UKC Logbook - 'El Dorado'

65m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant climb on magnificent rock. Intimidating, but not that hard, most of the gear is fixed although some might find a small rack welcome.
1) 3, 15m. Make an easy rising traverse onto a sloping ledge.
2) 6a+, 35m. From the ledge, move out right until you are below a wide crack. Sprint up this to a hanging stance above.
3) 6a+, 30m. Climb steeply leftwards, then finish up the slab above, past a few bits of fixed gear, to the diagonal grassy break. Belay a long way up left along the sloping ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa Blanca 25 by 2025 , Costa blanca 2022 , Costa Blanca 2022 , Costa Blanca 2023

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User	Date		Notes
salexc	6 Mar	Show βeta βeta: Let\'s talk about this route. I led P1 & P3. P1: 3?? Err, no. I just led my first outdoor 7a on this trip and I had to give myself a stern talking to whilst leading this pitch. At least a 5, and don\'t fall off or you\'re gonna regret it. P2: fine to second, but definitely spicy bolt spacing as I watched Rosi lead this. You don\'t need a rack for this but you might want one. P3: if you\'re climbing at or around the grade, any 6a+ pitch that starts tat, tat, rusty piton, shiny hanger with rusty bolt (always a red flag), tat is going to be Fun [Type II] when you\'re 60m over the sea and have just climbed the previous mega-pitch. This is where I wanted a rack. I had to stop and have another conversation, mainly about how I wish I had my good shoes and not my all-day trad smudgers that I rarely wear. It\'s a great climb, it really is - but a few grades in reserve is recommended, as whilst it\'s not technically harder than 6a+ it is all sorts of run out and with a wide spread of technical demands. Classic for a reason! PS: abseiling - as you ab off at the top you will see another abseil station at your 7 o\'clock. DON\'T go for this as it will mean needing to do three abs (at least we did on a doubled 80). The preferred station isn\'t visible until you get to it, as it\'s below a ledge.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Let's talk about this route. I led P1 & P3. P1: 3?? Err, no. I just led my first outdoor 7a on this trip and I had to give myself a stern talking to whilst leading this pitch. At least a 5, and don't fall off or you're gonna regret it. P2: fine to second, but definitely spicy bolt spacing as I watched Rosi lead this. You don't need a rack for this but you might want one. P3: if you're climbing at or around the grade, any 6a+ pitch that starts tat, tat, rusty piton, shiny hanger with rusty bolt (always a red flag), tat is going to be Fun [Type II] when you're 60m over the sea and have just climbed the previous mega-pitch. This is where I wanted a rack. I had to stop and have another conversation, mainly about how I wish I had my good shoes and not my all-day trad smudgers that I rarely wear. It's a great climb, it really is - but a few grades in reserve is recommended, as whilst it's not technically harder than 6a+ it is all sorts of run out and with a wide spread of technical demands. Classic for a reason! PS: abseiling - as you ab off at the top you will see another abseil station at your 7 o'clock. DON'T go for this as it will mean needing to do three abs (at least we did on a doubled 80). The preferred station isn't visible until you get to it, as it's below a ledge.
JamesAlexanderTurnbull	11 Oct, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Can be done without placing any gear. Spaced bolts most of which are the ok, some are showing their age but can be backed up with threads. Both the abs are now equipped with new bolts.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Can be done without placing any gear. Spaced bolts most of which are the ok, some are showing their age but can be backed up with threads. Both the abs are now equipped with new bolts.
aharrison24	16 Dec, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Found the condition of the bolts quite worrying. Wires strongly recommended.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Found the condition of the bolts quite worrying. Wires strongly recommended.
dinodinosaur	25 Nov, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Some tat threads are looking worse for wear and could do with replacing, I would have done it if I'd brought my spare tat with me.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Some tat threads are looking worse for wear and could do with replacing, I would have done it if I'd brought my spare tat with me.
Chad123	24 Apr, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Great route as said, first pitch is the trad one, steep but juggy. Second is pretty much a clip up and a good change in style, being slabbier and more technical. I would rope up on traverse, not super easy as said	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Great route as said, first pitch is the trad one, steep but juggy. Second is pretty much a clip up and a good change in style, being slabbier and more technical. I would rope up on traverse, not super easy as said
Kyuzo	9 Apr, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Exciting and very enjoyable route. Definitly worthwhile. It is now reasonably well bolted so probably not as scary as E2.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Exciting and very enjoyable route. Definitly worthwhile. It is now reasonably well bolted so probably not as scary as E2.
Oli	7 Apr, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Bolts seem a bit spaced when getting pumped and needing to clip, but nevertheless the route can be done with no nuts. Placed one nut on whole route, between traverse belay and first bolt.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Bolts seem a bit spaced when getting pumped and needing to clip, but nevertheless the route can be done with no nuts. Placed one nut on whole route, between traverse belay and first bolt.
derekm	19 Oct, 2004	Show βeta βeta: wonderful route, combining strenuous steep big crack climbing on pitch 1 with thin slab stuff above. Don't underestimate the approach to pitch 1: its a thin grade 4+ traverse with little protection apart from a frayed rope handrail! Recently rebolted, it would be nice if someone took a spanner with them to take out the old rusty hangers.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: wonderful route, combining strenuous steep big crack climbing on pitch 1 with thin slab stuff above. Don't underestimate the approach to pitch 1: its a thin grade 4+ traverse with little protection apart from a frayed rope handrail! Recently rebolted, it would be nice if someone took a spanner with them to take out the old rusty hangers.