UKC

Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

Rockfax Description
Use a clipstick for the first bolt to avoid an ankle-snapping start. Otherwise it is more like an E4 6a. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A sequency undercut start leads up to the steep headwall past four bolt runners. E4 6a / French 6c with preclipped first bolt.

Tony Hughes, Oli Cain. 2008.

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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Zone of Totality

Grade: 6c+ ***
(Minllyn Quarry)

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