18m.

Rockfax Description
As reachy as the name suggests. Climb the sinuous crack in the left-hand edge of the slab. A side-runner for the start is normal, otherwise the route is E4. Continue up to and over the capping overhang. Originally started up Swan Song. © Rockfax

FA. Phil Wilson, Gary Gibson, Mark Walton 1979 FA. (Direct Start) Gary Gibson, Derek Beetlestone, S Frazer 1981

Feedback

UserDateNotes
ksjs 20 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: the reach can be avoided by getting feet up. good route if shortlived; top section sadly takes away
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the reach can be avoided by getting feet up. good route if shortlived; top section sadly takes away
goi.ashmore 10 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I don't think its reachy, but they are long rock ups
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I don't think its reachy, but they are long rock ups
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Dale Comley 26 May, 2018 Lead O/S Followed the old Peak lime guide and started left of the tree and went direct through the small bulge. 4 Micro wires in a row at the start
Followed the old Peak lime guide and started left of the tree and went direct through the small bulge. 4 Micro wires in a row at the start
Charlie Low 26 May, 2018 2nd
Hidden 15 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Rocky 15 Aug, 2017 2nd dog Well 'ard!!!
with remus
Well 'ard!!!
with remus
Hannes B 24 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Bez
with Bez
ned_85 11 May, 2017 2nd
with Tom Kingston, Richard Crosby
with Tom Kingston, Richard Crosby
Gambit 11 May, 2017 Lead Side-runner in the horizontal slot on Swan Song and came in from this route, as per the BMC guidebook, felt soft this way
with Tom, Neil's mate, Neil WC
Side-runner in the horizontal slot on Swan Song and came in from this route, as per the BMC guidebook, felt soft this way
with Tom, Neil's mate, Neil WC
Mike W 5 May, 2017 Lead β
Chriswallis2 5 May, 2017 Lead β Got lowered off after seconding the route next door so had a peek at the gear. Felt e2ish on lead knowing what was ahead.
with Mike W
Got lowered off after seconding the route next door so had a peek at the gear. Felt e2ish on lead knowing what was ahead.
with Mike W
manwithacam 29 Apr, 2017 Lead dnf Failed miserably. Placed side runner, took ages to commit to first move, commitment based on belief I could get microcam in lower crack. It didn't fit. Got gradually more gripped. Unable to get in any decent micronuts. Stupid Peanuts, I've never been very happy with them, I'm going to buy a new set of micros. Moved up in desperation to find better gear. Didn't find it. Getting more and more gripped and boxed. Crack looked better above. Committed to move to get there, got there, wasn't as good as I hoped, and I came off. Both crap micronut placements pinged easily and I fell about 6metres onto the siderunner. Bashed arse on grassy ledge. Sore arse, sore heel, but nothing serious. What an experience. Good to find my limit. Again. I guess. Good fun in a crazy way, just glad I came off lightly.
with Mark Grist
Failed miserably. Placed side runner, took ages to commit to first move, commitment based on belief I could get microcam in lower crack. It didn't fit. Got gradually more gripped. Unable to get in any decent micronuts. Stupid Peanuts, I've never been very happy with them, I'm going to buy a new set of micros. Moved up in desperation to find better gear. Didn't find it. Getting more and more gripped and boxed. Crack looked better above. Committed to move to get there, got there, wasn't as good as I hoped, and I came off. Both crap micronut placements pinged easily and I fell about 6metres onto the siderunner. Bashed arse on grassy ledge. Sore arse, sore heel, but nothing serious. What an experience. Good to find my limit. Again. I guess. Good fun in a crazy way, just glad I came off lightly.
with Mark Grist
Hidden 28 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Dohnny_Jawes 28 May, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 7 May, 2016 2nd O/S
deacondeacon 7 May, 2016 Lead O/S Direct start. Go-ee!
Direct start. Go-ee!
Alex@home 17 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Good buts gets pretty scrappy after the crux
with leon
Good buts gets pretty scrappy after the crux
with leon
leon 17 Jul, 2015 2nd
markalmack 11 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with ctodd
with ctodd
Hidden 11 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
Mike_Hayes 10 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Andy Peak 1 21 Apr, 2015 Lead β Very very good, hard move To good rest repeat! Had to do a bit of gardening to find a crucial foot hold on upper crux
with phill ukc
Very very good, hard move To good rest repeat! Had to do a bit of gardening to find a crucial foot hold on upper crux
with phill ukc
Simon Davis ?Jul, 2013 2nd
with Tim P
with Tim P
JulesV 4 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S No side runner
with Shauna Cunningham
No side runner
with Shauna Cunningham
Hidden 4 Sep, 2010 2nd O/S
jowgli 31 May, 2010 Lead O/S
davefount 31 May, 2010 2nd dog PULLED ON GEAR!
PULLED ON GEAR!
Andrew Barker 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S No side runners at the start. I'm 5'8 and didn't find the route reachy, just technical. Really good moves, exciting even after you start getting gear in.
with Tom Lyons, catblack
No side runners at the start. I'm 5'8 and didn't find the route reachy, just technical. Really good moves, exciting even after you start getting gear in.
with Tom Lyons, catblack
Jim Walton 21 May, 2010 2nd
Hidden 21 May, 2010 Lead dnf
Hidden ?May, 2010 Lead O/S
robin heath ??, 2010 2nd O/S
with Mike Thomas
with Mike Thomas
miastacey 27 Jun, 2009 2nd Very reachy; but OK if you have small fingers as you can use the crack to reach hold.
with Bob Smith
Very reachy; but OK if you have small fingers as you can use the crack to reach hold.
with Bob Smith
ksjs 19 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S very good - small wires useful (read essential). gear improves with height
with sarah
very good - small wires useful (read essential). gear improves with height
with sarah
ArnaudG ?Jul, 2006 2nd O/S
goi.ashmore 10 Jun, 2006 Lead RP
with Arnaud Garcon
with Arnaud Garcon
Boy ??, 2006 -
Neil McA 26 Jun, 2005 2nd rpt
with Andrew James
with Andrew James
Hidden 5 Sep, 2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead O/S
Andy Edgar ??, 2000 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Hidden 11 Jul, 1999 Lead
Hidden 13 Jul, 1997 Lead
Hidden 23 Aug, 1995 TR
steveb2006 25 Jul, 1995 Lead Abb for gear
with Rob Gambles
Abb for gear
with Rob Gambles
Hidden 20 Jul, 1995 TR
Hidden ?Jul, 1995 Lead O/S
AlanLittle ?Jun, 1995 TR
robtrooper ??, 1995 Lead O/S
Roget 14 Aug, 1994 2nd O/S
with colin
with colin
Stoney Boy 31 May, 1993 Lead O/S
with Colin Hughes
with Colin Hughes
Hidden 9 May, 1993 Lead
crossleysm ??, 1993 Lead
uphillnow 18 Aug, 1991 -
Hidden 6 May, 1991 Lead
Hidden 16 Jun, 1990 Lead
Hidden 5 May, 1990 Lead
Eduardo Martinez 31 Aug, 1989 Lead O/S
steveb2006 4 Jul, 1989 Lead dog Had previously done the indirect start (Swan Song) - fall off the hard moves.
with Simon Mee
Had previously done the indirect start (Swan Song) - fall off the hard moves.
with Simon Mee
ajtay ??, 1989 -
Hidden 3 May, 1987 Lead
steveb2006 18 Apr, 1987 Lead
with Mervyn Dudley
with Mervyn Dudley
Hidden 12 Apr, 1987 Lead
Hidden ??, 1987 Lead
Hidden 5 Oct, 1986 Lead
keefe 10 Aug, 1986 -
with Nora McElroy
with Nora McElroy
UKB Shark 30 Sep, 1985 Lead dog
with Seb Grieve
with Seb Grieve
Hidden 28 Sep, 1985 Lead
Hidden 3 Jul, 1985 Lead
charlesmfrench 23 Jun, 1985 2nd O/S
Chris Wright 18 Jun, 1985 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jun, 1985 Lead O/S
andy gittins ??, 1985 -
Tom V ??, 1985 -
Mike Owen 7 Oct, 1984 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
with Elaine Owen
Andy Stephenson 26 Aug, 1984 2nd O/S Took the modern (direct) start.
Took the modern (direct) start.
sadams 7 Jul, 1984 Lead
with Pete Herrod
with Pete Herrod
UKB Shark 13 May, 1984 2nd dog
with Bongo
with Bongo
Dave Turnbull 6 May, 1984 Lead
with Nigel Birtwell, Richard Jackson
with Nigel Birtwell, Richard Jackson
Neil McA 8 Jul, 1983 2nd O/S
with Julian Taylor
with Julian Taylor
Mark Kemball 9 Oct, 1982 Lead Direct version
Direct version
Mark Kemball 17 Aug, 1980 Lead Indirect version
with Paul Clark, John Jefferies
Indirect version
with Paul Clark, John Jefferies
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 16
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set