Rockfax Description
12m. A powerful start and a technical groove (pull out right as soon as you can) culminate in an insecure and smeary reach for the top. On the final crucial section, the gear is a little too far away for comfort. Low in the grade though harder for the short. © Rockfax

FA. Jonny Woodward 1977

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Haydn Jones 06/Oct/17 Lead β
Ed morris 06/Oct/17 Lead O/S
with Hadyn
themattyshep 21/May/17 Lead O/S

REALLY HAPPY with this lead! But don't lead bold things needing a poo!!

with Theo
George Frisby 30/Apr/17 TR RP

Got it clean on Top Rope after falling when seconding Cole. Fun contrasting sections of Steep juggy moves to thin delicate slab moves. Amazing sequences past the low down slab pockets and had to jump a little to make the final jugs. Incredible lead by Cole.

with Cole
Cole Robertson 30/Apr/17 Lead RP

First E5! Good gear, but too low for comfort. Really fun to switch from the jug pulling down low to the tenuous run out smears up top.

deacondeacon 05/Feb/17 Lead O/S

Mega. That gear feels a long, long way. Gritstone distilled.

ferdia 09/Oct/16 Lead RP

began as a fairly non committal day but enjoyed toproping this so much that I decided to lead it. andy flashed it. quite positive holds so ok despite it being a bit warm. and the gear is just high enough I think. easier than wings of unreason.

Andy Moles 09/Oct/16 Lead β

Watched Ferdia on TR then had a look at the gear on abseil before leading.

with Ferdia
PeteWilson 20/May/16 Lead

first propper bold route for ages. happy to finally get it done :)

Hillson 20/May/16 2nd
thomas108 ??/2016 -
bencole ?/Jul/15 Lead RP

Very warm day for this but felt OK when i'd worked that top move.

with Dad
will9911 26/Apr/15 Lead β
with Alison
Andrew Abraham 17/Apr/15 Lead G/U

Got the sequence wrong the first time and took a bit of a fall. All sorted the second time round after a bit of hesitation committing to the moves. Great route.

with Ky
will9911 22/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with Tony Madden
Will Hunt 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S

First E5. Crux could easily be the stand up into the groove. The start of Wings is much harder than any move on this!

with The Nichols Roaches Gathering 2014, Conor Cussell, Gareth Uglow, Ben Finley, Bert Bridges
WillDoyle 05/Dec/14 Lead O/S
ashtond6 09/Nov/14 Lead rpt

Wanted to flash it but it was covered in green slime (start and arête). Cleaned it up and it went easily.... first E5! That top move!!!!

al123 03/Aug/14 Lead β
with Henry
john lynch 04/Apr/14 TR O/S
with Lewis Andrew
simonfilson 25/Nov/13 Lead RP
Mike W 19/Aug/13 Lead RP
Alistair Corbett 19/Aug/13 Lead RP

First e5, buzzing! i top roped it quite abit but still well happy!

with Mike
sgl0jd 19/Apr/13 Solo rpt
C coldwell-storry 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S

didn't have a guide, went the wrong way i think. went right to early, ended up doing some Nature trail /Track link up.

with rob lay
nimajneb 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Watched C coldwell - Storry do a Nature trail/Track link up thinking it was the route so I did the same.

Max Lowry ??/2013 Solo O/S
Ky ?/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Dave H
Ky ??/2012 -
Hidden 15/Oct/11 Lead rpt
pipof747 04/Jun/11 Lead RP
Wil Treasure 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S

First E5 onsight. Spicy.

with Andy Gray
i_a_coops 15/Nov/10 Lead β
with Jacob
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 24/Oct/10 Lead rpt

Not bad seconding effort for Rachel @ 5 months pregnant ;-)

with Rachel Briggs
thrutch 24/Oct/10 Lead

Not on sight as topped it last week, but ground up pplacing gear. Very happy man.

with Ryan
david morse 23/Oct/10 2nd β
with phil+rory
phil64 22/Oct/10 -

rory dropped me a cheeky runner to clip for last move!! too scared to commit.... next time- oh well there goes the onsight!

with rory shaw, dave morse
thrutch 17/Oct/10 TR O/S
with Sven
donkster 26/Sep/10 TR O/S
with jus
nathanlee 25/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Dom Lee
dominic lee 25/Sep/10 Lead rpt

Cool lead by nat.

tigertim 22/Sep/10 Lead RP

Bloody fantastic - sneaky crack hold around arete near the top is useful.

Hidden 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Gambit 17/Jun/10 Lead RP

Beautiful warm evening, lots of top rope practice and gear in the holes. Waited to last light for the lead. For me the perfect gritstone experience. BTW 6'3" tall makes the top a little easier!

with Barney
jacobjacob 09/May/10 Lead O/S
quiffhanger ?/Apr/10 Lead β
Boy ?/Mar/10 -
with Nige Kershaw
Ebarnes ??/2010 -
northy1983 ??/2010 Lead

very good

Col Allott 11/Sep/09 Solo

pretty sure a fairly big hold has gone awol

Mr Wild 04/Jun/09 Lead
dannyboy83 11/May/09 Solo O/S

Thought this was easier than willow farm!

NDD 04/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Dany
daveagriff ??/2008 TR
Hidden 09/Nov/07 Solo O/S
Ram MkiV 18/Oct/07 Lead O/S

immaculate, sublime, etc. great sequence/moves all the way up from the pockets....

with reeve
Jus 28/Sep/07 Lead O/S

In thick mist in the near dark. Surreal conditions.

mark s 15/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with jon read andi t
sam8oy 08/Sep/07 TR O/S

Definately come back and lead this one. Its in the bag.

with John
bronsonite 04/Feb/07 Lead β
nathanmanc 03/Nov/06 Lead RP
with Chris Todd
Hidden 03/Nov/06 2nd O/S
Andrew Barker 14/Oct/06 Lead O/S

I found the crux on this harder than the Wings crux but the top move felt easier. It's definitely E5 for the onsight, especially if you don't place the cams in the pocket (which I didn't do as it seemed too far to reach) as the other gear is lower and smaller. The last move is brilliant.

with Luis
alaan 06/Aug/06 2nd O/S

The rain was bothersome, but not as bothersome as for the leader! I'll come back for the lead come winter...maybe.

with Aly
Hidden 29/Jan/06 TR O/S
dominic lee 12/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with daniel lee
Iggy_B ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Adam Harrison
Ropeboy 20/Feb/05 Lead
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Feb/04 Lead O/S
mark s ??/2004 Solo rpt
Hidden 16/Aug/02 TR
nige ??/2002 Lead β
with mark hounslea
Chris Reid 26/Oct/01 Lead O/S
Gus 03/Jul/01 Lead
sadams 26/Feb/00 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
Peakology ??/2000 TR O/S

Wish I hadn't t-roped it. Moves r easy 6a

with cat
tlr ??/2000 2nd
Roget 02/Apr/99 Lead O/S

left hand finish

with jim, jon
Chris Murray ?/Jun/98 TR
with Richard Bower
Davros the Psyched ??/1998 Solo O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 16/Sep/96 Lead
with Al Willoner
OMSKB 27/Mar/93 TR
with Richard Winfield
andrew300169 05/Jul/92 TR O/S
with Tim
Jon Read ?/Jul/92 Solo RP
with Roger Peppe
andrew300169 ??/1990 -
Sean Kelly ?/Jul/89 2nd

Baking hot day!

with Ian Patterson
Hidden 23/Jul/87 TR
mark mcgowan01 ??/1986 -
Mark Kemball 09/Feb/83 TR
with Paul Clark
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 60
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 58
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set