UKC

24m.

Rockfax Description
A pleasant eliminate weaving up the face between Welcome and The Nails to a finish up the black slab above and left of the final groove of The Nails. © Rockfax

FA. Bill Birch, Rick Gibbon 1994. FA. (the finish as described) Bruce Goodwin, Gordon Mason 1995.

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User Date Notes
Alan James - Rockfax 26 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route which is independent enough. Can’t see where the 5c is though so not sure why we have it at that and the votes seem to agree.
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βeta: Excellent route which is independent enough. Can’t see where the 5c is though so not sure why we have it at that and the votes seem to agree.
goi.ashmore 9 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Contrived, but the finish is quite pleasant.
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βeta: Contrived, but the finish is quite pleasant.
Chris Craggs 15 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The route joins The Nails about 3m lower than shown on the topo. Chris
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βeta: The route joins The Nails about 3m lower than shown on the topo. Chris
Katya 14 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Worth inclusion I'd reckon, pleasant climbing, and independant as eliminates go, except for 1 move on the Nalis where it crosses.
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βeta: Worth inclusion I'd reckon, pleasant climbing, and independant as eliminates go, except for 1 move on the Nalis where it crosses.
roger whetton 26 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I tried to 'weave my way' between Welcome and Nails but whilst it may have been pleasant it was barely independant in places and I certainly found no 5c move. Is it really worth recording in a selective guide? Cross Purposes is better and doesn't get a mention. The finish has frequently been used as an alternative finish to (or escape from!) The Nails and might be better described as such. Following it makes Nails an amenable HVS rather than a rather unbalanced E1.
βeta?
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βeta: I tried to 'weave my way' between Welcome and Nails but whilst it may have been pleasant it was barely independant in places and I certainly found no 5c move. Is it really worth recording in a selective guide? Cross Purposes is better and doesn't get a mention. The finish has frequently been used as an alternative finish to (or escape from!) The Nails and might be better described as such. Following it makes Nails an amenable HVS rather than a rather unbalanced E1.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 28
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 24
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Tippler

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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