Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Some good moves. Climb the short wall to a good ledge (possible belay). Climb through the bulge then trend right and back left, following the line of large and well-travelled holds. Either climb direct to ledges and a yew tree, or follow Ten Craters... with a 5a move. © Rockfax
FA. Nat Allen, D Carnell (1 point) l 1965.
Ticklists
Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Dr Matt | 30 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Please see further discussion from myself in the Feedback section of the next route, Simeon Direct. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Please see further discussion from myself in the Feedback section of the next route, Simeon Direct. |
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| Paul Sagar | 21 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: A hold has broken off at the bulge where this route goes direct up in the Rockfax guide - now much, much harder than VS. There is an old peg and a good cam slot level with it but if you fall here you WILL hit the ledge below. Trust me, I did. Luckily enough rope stretch and momentum meant I avoided injury. Higher up, the route now climbs through the yew tree, which is very unpleasant indeed, as said tree is presumably much bigger than when the route was first climbed. Avoid. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A hold has broken off at the bulge where this route goes direct up in the Rockfax guide - now much, much harder than VS. There is an old peg and a good cam slot level with it but if you fall here you WILL hit the ledge below. Trust me, I did. Luckily enough rope stretch and momentum meant I avoided injury. Higher up, the route now climbs through the yew tree, which is very unpleasant indeed, as said tree is presumably much bigger than when the route was first climbed. Avoid. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Snakes Alive
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dovedale)