20m.
Rockfax Description
Step right out of Charas and leave the runners to balance up the sketchy wall. A Direct Start is a bolder E4 5c. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson, Derek Beetlestone, S.Fraser (1 bolt runner) 1981. FA (Direct Start) Bill Birch, Rick Gibbon 1990s.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| profonrock | 20 Jul, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: I liked this direct route up the face, although you really need to ab down to check/clean holds which can get filled up with dross from the tree above. The way I did it was the direct start, then lean left from the ledge to fit side-runners in Charas (quite awkward and scary); this is probably the most fun and ethical way of doing it (other than solo, of course). | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I liked this direct route up the face, although you really need to ab down to check/clean holds which can get filled up with dross from the tree above. The way I did it was the direct start, then lean left from the ledge to fit side-runners in Charas (quite awkward and scary); this is probably the most fun and ethical way of doing it (other than solo, of course). |
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Route of Interest
Millionaire Touch
Grade: E4 6b ***
(Stoney Middleton)