Rockfax Description
10m. A thin crack leads with difficulty (and good runners) into the easier twisting fissure above and often via some bird plop. © Rockfax

FFA. Martin Boysen 1968

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Roaches HVS Challenge.

Hidden 15/Oct Lead G/U
Mr Wild 15/Jun 2nd O/S
with Rob Kinsey
Rob Kinsey 15/Jun Lead
with IanW
James Worthington 03/Dec/16 Lead

Couldn't figure out the crux so Joe had a go, almost made it, then it was my turn, somehow made it up on the first attempt!

with Joe
Hidden 02/Nov/16 Lead dnf
Graeme Hammond 02/Nov/16 Lead rpt

fell off entering the groove first go (ended up lay-backing 2nd go), led from ground with gear pre clipped (naughty) but made amends by soloing trailing a rope to get the gear out after Matts lead attempt right up to the last crack when I thought perhaps it would be better to place 1 piece of gear hence the lead rpt. A good route route that is too hard to be E1 hence it is HVS!

with Matt G
Robin Nichols 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Roger
Rosie Henstock 27/Jul/16 Lead dog

Tom and I both had a few attempts at the start. Eventually committed to the rather strenuous crux move and managed to rock up on to the little flake and into the groove using heads, shoulders, knees and toes! Epic rock over moves above and a well positioned finished! Well protected and really fun.

TGreen 27/Jul/16 2nd β

Seeing Rosie do it first really helped!

gavster 24/May/16 2nd
with kev
mapperley samurai 24/May/16 Lead

3rd visit to this so chuffed to finally get it. Been doing it totally wrong the first 2 attempts. Secret unlocked. Not so hard when the sequence is figured out.

Rob Gillespie 10/Apr/15 Lead O/S


danJBA 19/May/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Brockwell
pipof747 05/May/14 Lead O/S
markalmack 29/Dec/13 Solo O/S
monsteratt 10/Nov/13 Lead RP

Took me a few goes to workout the move getting into the groove. Very Good!

with Dan Fairbank, Nick Whimster, Andrew Abraham
Hidden 10/Nov/13 2nd
Andrew Abraham 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Nice move to get into the grove!

with Ceara
manwithacam 08/Sep/13 2nd

hard first moves indeed

with Mike R
PeteWilson 07/Jun/13 Lead

great route, had tried the start before and not managed it, it just went tonight tho!

with Dave
RamblingRyan 14/Oct/12 2nd
with Danny, Col
dannyboy83 11/Oct/12 Solo O/S
Alex@home 02/May/12 2nd O/S

deserves more than 1 star. tough for hvs but probably not quite e1

with The Doctor
Hidden 12/Nov/11 TR RP
Boy 06/Nov/11 Solo
fennerz 16/Oct/11 Solo O/S
with Sean Grady
Dave Rumney 04/Sep/11 -
with Tanya Milner
vanderz 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Chris Harding 20/Jul/11 Lead RP

This is given HVS in Roaches guidebook though it was appropriate. First section was tricky trying to pull into the corner but after several attempts managed it and then really enjoy the exposed move around the nose and nice finish.

with Danny
NB Pixel 17/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Nice moves off the ground, but completely horrified by move off the block and the same move repelled 5 more of our party- all significantly better climbers than I!

with Mick
Rob Davies 14/Mar/11 Lead dnf


with Phil Ashton
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
caradoc 17/Oct/09 Lead

It took a few attempts.

with emma v.
mark s 22/Oct/07 Solo O/S
with andi t
Jon Read 02/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Tuesday nighter action.

with Frank the Decorator
jimshrimp 09/Jul/04 Lead O/S
Gus 16/Jun/04 Lead
Roget 06/Apr/02 Solo rpt
Hidden ??/1998 Lead RP
Roget 19/Jun/96 Lead rpt
crossleysm ?/Sep/95 Solo O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/90 2nd
Roget ??/1989 2nd O/S
with jim
Hidden 26/May/87 2nd O/S
Mark Kemball 13/Sep/81 Solo
Mark Kemball 11/May/77 Solo dnf
6 users have this on their wishlist
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 11
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set