44m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5a, 12m. Make a hard (5b?) first move to gain a left-slanting crack/ramp-line then continue to a grassy landing onto a stance under a bulge.
Original Start, VS 4c - Start up Conclusor then traverse diagonally right to the stance. Very scruffy now, but it avoids that first move.
2) 4c, 30m. Climb the groove above to a bulge. Pass this and climb the continuation groove, making good use of its right wall, to join and finish up the final section of Medusa. © Rockfax

FA. D Johnson, D Mellor 1960

Ticklists

Peak Rock/10/White Life, Limestone Trad days out

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UserDateNotes
Pan Ron 20 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Second the above comment. Horrific allergic reactions to something in the area, the direct start of the first pitch was very tricky (more in the region of 5a) and vegetation everywhere. A pity as the second pitch seemed like a lot of fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second the above comment. Horrific allergic reactions to something in the area, the direct start of the first pitch was very tricky (more in the region of 5a) and vegetation everywhere. A pity as the second pitch seemed like a lot of fun.
DrGav 19 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: We only did the direct start - so can't really compare - but have to disagree with the above comment. The 5a start that we did was hard, polished, loose and vegetated. Hated it. Now i think of it though, there was another flake directly below the belay point - maybe that was the direct start? On a separate, altho partially related note, for anyone with hayfever - this route/area in mid-June gave me and my mate the most horrendous allergic reaction. Think atrocious sneezing, puffed eyes and worst of all - red swollen itchy bumps all over our arms, shoulders and back of the neck.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: We only did the direct start - so can't really compare - but have to disagree with the above comment. The 5a start that we did was hard, polished, loose and vegetated. Hated it. Now i think of it though, there was another flake directly below the belay point - maybe that was the direct start? On a separate, altho partially related note, for anyone with hayfever - this route/area in mid-June gave me and my mate the most horrendous allergic reaction. Think atrocious sneezing, puffed eyes and worst of all - red swollen itchy bumps all over our arms, shoulders and back of the neck.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Al Evans ??, 2018 Lead
with paul nunn
with paul nunn
Jonnaylor 28 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with Jim Jarvis
with Jim Jarvis
Hidden 4 Oct, 2016 2nd dog
Luke90 4 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S Start definitely feels worth 5b.
Start definitely feels worth 5b.
sopaz 11 Sep, 2016 AltLd P2
P2
admackie 11 Sep, 2016 Lead p1 and a weird finish pitch
with sopaz
p1 and a weird finish pitch
with sopaz
max_chan 24 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S I led P1. Direct start. Crux was fine. Hard pull but well protected. Found it scary a bit higher up as overgrown and difficult to find anything solid to hold onto.
with samkat
I led P1. Direct start. Crux was fine. Hard pull but well protected. Found it scary a bit higher up as overgrown and difficult to find anything solid to hold onto.
with samkat
Hidden 24 Jul, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 25 Jun, 2015 AltLd
DMC 25 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1.
with Paul Deane
Led pitch 1.
with Paul Deane
kushan.vyas ?Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Dec, 2014 2nd
Andy Clarke 28 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S With the RH variant start, which looks much better than the orginal. Stiff 5a moves to leave ground, and another tricky section to get to the bush wrestling move onto the ledge. Good climbing & solid HVS like this for me. Led P1.
with rob1
With the RH variant start, which looks much better than the orginal. Stiff 5a moves to leave ground, and another tricky section to get to the bush wrestling move onto the ledge. Good climbing & solid HVS like this for me. Led P1.
with rob1
rob1 28 Sep, 2014 AltLd
James Oswald 9 Aug, 2014 2nd Clare was on this by accident instead of being on P1 of Medusa. She then traversed back to Medusa.
Clare was on this by accident instead of being on P1 of Medusa. She then traversed back to Medusa.
Maia 3 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S Nice despite the garden patches
Nice despite the garden patches
Jim Slater 3 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S In one pitch.The 5a RH start
with Maia
In one pitch.The 5a RH start
with Maia
Hidden 3 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
madasten 28 Sep, 2013 Lead Hard first few moves then it's a VS cruise to the top. Pleasant moves pulling past the bulge on pitch 2, on massive holds but in a nice position. I love this place!
with Rick
Hard first few moves then it's a VS cruise to the top. Pleasant moves pulling past the bulge on pitch 2, on massive holds but in a nice position. I love this place!
with Rick
DanielGyi 7 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S Decent climbing but pretty overgrown. Would be fantastic without the grassy ledges.
with hlegge
Decent climbing but pretty overgrown. Would be fantastic without the grassy ledges.
with hlegge
Fragmod 7 Aug, 2013 2nd
Hidden 7 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
hlegge 7 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S first moves were fun, then the climbing was sporadic nice rock with lots of grassy ledges.
first moves were fun, then the climbing was sporadic nice rock with lots of grassy ledges.
pbuggy91 7 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Andrew Sloan 2 Jun, 2013 Lead Stiff 5a starting move. A bit vegetated and scruffy mid route.Did as one pitch.Solid HVS if 5a start done.
Stiff 5a starting move. A bit vegetated and scruffy mid route.Did as one pitch.Solid HVS if 5a start done.
Hidden 22 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Fragmod 4 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26 Feb, 2012 Lead O/S
RM199 ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jul, 2010 AltLd
peter myers ?Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Mat Dalby
with Mat Dalby
andrzej kierzek 18 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Climbed with David Brosnan. I lead both pitches
Climbed with David Brosnan. I lead both pitches
Happy Wanderer 27 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Ken led 1st 5apitch, led 4c 2nd pitch
with Ken T
Ken led 1st 5apitch, led 4c 2nd pitch
with Ken T
tri-nitro-tuolumne 18 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Rob Truckle
with Rob Truckle
Ketu 18 Sep, 2009 AltLd O/S Direct start lead
Direct start lead
Hidden 2 Aug, 2009 Lead
paulstrutt01 28 Sep, 2008 2nd dog
trish1968 28 Sep, 2008 2nd dnf
with Jonathon and Paul
with Jonathon and Paul
dashitboarder 3 Aug, 2008 Lead dog Lead first pitch of direct start after dad had placed a couple of pieces of gear in but failed to get any further. One unnecessary rest on the rope and much scrambling up shrubbery (other posters identify as an elderflower bush) led to belay point. Tried to escape off left as second pitch looking too green but no path at the top! Ended up abseiling off block.
Lead first pitch of direct start after dad had placed a couple of pieces of gear in but failed to get any further. One unnecessary rest on the rope and much scrambling up shrubbery (other posters identify as an elderflower bush) led to belay point. Tried to escape off left as second pitch looking too green but no path at the top! Ended up abseiling off block.
djp1 25 Aug, 2007 2nd
with Greg
with Greg
Different Steve 2 Jun, 2007 AltLd O/S Direct start, basically 5b, with an unpleasant pull onto belay ledge via an elderflower bush!
with Simon Curtis
Direct start, basically 5b, with an unpleasant pull onto belay ledge via an elderflower bush!
with Simon Curtis
Martin Haworth ?Oct, 2006 Lead O/S
with Richard
with Richard
Dave Mason ?May, 2005 Lead O/S
with Andrew Roach
with Andrew Roach
Hidden ?May, 2004 Lead O/S
Phill Mitch ??, 2004 Lead O/S
with john d
with john d
Iain Brown 26 Apr, 2003 -
with Ricardo
with Ricardo
marcoleptic ??, 2000 Lead
Chris Murray 24 Jun, 1997 AltLd
with Richard Bower
with Richard Bower
barney@helmshore 9 Jun, 1996 2nd
with simon
with simon
Hidden ?Jul, 1994 2nd
malc 5 Jun, 1994 AltLd
Neil McA 19 Feb, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Nick Marriot
with Nick Marriot
leathers 10 Apr, 1993 Lead O/S Did the alternative 5b start- very good!
with Ron Caves
Did the alternative 5b start- very good!
with Ron Caves
Iain Thow 12 Mar, 1993 Lead Started up first pitch of Conclusor as it looked much cleaner.
with Christine King
Started up first pitch of Conclusor as it looked much cleaner.
with Christine King
SimonN 1 Jun, 1992 AltLd
roncaves 23 May, 1992 Lead
with Caroline Upton
with Caroline Upton
Rob Davies 8 Jun, 1991 AltLd Direct start
with Angus McLean
Direct start
with Angus McLean
Rog Wilko ?Mar, 1990 Lead
with Debbie Wilkinson
with Debbie Wilkinson
Nick Rundall ??, 1990 Lead O/S
steve prior ?May, 1988 Lead
with Dave T
with Dave T
babymoac 23 Jun, 1985 Lead
with MTW
with MTW
jon ??, 1985 -
Hidden 3 Jul, 1984 2nd
Hidden 29 Apr, 1984 2nd
Martin Bennett 26 Aug, 1982 -
with JD
with JD
steveb2006 21 Feb, 1982 2nd
with Mervyn Dudley
with Mervyn Dudley
Nic Robinson 25 Jun, 1981 Solo O/S
Chris Terrey ??, 1981 2nd
with Mike Morrison
with Mike Morrison
Brian Wilderspin 6 Apr, 1980 AltLd O/S
with Dave Winter
with Dave Winter
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Nigel Bond 6 Jul, 1979 Lead
with Martin Crosby
with Martin Crosby
duncan ?Oct, 1978 Lead O/S
tapley 6 Aug, 1978 Lead
with Alison Tapley
with Alison Tapley
Hidden 3 Apr, 1977 Lead
Hidden 2 Nov, 1975 AltLd rpt
Hidden 26 Jun, 1975 Lead
Andy Say ??, 1975 Lead O/S
Dave Westby ??, 1972 Lead O/S
with Phil Caley
with Phil Caley
mikej 13 Nov, 1971 Lead
with E C/W
with E C/W
jcw 17 May, 1970 AltLd
with Mike Westmacott
with Mike Westmacott
tutbury ?Jul, 1969 -
with Ian Butterworth, Fred Graham
with Ian Butterworth, Fred Graham
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 14
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set