Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
An interesting route making the most of this wall. Climb straight up the wall to a thread (as for Final Witness). Trend out right and climb the steepening wall above. Climb awkwardly up the groove to reach the roof, then scuttle left around this to easier rock. Exiting rightwards is harder (5a), and perhaps more in keeping with the lower pitch. © Rockfax
FA. Roy Leeming (4 pts) 1965 FFA Bob Dearman 1976.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cake | 4 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'm pretty sure I didn't do the recommended 5a top in the Rockfax. I went right for a couple of metres, perhaps, after the 4c exit left and then went up an obvious groove to the left of a big thread block. Above was 6 metres of loose rock and turf which was awful. Perhaps better if you go further right, but I wouldn't chance it. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: I'm pretty sure I didn't do the recommended 5a top in the Rockfax. I went right for a couple of metres, perhaps, after the 4c exit left and then went up an obvious groove to the left of a big thread block. Above was 6 metres of loose rock and turf which was awful. Perhaps better if you go further right, but I wouldn't chance it. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Intestate
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)