There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
Use a clipstick for the first bolt to avoid an ankle-snapping start. Otherwise it is more like an E4 6a. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A sequency undercut start leads up to the steep headwall past four bolt runners. E4 6a / French 6c with preclipped first bolt.
Tony Hughes, Oli Cain. 2008.
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Grade: 6c+ ***
(Minllyn Quarry)