UKC

Restricted Access

The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies from Flying Doctor The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).

56m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Short-lived and unbalanced but it follows a strong natural line.
1) 5a, 28m. Take pitch 1 of The Thorn to the chains.
2) 5b, 28m. Scramble along the cave (stance) then make tricky moves along the break to a big hole (on Black Grub). Enter a steep groove which soon eases at a fixed belay for abseil. © Rockfax

FA. John Sumner late 1950s 1957.

Ticklists

Peak Traverses

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User Date Notes
FrankieMac 12 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There is a pencil note in my guide from 1998, just says ‘desperate for HVS’ !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is a pencil note in my guide from 1998, just says ‘desperate for HVS’ !

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Beeston Tor

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 6
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Mincer

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)

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