UKC

400m, 20 pitches. Fully bolted climb (F5+) which takes a direct line on the south face of the mountain, and tops out on the summit. A photo topo can be found here: http://www.refuge-glacier-blanc.com/refuge-glacier-blanc-massif-des-ecrins/course-ete/escalade-pic-du-glacier-blanc.html

R. Desson, R.Roux, T & D Stumpert 2005.

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Ailefroide 2017 Ideas , Summer Ecrins Wishlist

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User Date Notes
AndrewB121 7 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Very good although a bit loose in places. With 60m half ropes and 13 quickdraws you can easily link all of the vertical pitches into blocks of two. The route is fairly well bolted, although a small set of cams (DMM 00-2) may be useful if you not confident at the grade as the easier sections are quite spaced. A good route description can be found here, gives it a max grade of 5c: https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/glacier-blanc-pic-du-le-communard/#main
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very good although a bit loose in places. With 60m half ropes and 13 quickdraws you can easily link all of the vertical pitches into blocks of two. The route is fairly well bolted, although a small set of cams (DMM 00-2) may be useful if you not confident at the grade as the easier sections are quite spaced. A good route description can be found here, gives it a max grade of 5c: https://www.gulliver.it/itinerari/glacier-blanc-pic-du-le-communard/#main

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Route of Interest
Pilier Candau

Grade: D ***
(Le Rateau)

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