, enjoyed seconding Soapgut, well named, third pitch really nice climbing.
Tanya Savage 1 Oct, 2011 AltLd Backed off pitch 1 as very polished and one tiny wire only; fell off seconding it. Soapgut lived up to its name, but lots of gear, enjoyable climbing. Chimney route entertaining too!
Backed off pitch 1 as very polished and one tiny wire only; fell off seconding it. Soapgut lived up to its name, but lots of gear, enjoyable climbing. Chimney route entertaining too!
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?Oct, 2010 AltLd
with Westy
with Westy
tedburt 14 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
shoulders 17 Jul, 2005 2nd O/S
with dai
with dai
Hidden ??, 2005 AltLd O/S
Si ??, 2004 AltLd
with Jeffers
with Jeffers
greedo ??, 2004 Lead O/S
with Pete sargenson
with Pete sargenson
davebrox ?May, 2002 2nd with Max and Sarah
with Max and Sarah
pigeonjim ??, 2000 Lead O/S
chris wyatt ??, 2000 -
alan moore ??, 2000 -
snowy_woodruff ??, 1995 -
Hidden 31 May, 1994 AltLd
rogerskews 29 Oct, 1989 Lead
with Will Shufflebottom, Chris Holgate
with Will Shufflebottom, Chris Holgate
Nick Biven ??, 1986 -
Gareth Griffiths 12 May, 1984 AltLd O/S
with Gwion Huws
with Gwion Huws
Hidden ??, 1979 AltLd O/S
mikej 27 Jun, 1976 Lead
with Tony Waite
with Tony Waite
Sean Kelly ??, 1968 -
with Dick Curtis & Paul Chapman
with Dick Curtis & Paul Chapman
Hidden 18 Jun, 1966 Lead
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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 10
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 7
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Soloed
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