Restricted Access
Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.
GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.
North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made.
All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 15 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.
Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)
Rockfax Description
Continuously loose and could be dangerous - you have been warned! Start on the huge flat ledge.
1) 4c, 10m. Head up the wall to a ledge and follow this right until the large belay ledge above can be gained and a bolted belay.
2) 6a, 25m. Climb up and then left before continuing to a short finish wall on better rock. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
See http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/newroutes/nr-sw-lowerwyevalley.html
This takes an unhealthy line up the central part of the repellent, blocky grey wall. Its appearance is not deceptive (some long quick-draws useful). Start from the middle of the broad platform.
Pitch descriptions:
1. 10m F4. Climb a short bare wall to a ledge and traverse this rightwards carefully until it is possible to step up onto an ample belay ledge and 2BB.
2. 25m F6a MXS. Follow the line of bolt runners as closely as possible and try to avoid touching too much of the surroundings. Climb directly above the belay, very gently, then, after the third bolt, swing left to better holds. Continue straight up to a ledge exercising greater caution than mass and take a welcome rest. The worst is now over; after a few more moves better rock presents itself and the finish is a pleasure.
Gordon Jenkin, Tony Penning (both led), Yvonne Jones, Ali Taylor 25/May/2009.
Ticklists
All multi-pitch sport routes (England and Wales)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ale152 | 30 Oct, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Do not climb. This should have a skull on the guidebook. There are only a handful of holds that you can pull, everything else WILL break. Finding out the right ones is like a Russian roulette. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Do not climb. This should have a skull on the guidebook. There are only a handful of holds that you can pull, everything else WILL break. Finding out the right ones is like a Russian roulette. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Wintour's Leap
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