Rockfax Description
Good fun and almost a sport route at about 6b if you clip gear on the previous route. Climb the groove past some threadable pockets and the remains of the old pint-pot handle hold, to blanker rock. Press on up this to join The Spider. Finish up this or lower off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Strip back any new growth on the ivy as you go past as it can hide a foothold which makes getting across to the jug handle a fair bit easier!

FA. Gary Gibson 1983

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Fiend 19 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Where's the French grade option? F6b+, I reckon - features some pretty steep and stiff pulls on the pockets, and fairly sustained for it's height. Worth 2 stars as everyone seems to think.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Where's the French grade option? F6b+, I reckon - features some pretty steep and stiff pulls on the pockets, and fairly sustained for it's height. Worth 2 stars as everyone seems to think.
andi turner 23 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Effectively a clip up, and a really good route. The pint pot handle IS still there! I don't know where they got the idea it had gone from?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Effectively a clip up, and a really good route. The pint pot handle IS still there! I don't know where they got the idea it had gone from?
Ropeboy 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: You just need 6 quickdraws for this, the threads seem to have been recently replaced, but hard to get to the foot of the climb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You just need 6 quickdraws for this, the threads seem to have been recently replaced, but hard to get to the foot of the climb.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Crews Arête 12 May Lead rpt
with Mark S
with Mark S
Hidden 13 Apr Lead O/S
Dean.p.92 24 Feb 2nd O/S
with Alex A
with Alex A
Greg Cunningham 24 Feb Lead rpt
with Frances Taylor
with Frances Taylor
rene 17 Feb Lead rpt
Hidden 17 Feb TR
Stoney Boy 7 Oct, 2018 2nd rpt
with debsb
with debsb
dominic lee 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with debsb, Stoney Boy, daniel lee
with debsb, Stoney Boy, daniel lee
debsb 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
with Daniel Lee, Stoney Boy, dominic lee
with Daniel Lee, Stoney Boy, dominic lee
Hidden 29 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
phil64 28 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S With threads in 6b..... Haha Lol ! , E3 6a and very good maybe a butch 6c and very pumpy with it! Thx to GG for replacing kit????
with Rach
With threads in 6b..... Haha Lol ! , E3 6a and very good maybe a butch 6c and very pumpy with it! Thx to GG for replacing kit????
with Rach
harold walmsley 24 Sep, 2018 2nd dog Disappointing. Used to find this OK but had to dog it today.
with Mark Hounslea
Disappointing. Used to find this OK but had to dog it today.
with Mark Hounslea
Stoney Boy 24 Sep, 2018 2nd rpt
with Nickc
with Nickc
Nickc 24 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Aug, 2018 Lead β
spidey 14 Aug, 2018 Lead β Four in-situ threads. Thin for feet before the lower off, bit pumpy but worthwhile. Lead with Jims draws in
Four in-situ threads. Thin for feet before the lower off, bit pumpy but worthwhile. Lead with Jims draws in
jimbonfire 14 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S quite a few threads, steep & pumpy for a short route.
with spidey
quite a few threads, steep & pumpy for a short route.
with spidey
The Grist 28 May, 2018 Lead RP So hot.......
So hot.......
clanger ??, 2018 -
Gary Gibson 7 Dec, 2017 - Recleaned from the encroaching ivy, completely re-equipped and new bolt belay added as per agreement with the National Trust.
Recleaned from the encroaching ivy, completely re-equipped and new bolt belay added as per agreement with the National Trust.
rosiehawker 2 Sep, 2017 2nd Attempted it on lead but backed off
with mikeski
Attempted it on lead but backed off
with mikeski
deacondeacon 9 Jul, 2017 Lead G/U Missed a juggy pocket and came off. Went ok second go.
Missed a juggy pocket and came off. Went ok second go.
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 22 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S don't think the old threads would hold a fall. didn't have enough cord to replace them.
with Roisin
don't think the old threads would hold a fall. didn't have enough cord to replace them.
with Roisin
Mike_Hayes 25 Mar, 2016 Lead
with ChrisC
with ChrisC
GouldHarry ??, 2016 Lead O/S
Misha 4 May, 2015 Lead O/S Wasn't entirely sure where to go so went out right to the peg on the arête of the cave, got a purple friend in a pocket above and traversed across to the jug handle on 2-3 finger pockets and very poor feet. Not much of a rest at the jug handle so moved up from there to a sort of rest below the slight bulge. Decisive moves through that saw me to the top, just about - came close to getting a bit desperate! A good route which packs a punch. Thought it was a hard E3 5c. Jon said he'd done it before on someone else's gear and it felt F6b. I said he must have been going well! This is not a sport route (the threads alone would make for a very bold route and they all need replacing anyway), nor is it F6b - more like F6c! Lowering off I stripped off some of the ivy, which revealed a couple of footholds below the jug handle, which would have made life a lot easier! There might be a more direct way to get to the jug handle but Jon did the same as me and it was solid at the grade. Have backed up the upper lower off with 6mm cord but would be good to get a rope on it. The first lower off you get to is total mank, should have cut it down.
Wasn't entirely sure where to go so went out right to the peg on the arête of the cave, got a purple friend in a pocket above and traversed across to the jug handle on 2-3 finger pockets and very poor feet. Not much of a rest at the jug handle so moved up from there to a sort of rest below the slight bulge. Decisive moves through that saw me to the top, just about - came close to getting a bit desperate! A good route which packs a punch. Thought it was a hard E3 5c. Jon said he'd done it before on someone else's gear and it felt F6b. I said he must have been going well! This is not a sport route (the threads alone would make for a very bold route and they all need replacing anyway), nor is it F6b - more like F6c! Lowering off I stripped off some of the ivy, which revealed a couple of footholds below the jug handle, which would have made life a lot easier! There might be a more direct way to get to the jug handle but Jon did the same as me and it was solid at the grade. Have backed up the upper lower off with 6mm cord but would be good to get a rope on it. The first lower off you get to is total mank, should have cut it down.
Duncan Campbell 22 Mar, 2015 Lead O/S Blimey. First route of the season, sketched my way up this getting very flash pumped in the process! The hard climbing is very intense with poor feet around the 'jug handle'. Threads could do with being replaced, all very sun bleached and some very thin.
with Wft
Blimey. First route of the season, sketched my way up this getting very flash pumped in the process! The hard climbing is very intense with poor feet around the 'jug handle'. Threads could do with being replaced, all very sun bleached and some very thin.
with Wft
Hidden 13 Apr, 2014 Lead RP
Mike_Hayes 16 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S did start of E1 into E3 - left guide over other side of crag.
with dan parkes
did start of E1 into E3 - left guide over other side of crag.
with dan parkes
Alex@home 4 Jul, 2013 2nd dog
with The Doctor
with The Doctor
crossleysm ??, 2013 Lead
ejected ??, 2013 -
w.pettet-smith 18 Aug, 2012 - think we managed to go between the e1 and e3, out of reach of both sets of threads. spicy!
with ben
think we managed to go between the e1 and e3, out of reach of both sets of threads. spicy!
with ben
Hidden 12 May, 2012 Lead
Mike Hegarty 1 Apr, 2012 Lead dog Need to get back and try this one again..!
with Dave
Need to get back and try this one again..!
with Dave
Ram MkiV 25 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with Guy
with Guy
Hidden 25 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Mar, 2012 Lead β
Andrew Barker ??, 2012 2nd
chrishedgehog 17 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
with James Rees
with James Rees
Stig 17 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Quality - two stars def. Flash, on Chris's gear. We replaced one of the threads, the old ones need cutting out, the rest are ok.
with Chris
Quality - two stars def. Flash, on Chris's gear. We replaced one of the threads, the old ones need cutting out, the rest are ok.
with Chris
Rachel Slater 21 May, 2011 Lead O/S not much harder than solution pollution
with Nigel Slater
not much harder than solution pollution
with Nigel Slater
BeccaSnowden 24 Apr, 2011 2nd dog So hard!
So hard!
thomasadixon 24 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Wicked climbing.
Wicked climbing.
Somerset swede basher 26 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S The insitu threads are looking very old now, worth doing the E1 on the left then abbing down to replace a few.
with Dan Lane
The insitu threads are looking very old now, worth doing the E1 on the left then abbing down to replace a few.
with Dan Lane
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
Brian Rodgers 15 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Bit of a clip up.
Bit of a clip up.
philhilo 15 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S Just as I remember
Just as I remember
Hidden 20 Sep, 2008 2nd
jondude ??, 2008 Lead O/S
Boy ??, 2006 -
Dave Bond ??, 2004 Lead O/S
with charles
with charles
AlexRenshaw 20 Mar, 2003 Lead
with Ted Lister
with Ted Lister
Hidden 10 Apr, 2002 2nd
goshawk 1 Sep, 2001 Lead
with Rob
with Rob
steveb2006 13 Feb, 2000 Lead RP Fall off initially - restart
with Gareth Williams
Fall off initially - restart
with Gareth Williams
tuftynick ??, 2000 Lead
David Slater ?Oct, 1999 Lead
with Banbury MC
with Banbury MC
craig h 20 Apr, 1999 2nd
with Nez
with Nez
steveb2006 21 Mar, 1999 Lead Both lead
with Neville Contractor
Both lead
with Neville Contractor
Pete Wimbush ??, 1998 2nd
with Kev Little
with Kev Little
steveb2006 6 Apr, 1997 Lead
with Terry Thornton
with Terry Thornton
andy_pemberton 27 May, 1996 Lead
with Noel
with Noel
steveb2006 10 Dec, 1995 Lead Duncan belays only
with Duncan Stewart
Duncan belays only
with Duncan Stewart
Daniel Wrightson 13 May, 1995 Lead
with Simon
with Simon
mattnuttall 27 Nov, 1994 Lead O/S
with Rupert Gladstone
with Rupert Gladstone
Neil McA 30 Jan, 1994 2nd rpt
with Andy Cave
with Andy Cave
Spottykidfromstourbridge ??, 1994 Lead O/S
steveb2006 18 Sep, 1993 Lead
with Ian Cartwright
with Ian Cartwright
D Tempest 22 Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
with Rick
with Rick
nai ??, 1993 Lead
steveb2006 17 Oct, 1992 Lead
Hidden 4 Sep, 1992 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Aug, 1992 Lead O/S
Roget 4 Aug, 1992 Lead rpt
tlr 18 May, 1992 2nd
andrew300169 16 May, 1992 Lead RP
with Woz
with Woz
andybirtwistle 2 May, 1992 Lead
Neil McA 4 Apr, 1992 2nd rpt
with Andy Perkins
with Andy Perkins
whispering nic ??, 1992 Lead O/S
with Graham Iles
with Graham Iles
steveb2006 6 Oct, 1991 Lead
with Simon Mee
with Simon Mee
Hidden 11 May, 1991 Lead
Alan Scowcroft 5 May, 1990 2nd dog
Bruce Kerr 25 Mar, 1990 Lead
with Rab Young
with Rab Young
Hidden ??, 1990 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 Dec, 1989 Lead O/S
scree ?Sep, 1989 -
tapley 27 Jul, 1989 2nd
with Phil Jarvis
with Phil Jarvis
steveb2006 29 May, 1989 Lead dog Fall off
with Chris Grafton
Fall off
with Chris Grafton
Will Webb 30 Apr, 1989 Lead
with Mark Cole
with Mark Cole
Hidden ??, 1989 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 10 Dec, 1988 2nd
with Dor? Green
with Dor? Green
Cog ?Sep, 1988 2nd
Hidden 29 May, 1988 AltLd
Stoney Boy 28 Nov, 1987 Lead O/S
with Gareth James, Neil Binns
with Gareth James, Neil Binns
goshawk ?Oct, 1987 Lead
Hidden 26 Sep, 1987 2nd
Eduardo Martinez 12 Jul, 1987 Lead O/S
Billg 12 Apr, 1987 Lead O/S
with Liam Grant
with Liam Grant
Hidden 22 Mar, 1987 2nd
Hidden 23 Jan, 1987 Lead
Derek Furze ??, 1987 Lead
Neil McA 6 Oct, 1986 Lead O/S
with Dave Wills
with Dave Wills
Hidden 4 Oct, 1986 2nd
sadams ?Aug, 1986 Lead
with Colin from Stoney
with Colin from Stoney
Hidden ??, 1986 Lead O/S
Hidden 2 May, 1985 Lead
Hidden 5 Apr, 1985 -
UKB Shark 6 Mar, 1985 Lead
with Steve Senior
with Steve Senior
Ian Clare ??, 1985 -
Hidden 16 Sep, 1984 2nd
Steve Clegg 22 Jul, 1984 -
with Howard
with Howard
neilh 23 Jun, 1984 2nd
Mark Kemball 9 Feb, 1984 Lead
with Hugh Stuart
with Hugh Stuart
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead
Andy Edgar ??, 1980 -
with Hugh Woodland, Mick Hardwick
with Hugh Woodland, Mick Hardwick
uphillnow ??, 1980 -
with Andrew (Pog) Horn
with Andrew (Pog) Horn
6 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 18
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set