Rockfax Description
12m. A powerful start and a technical groove (pull out right as soon as you can) culminate in an insecure and smeary reach for the top. On the final crucial section, the gear is a little too far away for comfort. Low in the grade though harder for the short. © Rockfax

FA. Jonny Woodward 1977

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit, The List

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Andrew Barker 16 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I found the crux on this harder than the Wings crux but the top move felt easier. It's definitely E5 for the onsight, especially if you don't place the cams in the pocket (which I didn't do as it seemed too far to reach) as the other gear is lower and smaller. The last move is brilliant.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found the crux on this harder than the Wings crux but the top move felt easier. It's definitely E5 for the onsight, especially if you don't place the cams in the pocket (which I didn't do as it seemed too far to reach) as the other gear is lower and smaller. The last move is brilliant.
Aly 5 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Placing the friends is easy, no matter how tall you are. Should this perhaps go down a grade or two?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Placing the friends is easy, no matter how tall you are. Should this perhaps go down a grade or two?
Col Allott 29 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Much better than "Wings...". EVERY move is worth 3 stars. Awesome.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Much better than "Wings...". EVERY move is worth 3 stars. Awesome.
Iggy_B 30 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 3* route without a doubt. All the moves are good and the start is such a contrast.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 3* route without a doubt. All the moves are good and the start is such a contrast.
Ropeboy 4 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Easier than Wings but slightly bolder. The top moves can be dyno'd if you're short as the finishing holds are massive. Probably a bit of a soft touch but a nice one all the same.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Easier than Wings but slightly bolder. The top moves can be dyno'd if you're short as the finishing holds are massive. Probably a bit of a soft touch but a nice one all the same.
mark s 23 Nov, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: if n.t and totc are e5 6b and e5 6a,totc is only worth e4.or n.t is e6,which it aint so totc is e4.if you follow me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: if n.t and totc are e5 6b and e5 6a,totc is only worth e4.or n.t is e6,which it aint so totc is e4.if you follow me.
Nige M 13 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I thought long and hard about the potential fall from the last move and in the end I decided to do it because I was convinced that a quick belayer would prevent a ground fall... however, nobody else there seemed to agree!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought long and hard about the potential fall from the last move and in the end I decided to do it because I was convinced that a quick belayer would prevent a ground fall... however, nobody else there seemed to agree!
Dave Pritchard 10 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A Superb route, which I think merits E5 for an onsight ascent (although I am short).
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A Superb route, which I think merits E5 for an onsight ascent (although I am short).
Ian Patterson 17 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: A superb route on a superb piece of rock (is the best bit of gritsone anywhere), though I would have thought it was generally accepted as easy for E5.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A superb route on a superb piece of rock (is the best bit of gritsone anywhere), though I would have thought it was generally accepted as easy for E5.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
harry_lewis 29 Oct Lead O/S very good
with Dan, alex morris, Jwatson, em hewison
very good
with Dan, alex morris, Jwatson, em hewison
AlexMorris 29 Oct Lead β
Jwatson 29 Oct Lead β
with Dan Bottomley, emilyhewison, harry_lewis, AlexMorris
with Dan Bottomley, emilyhewison, harry_lewis, AlexMorris
Dr Toph 12 Sep Lead β Nothing on here as hard as the bottom of Wings. Top move felt pretty solid and simple after the leap on it's neighbour, just had to ignore how low the gear was. Lovely balancy moves
with salix
Nothing on here as hard as the bottom of Wings. Top move felt pretty solid and simple after the leap on it's neighbour, just had to ignore how low the gear was. Lovely balancy moves
with salix
salix 11 Sep Lead O/S Onsight-ish, plenty of peering from the top. Without gear in pockets on the slab. Last move was much easier knowing I'd covered more distance on Wings.
with Dr Toph
Onsight-ish, plenty of peering from the top. Without gear in pockets on the slab. Last move was much easier knowing I'd covered more distance on Wings.
with Dr Toph
BRoe 2 Sep Lead β
with Anna
with Anna
Hidden 2 Sep Lead
Flavio 23 Feb Lead O/S First E5 this year. Had to wait all day till sunset for it to cool down, it might be Feb - when conditions should be perfect but felt like August. Even then, I still almost cacked the top!
First E5 this year. Had to wait all day till sunset for it to cool down, it might be Feb - when conditions should be perfect but felt like August. Even then, I still almost cacked the top!
JendeHoxar 23 Feb 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Rob Gillespie 18 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S
themattyshep 7 Oct, 2018 Lead rpt
with tghayne
with tghayne
benw681 23 Apr, 2018 Lead lifetime ambition
with Yuki
lifetime ambition
with Yuki
Haydn Jones 6 Oct, 2017 Lead β
Ed morris 6 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S
with Hadyn
with Hadyn
themattyshep 21 May, 2017 Lead O/S REALLY HAPPY with this lead! But don't lead bold things needing a poo!!
with tghayne
REALLY HAPPY with this lead! But don't lead bold things needing a poo!!
with tghayne
George Frisby 30 Apr, 2017 TR RP Got it clean on Top Rope after falling when seconding Cole. Fun contrasting sections of Steep juggy moves to thin delicate slab moves. Amazing sequences past the low down slab pockets and had to jump a little to make the final jugs. Incredible lead by Cole.
Got it clean on Top Rope after falling when seconding Cole. Fun contrasting sections of Steep juggy moves to thin delicate slab moves. Amazing sequences past the low down slab pockets and had to jump a little to make the final jugs. Incredible lead by Cole.
countchalkula 30 Apr, 2017 Lead RP First E5! Good gear, but too low for comfort. Really fun to switch from the jug pulling down low to the tenuous run out smears up top.
First E5! Good gear, but too low for comfort. Really fun to switch from the jug pulling down low to the tenuous run out smears up top.
deacondeacon 5 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S Mega. That gear feels a long, long way. Gritstone distilled.
Mega. That gear feels a long, long way. Gritstone distilled.
ferdia 9 Oct, 2016 Lead RP began as a fairly non committal day but enjoyed toproping this so much that I decided to lead it. andy flashed it. quite positive holds so ok despite it being a bit warm. and the gear is just high enough I think. easier than wings of unreason.
began as a fairly non committal day but enjoyed toproping this so much that I decided to lead it. andy flashed it. quite positive holds so ok despite it being a bit warm. and the gear is just high enough I think. easier than wings of unreason.
Andy Moles 9 Oct, 2016 Lead β Watched Ferdia on TR then had a look at the gear on abseil before leading.
with ferdia
Watched Ferdia on TR then had a look at the gear on abseil before leading.
with ferdia
PeteWilson 20 May, 2016 Lead first propper bold route for ages. happy to finally get it done :)
with Hillson
first propper bold route for ages. happy to finally get it done :)
with Hillson
Hillson 20 May, 2016 2nd
thomas108 ??, 2016 -
bencole ?Jul, 2015 Lead RP Very warm day for this but felt OK when i'd worked that top move.
Very warm day for this but felt OK when i'd worked that top move.
will9911 26 Apr, 2015 Lead β
with Alison
with Alison
Andrew Abraham 17 Apr, 2015 Lead G/U Got the sequence wrong the first time and took a bit of a fall. All sorted the second time round after a bit of hesitation committing to the moves. Great route. https://vimeo.com/125298139
with Ky
Got the sequence wrong the first time and took a bit of a fall. All sorted the second time round after a bit of hesitation committing to the moves. Great route. https://vimeo.com/125298139
with Ky
Ky 17 Apr, 2015 2nd
will9911 22 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S
with Tony Madden
with Tony Madden
Will Hunt 6 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S First E5. Crux could easily be the stand up into the groove. The start of Wings is much harder than any move on this!
with The Nichols Roaches Gathering 2014, conorcussell, Mowglee, footwork, Bert Bridges
First E5. Crux could easily be the stand up into the groove. The start of Wings is much harder than any move on this!
with The Nichols Roaches Gathering 2014, conorcussell, Mowglee, footwork, Bert Bridges
WillDoyle 5 Dec, 2014 Lead O/S
ashtond6 9 Nov, 2014 Lead rpt Wanted to flash it but it was covered in green slime (start and arête). Cleaned it up and it went easily.... first E5! That top move!!!!
Wanted to flash it but it was covered in green slime (start and arête). Cleaned it up and it went easily.... first E5! That top move!!!!
al123 3 Aug, 2014 Lead β
with Henry
with Henry
john lynch 4 Apr, 2014 TR O/S
with Lewis Andrew
with Lewis Andrew
simonfilson 25 Nov, 2013 Lead RP
Mike W 19 Aug, 2013 Lead RP
Alistair Corbett 19 Aug, 2013 Lead RP First e5, buzzing! i top roped it quite abit but still well happy!
with Mike
First e5, buzzing! i top roped it quite abit but still well happy!
with Mike
sgl0jd 19 Apr, 2013 Solo rpt
C coldwell-storry 17 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S didn't have a guide, went the wrong way i think. went right to early, ended up doing some Nature trail /Track link up.
with rob lay
didn't have a guide, went the wrong way i think. went right to early, ended up doing some Nature trail /Track link up.
with rob lay
nimajneb 17 Feb, 2013 Lead O/S Watched C coldwell - Storry do a Nature trail/Track link up thinking it was the route so I did the same.
Watched C coldwell - Storry do a Nature trail/Track link up thinking it was the route so I did the same.
Max Lowry ??, 2013 Solo O/S
Ky ?Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
with Dave H
with Dave H
hamer89 ?Feb, 2012 Lead β really good, great to be back on the grit...felt abit goey even with some of al's knowledge
really good, great to be back on the grit...felt abit goey even with some of al's knowledge
Ky ??, 2012 -
Hidden 15 Oct, 2011 Lead rpt
pipof747 4 Jun, 2011 Lead RP
Wil Treasure 30 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S First E5 onsight. Spicy.
First E5 onsight. Spicy.
i_a_coops 15 Nov, 2010 Lead β
Tom Briggs 24 Oct, 2010 Lead rpt Not bad seconding effort for Rachel @ 5 months pregnant ;-)
with Rachel Briggs
Not bad seconding effort for Rachel @ 5 months pregnant ;-)
with Rachel Briggs
thrutch 24 Oct, 2010 Lead Not on sight as topped it last week, but ground up pplacing gear. Very happy man.
with Ryan
Not on sight as topped it last week, but ground up pplacing gear. Very happy man.
with Ryan
david morse 23 Oct, 2010 2nd β
with phil+rory
with phil+rory
phil64 22 Oct, 2010 - rory dropped me a cheeky runner to clip for last move!! too scared to commit.... next time- oh well there goes the onsight!
with rory shaw, dave morse
rory dropped me a cheeky runner to clip for last move!! too scared to commit.... next time- oh well there goes the onsight!
with rory shaw, dave morse
thrutch 17 Oct, 2010 TR O/S
with Sven
with Sven
donkster 26 Sep, 2010 TR O/S
with jus
with jus
nathanlee 25 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
dominic lee 25 Sep, 2010 Lead rpt Cool lead by nat.
Cool lead by nat.
tigertim 22 Sep, 2010 Lead RP Bloody fantastic - sneaky crack hold around arete near the top is useful.
Bloody fantastic - sneaky crack hold around arete near the top is useful.
Hidden 9 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Gambit 17 Jun, 2010 Lead RP Beautiful warm evening, lots of top rope practice and gear in the holes. Waited to last light for the lead. For me the perfect gritstone experience. BTW 6'3" tall makes the top a little easier!
with barney1
Beautiful warm evening, lots of top rope practice and gear in the holes. Waited to last light for the lead. For me the perfect gritstone experience. BTW 6'3" tall makes the top a little easier!
with barney1
jacobjacob 9 May, 2010 Lead O/S
quiffhanger ?Apr, 2010 Lead β
Boy ?Mar, 2010 -
with Nige Kershaw
with Nige Kershaw
Ebarnes ??, 2010 -
northy1983 ??, 2010 Lead very good
very good
Col Allott 11 Sep, 2009 Solo pretty sure a fairly big hold has gone awol
pretty sure a fairly big hold has gone awol
Mr Wild 4 Jun, 2009 Lead
dannyboy83 11 May, 2009 Solo O/S Thought this was easier than willow farm!
Thought this was easier than willow farm!
NDD 4 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
with Dany
with Dany
daveagriff ??, 2008 TR
Hidden 9 Nov, 2007 Solo O/S
Ram MkiV 18 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S immaculate, sublime, etc. great sequence/moves all the way up from the pockets....
with reeve
immaculate, sublime, etc. great sequence/moves all the way up from the pockets....
with reeve
Jus 28 Sep, 2007 Lead O/S In thick mist in the near dark. Surreal conditions.
In thick mist in the near dark. Surreal conditions.
mark s 15 Sep, 2007 Lead rpt
with jon read andi t
with jon read andi t
sam8oy 8 Sep, 2007 TR O/S Definately come back and lead this one. Its in the bag.
with John
Definately come back and lead this one. Its in the bag.
with John
bronsonite 4 Feb, 2007 Lead β
nathanmanc 3 Nov, 2006 Lead RP
with Chris Todd
with Chris Todd
Hidden 3 Nov, 2006 2nd O/S
Andrew Barker 14 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S I found the crux on this harder than the Wings crux but the top move felt easier. It's definitely E5 for the onsight, especially if you don't place the cams in the pocket (which I didn't do as it seemed too far to reach) as the other gear is lower and smaller. The last move is brilliant.
with Luis
I found the crux on this harder than the Wings crux but the top move felt easier. It's definitely E5 for the onsight, especially if you don't place the cams in the pocket (which I didn't do as it seemed too far to reach) as the other gear is lower and smaller. The last move is brilliant.
with Luis
alaan 6 Aug, 2006 2nd O/S The rain was bothersome, but not as bothersome as for the leader! I'll come back for the lead come winter...maybe.
with Aly
The rain was bothersome, but not as bothersome as for the leader! I'll come back for the lead come winter...maybe.
with Aly
Hidden 7 May, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Jan, 2006 TR O/S
dominic lee 12 Jun, 2005 Lead O/S
with daniel lee
with daniel lee
Iggy_B ?May, 2005 Lead O/S
with Adam Harrison
with Adam Harrison
Ropeboy 20 Feb, 2005 Lead
Ally Smith ??, 2005 Lead O/S Date a guess - with Aly R, Dave, et al
with EmilyG
Date a guess - with Aly R, Dave, et al
with EmilyG
Tom Briggs ??, 2005 Solo O/S
Hidden 10 Feb, 2004 Lead O/S
mark s ??, 2004 Solo rpt
spidey 1 Sep, 2002 Lead RP
with DANNY
with DANNY
Hidden 16 Aug, 2002 TR
nige ??, 2002 Lead β
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
Chris Reid 26 Oct, 2001 Lead O/S
Gus 3 Jul, 2001 Lead
sadams 26 Feb, 2000 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
with John Boyle
Peakology ??, 2000 TR O/S Wish I hadn't t-roped it. Moves r easy 6a
Wish I hadn't t-roped it. Moves r easy 6a
tlr ??, 2000 2nd
Roget 2 Apr, 1999 Lead O/S left hand finish
with jim, jon
left hand finish
with jim, jon
Chris Murray ?Jun, 1998 TR
with Richard Bower
with Richard Bower
Davros the Psyched ??, 1998 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 16 Sep, 1996 Lead
with Al Willoner
with Al Willoner
Neil Amos 15 Apr, 1996 Lead
OMSKB 27 Mar, 1993 TR
with Richard Winfield
with Richard Winfield
andrew300169 5 Jul, 1992 TR O/S
with Tim
with Tim
Jon Read ?Jul, 1992 Solo RP
with Roger Peppe
with Roger Peppe
andrew300169 ??, 1990 -
Sean Kelly ?Jul, 1989 2nd Baking hot day!
with Ian Patterson
Baking hot day!
with Ian Patterson
Hidden 23 Jul, 1987 TR
Seb Grieve 5 Oct, 1986 Lead O/S Low in its grade. Maybe more E4 5c? Superb slab climbing. the top move was very exciting.
Low in its grade. Maybe more E4 5c? Superb slab climbing. the top move was very exciting.
mark mcgowan01 ??, 1986 -
Mark Kemball 9 Feb, 1983 TR
with Paul Clark
with Paul Clark
50 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 65
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 63
Votes cast 60
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set