8m.

Rockfax Description
8m. The hard wall (4c direct) to a ledge, trend left then direct. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Roaches VDiff's.


ClimberDateStyle
jcurley 21/May 2nd O/S
apana790 13/May Lead O/S

Very hard to protect

Chris Ebbutt 01/May Lead
with Seb
keepguessing 01/May 2nd
with Chris
petecallaghan 29/Apr Lead O/S
Dave192939 29/Apr Solo rpt

Soloed it onsight last week but mistakenly took the easy finish. Gets S 4a in Western Grit. Not V Diff the way I did it.

nvalentine760 09/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr 2nd
Hidden 02/Apr 2nd O/S
kevinlee 02/Apr Lead O/S
Matt Harmon 26/Mar Solo O/S
lily1 02/Oct/16 2nd O/S
with mat
schoogles 23/Sep/16 Lead O/S
dpiddock 30/Jul/16 Solo O/S
rob.swifty 20/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Easy climb but not much protection. Stupidly forgot my belay device.

with Simon Oakden
Hidden 28/May/16 TR O/S
Dafydd Llywelyn 28/May/16 Solo
with Clare Wigley
Hidden 15/May/16 Lead O/S
Jonny M 09/Apr/16 TR O/S
Potemkin 09/Apr/16 TR O/S

Fake trad lead as part of my learn-to-lead weekend. Lead, but with a loose top rope, and had to hang on it at one point when I went too far left below the first muddy platform, rather than snuffling diagonally up and left through the crack. Somewhat baffling start - bouldery and possibly a hold missing as some pink rock where my mind imagined the next hold to be. Bypassed by using the gully on the left.

bigmrp 09/Apr/16 TR
with JM
shell145 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
with Helen
Lmt 03/Apr/16 2nd
with Matt
mattc 03/Apr/16 Lead O/S
jrccrosby 19/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Harry
Rob_Morris1996 05/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Placed a singular nut, should have just gone for the solo.

themattyshep 05/Mar/16 2nd O/S
with Rob M
Philoosh 14/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Remyveness 25/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Ben
TeeKayeWun 17/Oct/15 TR
with Aiden Kerr, Steve vincent
Hidden 11/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/15 2nd O/S
markK6 10/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Simon
Hidden 30/Sep/15 Solo
67hours 26/Sep/15 Solo O/S

Instructing - Elliott + Mads

Capricorn One 30/Aug/15 Lead

No gear, no fun, no point.

with Lynsie Whyke
Andy Hardy 16/Aug/15 Lead O/S
ASkingle 17/Jul/15 2nd O/S

James led to show me where I should have put gear last time. Still not the best protected but nice easy climb.

with James
Hidden 17/Jul/15 Lead O/S
DanChad 05/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Le Chevalier Mal Fet 05/Jul/15 Lead

Only one piece of decent gear towards the top.

Mark Collins 25/Jun/15 Solo O/S
ASkingle 24/Jun/15 Solo

Accidental solo. Tricky start. No where to protect at all until you getting the top. Hand holds nicevonce you get your hands ontonthe darker parts of the rock.

OliWoolland 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Not much gear - used a side runner to protect the start

with Steph
Hidden 07/Jun/15 2nd
Hidden 29/May/15 Solo O/S
FlavioL1989 27/May/15 Solo O/S
gpcomps 27/May/15 2nd O/S
with Mike Hope, Chris Bridgland
Mark Loveday 26/May/15 2nd O/S
with mark s
Rob Royle 19/Apr/15 Lead
with Gav
gavster 19/Apr/15 2nd
Hidden 28/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Nov/14 2nd
John Brayshaw 02/Nov/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead
clairemathews 27/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 20/Sep/14 TR
Hidden 20/Sep/14 2nd
shell145 07/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Ross
FernandoHidalgo 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Not sure if I did the Direct start or not.

sadlerbrett 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Alex Roberts
Big Steve 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Awful route

with Karen
JP78 26/Jul/14 Solo
mky77 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
91dave 14/Jun/14 2nd RP

Tried on Lead, before giving up and re-leading the Rib. Paul then led it fine.

with Paul McCartney
Hidden 14/Jun/14 Lead
Technoguile 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
BenedictIEP 13/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Leleanor93 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Would have climbed a lot better if I hadn't spent so much time trying to place gear that just wasn't there. Scraped my knees pretty well gaining the ledge!

Hidden 05/May/14 Lead O/S
Oliver Houston 03/May/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 12/Apr/14 Lead O/S
deacondeacon 30/Mar/14 Solo O/S
Matt_C9716 26/Mar/14 Lead
kasha_gregson 26/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with matt
Hidden 19/Jan/14 Lead O/S
Purely 02/Jan/14 2nd O/S
with Mat Adams
Hidden 21/Dec/13 2nd
James12389 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Marq 08/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/13 Lead
Ben T@ylor 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Paul Hy 21/Aug/13 2nd rpt
with Laura
cpoad 09/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Used block on right to do starting move

with Derek R (BMC)
CameronH ?/Aug/13 TR O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/13 2nd
Davey569 31/Jul/13 TR O/S
HannahGo 29/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Seb
ClaireD 16/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Paul Hy 16/Jul/13 Lead rpt
lxg613 14/Jul/13 Lead
with Katya
Katya 14/Jul/13 2nd
Paul Hy 13/Jul/13 Solo rpt
RichardLeggett 13/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 09/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Solo
Hidden 13/Apr/13 2nd
quinn sorabjee 16/Feb/13 -
marr.simon 16/Feb/13 TR
schwenk 28/Oct/12 Lead
Ramblin dave 27/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Semi-direct start.

with Akhi, Tom C
mattwyles1 21/Oct/12 Solo O/S
stev1e.wilso 21/Oct/12 2nd O/S
John Brayshaw 21/Oct/12 2nd O/S
Phil Mercer 21/Oct/12 Lead
Hidden 20/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd
hazeysunshine 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Paula
Hidden 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
dbm 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/12 Lead
Paula Ryan ?/Sep/12 2nd
with Hazel
popebenedictus 28/Aug/12 Solo O/S
with Soloed
Bullybones 24/Aug/12 Solo
Hidden 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S
manosand 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
Goose4 06/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Alex Haslehurst
Maken 10/Jun/12 Solo O/S
SarahSumner 04/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd O/S
lenn1346 23/May/12 Lead O/S
with Mark T
jjclarke70 19/May/12 Solo O/S
James_L88 12/May/12 Solo O/S
moorsy88 12/May/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/12 TR
Hidden 14/Apr/12 Lead
MJP 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Tess Shewell
swoollock 05/Apr/12 Lead
cragant 05/Apr/12 Lead
WalnutHorse 25/Mar/12 Solo O/S
buxtoncoffeelover 19/Mar/12 Lead

4b hard start

Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Solo
seanlikeskites 13/Nov/11 2nd O/S

Rich soloed this!

Hidden 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Paul Hy 06/Nov/11 Lead rpt

lead for Nicola

Paul Hy 06/Nov/11 Solo rpt

to get gear

Jo sumner 28/Oct/11 Lead O/S
virgil ?/Oct/11 Lead

shy on gear. fun.

with bcc
dean79 28/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 28/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Brannock 20/Aug/11 Solo O/S
seb m-c 18/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Martin Callaghan
Hidden 10/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Petarghh 09/Aug/11 Solo
Paul Hy 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Tom P, Christine P, Ian
jwpil 03/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
kez1 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
mattgrange 14/Jun/11 2nd

Dad worried me a bit on this one...!

Actionflack 23/Apr/11 TR O/S
TM_Horton 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with addam
Josh_West 19/Mar/11 2nd
Griff1990 19/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/11 2nd β
wave1art 26/Feb/11 Lead O/S
samappears 12/Feb/11 Lead dnf

Got my hands up to bout the 8th dotted line (Western Grit book) before deciding that with the next part being a bit soggy, and not seeing any obvious gear placements (hadn't placed any by here) down climbing wouldn't be a bad thing. Would love to do the route properly another day: had some nice stretchy bits for me upto here. Also, it's listed as S4a, not VD in Western Grit.

andrusht84 29/Jan/11 Solo
rwm7131 28/Nov/10 Lead
with Colin Matthias
iwebster59017 27/Oct/10 Lead O/S
JohnBear 27/Oct/10 2nd
MarkRoe 25/Oct/10 2nd O/S
gilbert 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S

short route no gear for the first half - severe 4a at least!

with Pete Field
elbeanio 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/10 2nd
Hidden 30/Sep/10 Lead
nick221 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 18/Sep/10 Solo O/S
katyc 05/Sep/10 Lead
taps323 ?/Sep/10 Lead
with Nicolas Genevieve
Actionflack ?/Sep/10 TR
Double Knee Bar 25/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Very hard for the grade. unprotected for a VDiff, I'd personally say HVD touching S

Hidden 31/Jul/10 Solo
Hidden 05/Jul/10 2nd O/S
gingerwolf 27/Jun/10 2nd O/S

Did 4b start, nice route

Tonks 07/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead O/S
minus273degrees 12/May/10 2nd
Hidden 10/May/10 Lead O/S
gingergeorge 24/Apr/10 Lead
with 15oth trg
Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/10 2nd
Hidden 13/Apr/10 Lead
Shane-Smith 11/Apr/10 Solo

VD as there was no where for gear this ended up being a solo

with Tiff
Hidden 11/Apr/10 2nd
Gashworth 08/Apr/10 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/10 -
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Lead
Yanis Nayu 13/Mar/10 Lead dnf

Did this as first lead of the year after not climbing trad for 3 months. Thought it was ridiculously hard and lacking protection for a V Diff and sacked it. Found out the route I was trying was a 5b direct start.

with Phil Lucas
Hidden ??/2010 -
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
Wil.Hooke 08/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with Amie
ben comery 02/Nov/09 Lead O/S

short and sweet

with Tom D, Pete W
petay 02/Nov/09 2nd
Hidden 02/Nov/09 2nd RP
Hidden 04/Oct/09 TR
PhilfromPoynton 04/Oct/09 TR O/S

Really nice climb needed to think about it.

dasdo 19/Sep/09 2nd
minaturechris 05/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Chose this one to warm up on and promptly struggled for twenty minutes to gain the ledge.... I managed to crimp off a small feature to gain height with my feet then reached over the ledge to find green slopers. Not quite what I was expecting for a VDiff warm up. Between the group of us we had four different guide books with four different grades ranging from 4a to 5b. The direct start seemed to be the one I did looking at the BMC staffordshire grid guide (VD 5b) but I'm still not 100% on that. All I know is that beginners should be wary about trying the direct start if you expect an easy climb (especially if you are short).

mmalbon 19/Aug/09 TR

Direct start very difficult (i.e. not a VDiff!), used pedestal to right to get up to ledge

with Mick and Simon
Laura-lou 09/Aug/09 2nd
with natalie sandell
Josh Hoyle 08/Aug/09 Solo O/S
JDDD 28/Jun/09 Solo
Ky 25/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Tom H
FrankW 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Alex F
Stoff ?/Jun/09 TR
Byronius Maximus 30/May/09 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 TR
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Solo
Hidden 01/Mar/09 Lead
iamlost 08/Feb/09 TR
phildavies84 08/Feb/09 TR O/S

Bcked off the lead on Saturday. Found out Dave did the same thing back at the hut in the evening!! Dicided to set up a top rope and do it. Getting up to the 1st ldege felt way to hard for the grade. Will have to lead it on the next trip!

with Dave Reeve
Hidden 08/Feb/09 TR O/S
Martyn ??/2009 Lead
Hidden ??/2009 -
Jim Malo 07/Dec/08 2nd
Hidden 07/Dec/08 TR
Hidden 16/Nov/08 TR O/S
jumpingjimminy 27/Sep/08 Lead dnf

backed off due to lack of protection

with Ellie
jumpingjimminy 27/Sep/08 TR RP

Top rope due to lack of lower pitch protection

with Ellie
Nobster ?/Aug/08 AltLd G/U
with Jon ???
hils theaker 30/Jul/08 Lead
with Freddy
Hidden 20/Jul/08 2nd O/S
ianslade 19/Jul/08 Lead β
mmalbon 16/Jul/08 2nd

seemed hard for VDiff and with no gear whatsoever!

with Mick
donkster 16/Jun/08 Solo O/S
cooper leek ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/May/08 Lead O/S
Neil Henson 15/May/08 2nd
with Graham Robinson
Allan Young 03/May/08 2nd β
with Rachel Bull
Hidden 24/Mar/08 Solo O/S
kitch22 27/Feb/08 2nd
with Paul Quinn
Hidden 13/Feb/08 Solo O/S
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
hughr ??/2008 Lead
Theeni 04/Nov/07 Lead O/S

RMAS

naughtybadboy 23/Sep/07 Lead
mintcake 22/Sep/07 2nd
with John Kelly
Calder 02/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 01/Sep/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/07 Solo
Hidden 26/Aug/07 Solo O/S
Chris Lyon 31/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Tom Whitehead
alj 02/Jun/07 Solo
RETICENTFISH 08/May/07 TR O/S

Group session

gb83 13/Apr/07 Lead O/S

gear sparse for the grade but once the ledge id gained the route is in the bag.

with R.Marchand
Mike W 13/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Simon Caldwell 04/Nov/06 Solo O/S
chiverstom 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Direct

with James Baker
richardr ?/Aug/06 Solo
d80f0u 24/Jun/06 Lead
with Kath, Jo
Col_MAN 15/Jun/06 Lead
with Paul Bate
daza 25/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Sam D
John Sergeant ??/2006 Lead
DerwentDiluted 23/Nov/05 Solo
Hidden 12/Nov/05 Lead
Hidden 23/Oct/05 TR
ChrisBrooke 25/Sep/05 2nd
with Emma Simmonds
dk247 05/Sep/05 Lead
with Neil Gregory
spacey ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with jo macey
dannyboy83 ??/2005 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Lev 24/Oct/04 Lead dnf

Not really sure what was going on with this route, but what ever it was I couldn't do it!

with Paul Martin
Smelly Fox 16/Sep/04 Solo O/S
Retroman3 22/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with Yan
Rampikino 07/Aug/04 2nd
with Liz, Ian, Claire, Glyn
John Eley ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
joe king 24/Apr/04 TR
with DanT
DanT 24/Apr/04 TR O/S

Climbed on a top rope placing grear and towing a rope as a prelude to leading

Darrell Read 24/Apr/04 2nd

Poor climb, nasty start

Somerset swede basher ??/2004 Solo O/S
tom_holdsworth 11/Oct/03 Lead
with Will Taylor
Mark Stevenson 19/Jun/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/03 Solo
mark s ??/2003 Solo
Gus 21/Apr/02 Solo
thetourist 28/Jul/01 Lead
craig h 08/Oct/98 Solo O/S
with Jamie Lillieman
Hedley ??/1996 TR
with Ali Parkes
nai ??/1995 Solo
Andy Say 20/Aug/91 Solo
Roget 04/Sep/90 Solo O/S
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Iain Thow 22/Apr/89 Solo
tapley 18/Sep/87 Solo
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??/1980 Solo
mikej 08/Jul/70 Solo
with Stewart Grant
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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
High HD
Mid HD
Low HD
Votes cast 38
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 25
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set