UKC

Restricted Access

An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.

While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy. 

Start as for 'Fat Cat Roof' and move up rightwards to finish on crimps and edges left of Launch Pad. These are the same edges as are used for the finish of Saluki. Grade varies depending on height. Thought to be 7C+ for using low right footholds for crux iron cross move. 8A+ for using foothold used by FA originally.

Liam Fyfe 2009.

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Voting
High f8B
Mid f8B
Low f8B
High f8A+
Mid f8A+
Low f8A+
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Groove Society

Grade: f8A+ ***
(Bacon Hole)

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