UKC

65m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant climb on magnificent rock. Intimidating, but not that hard, most of the gear is fixed although some might find a small rack welcome.
1) 3, 15m. Make an easy rising traverse onto a sloping ledge.
2) 6a+, 35m. From the ledge, move out right until you are below a wide crack. Sprint up this to a hanging stance above.
3) 6a+, 30m. Climb steeply leftwards, then finish up the slab above, past a few bits of fixed gear, to the diagonal grassy break. Belay a long way up left along the sloping ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50, Costa Blanca 25 by 2025.


ClimberDateStyle
Stoney Boy 12/Jan AltLd rpt
with Nick Weicht
birks3746 09/Jan AltLd O/S

4 stars? Pumpy. A phenonenal route, pretty tough for 6a+, we just used draws.

with Craig Lukins
samkat 07/Jan AltLd O/S

i lead middle pitch

with Glen Stidever
Neverathome 04/Jan Lead
with Jennie Barrett
rachelpearce01 16/Dec/17 AltLd rpt
George_Surf 16/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Led it in one massive 60m pitch from the stance above the sea. Great climbing, mainly good holds with some good bridging but fairly steep. Some of the bolts are a bit spaced but it’s a clean sheet of rock. Big steep climbing which contrasts with a more technical slab above. Nice in the sunset. Watch out for loose stones on the top out ledge. Fully bolted, I didn’t clip any of the tat

chris2451 07/Dec/17 2nd O/S
DJayB 07/Dec/17 Lead O/S

Simply outstanding. Excellent climbing in an exciting position on an amazing looking wall all above the sea. First pitch is never 3 though, its as hard as anything on the whole of MMT. Pitch 2 is full value and the bolts are sportingly placed so if pushing yourself/or afraid of rusty looking bolts may want some slings and nuts.

swmackey 06/Dec/17 Lead
Amy121 01/Nov/17 Lead

P1 & 3

with Matt
quickdrawmcraw 01/Nov/17 AltLd
with Amy121
rinda_ree 14/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with Miles Mcconville
arose 14/Apr/17 AltLd
lukey13 11/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
with Alex :D, Emma :)
emma1987 11/Apr/17 Lead O/S
with lukey13
codenamel 04/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Amazing route, with great views. Some of the bolts looked a tad brown, so was glad to have brought some slings and a few nuts up with me.

Jay Schofield 01/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
rachelpearce01 07/Mar/17 Lead O/S
with Jack Meeks
Mark Eddy 07/Mar/17 AltLd

Brilliant route with each pitch giving thought provoking and fun climbing on excellent rock. A few rusty bolts, but most looked okay

philhilo 28/Feb/17 Lead

More E2 than 6a+, some bolts very poor and tat well past it so a few nuts and slings required if this is pushing the grade. First pitch 4+/5 and not much gear. Second a long steep jugfest, Gogarth comes to Spain. Top pitch to rival the best pocket pulling in the Peak District. Overall superb.

with bump, Helen E
Dawn_K_B 19/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climb!! Led P2 which is one of the best pitches I've ever led, totally amazing! Mostly jug pulling in an amazing setting, worth having a small rack to fill in the gaps. P3 was more slabby. Brilliant route, crag to ourselves, no greasyness either. Top dayyyyy!

Hidden 19/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
td72 17/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Led the first and last pitch. First pitch is not a 3, more like a 5 and a good VS/HVS as it's run out. Main 2 pitches are great, solid/hard in the grade and as with most sea cliffs the bolts have seen better days.

Hidden 06/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
Wendy Watthews 31/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Led the middle and best pitch, amazing climbing traditional gear filled in the gaps quite nicely.

with Beni
beni 31/Dec/16 AltLd
TomOxenham 29/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Mega classic!

mot1 29/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
with Jill
nick ferro 29/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

P2. Recommend this climb. Brilliant!!

with C R Lucy
Hidden 29/Dec/16 2nd O/S
Alison Cairns 26/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Brill route - I led p1 which is more like runout 5, p2&3 solid 6a+. Good conditions and bolts OK. Did as 3 after Parle in morning so only just made it back down before dark!

with Nikki H, Paul Scott
therat ?/Dec/16 -

Lead p1 & 3 plus the nasty exit pitch off the ledge.

Ardo 25/Nov/16 AltLd O/S

Type 2 fun. Power p1&3, me p2. Abseil in dark.

the power 25/Nov/16 AltLd
with neil
BushwackerBritz ?/Nov/16 Lead O/S
with Thom Wright
BenGraham 28/Oct/16 Lead
Tony Myers 28/Oct/16 2nd O/S
Juan Ruiz 12/Oct/16 2nd dog
with Pablo Perea
Hidden 13/Apr/16 AltLd
NickJH 11/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with Andy Dunhill
Legs 31/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

I traversed in and the Mike lead the first pitch. We didn't need any gear. Steep slightly moist rock on the first pitch which Mike worked his way up. I took the second pitch which was much more of a slab with loads of slings to clip. Great climb. Really chuffed with the lead.

Mike W 31/Mar/16 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 26/Mar/16 Lead O/S

Amazing climb, first pitch is harder than 3, and fairly poorly protected. Main pitches were amazing, very intimidating from below but the climbing was great with excellent holds and a brilliant atmosphere. Route is very well equipped, no need for trad gear, but take lots of slings for the threads. http://mp-m.uk/XgS9F

gingerbex 26/Mar/16 2nd dog

Intimidated by first pitch, not 3! Lost head game part way through pitch 2, totally pumped, struggled! 3rd pitch more enjoyable but by that time fairly exhausted! Again another time

Hidden 05/Mar/16 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/16 -
LRob 27/Jan/16 Lead
kennythescot ?/Jan/16 Lead O/S
with Hayley
Justin Shiels 16/Dec/15 Lead

Some of P2 very greasy (late morning) but a fab route. On topo in RF the belay at the end of P2 is marked too low. Worth taking a few nuts as some of the bolts are in very poor condition.

with Chris
Palmer 16/Dec/15 AltLd

p3

sopaz 16/Dec/15 AltLd

P1 and 2 - couple of rests trying to find the belay (it's higher than marked in the Rockfax guide). Mega route.

with Palmer
pearson9596 15/Dec/15 Lead O/S
with Kat G-B, Dave Brock
KittyKat 15/Dec/15 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 - another fairly scary traverse that day. P2 very sustained but awesome climbing. P3 quite tricky moves on slab. Used the last bits of daylight

with Michael Pearson, Dave Brock
onlyfoddington 15/Dec/15 2nd O/S

Top route - sustained steepness and then surprising delicate on the upper section.

with Kat, Michael
Stoney Boy 08/Dec/15 Lead O/S

Proper journey. One of best routes this year.

with Uli
louisnewman 01/Dec/15 Lead
scottyskier82 24/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Amazing last day! A pumpy steep climb which is well protected and has good holds. Very exciting.

with Ben Brierley
dicky79 23/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

P1 & p3

with Pete
mark4344 14/Apr/15 AltLd dog

1st pitch about 4+. lead pitch 2, v.pumpy and spaced bolts.rested towards top,as totally pumped.takes good trad gear. pitch 3 less strenuous. ab off complex.

with derek
richiebongo 28/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

lead first pitch - as a team of three. Brilliant!

with Al Dibben, Nick Smith
Dibdawg 28/Feb/15 AltLd
with Nick, Richard Durnford
mes32 17/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Did Parle first, amazing day!

with Caroline, Will
will_benfold 17/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Led P3

with Caroline Culwick, Mary
Hidden 17/Jan/15 AltLd O/S
Hardcore Pat 14/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Ps 1 & 3

with Dr Julie
redshapedfriday 01/Jan/15 Lead O/S
with Debs Climber
mynyddresident ?/Jan/15 AltLd

Great route , quite steep!

with KP
Hidden 28/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Rachel S 26/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
Peter Metcalfe 26/Dec/14 AltLd
eel 23/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Gwen
Hidden 23/Dec/14 AltLd O/S
admackie 12/Dec/14 Lead O/S

wow! piches 1and 3 rob belayed early on second pitch on gear in a cave, i got to do monster pitch traversing right on jugs to top of next route juggiest rock ever

with rob
the power 10/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Mega the route of the trip for me ,not hard but atmospheric Worth flying to costa blanca just to climb here

with Andy
dr_botnik 10/Dec/14 AltLd
Hidden 10/Dec/14 AltLd
cdpuk 11/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1+3. Awesome. Steep 2nd pitch. Don't be tempted to belay in the small recess. More technical third pitch. Dunked ropes in the sea when pulling down ab; oops.

with Nick Tammik
Hulda 13/May/14 Lead O/S
with Andi
vanderz 06/May/14 Lead O/S
with Adrian Ripley
Ade in Sheffield ?/May/14 2nd
Jack93 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Lead pitches 1 and 3

spidermonkey09 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S

P2 up the crack, pumpy but awesome!

SPK06 ?/Apr/14 AltLd
with tony
peppermill 25/Mar/14 2nd O/S
mrteale 14/Mar/14 Lead O/S
craig naylor 03/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
with Tony
Hanky ?/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Me and NE Brian. Atmospheric and steep sea cliff climbing. Stonker !

with Brian/Simon/Dave/Angus
Ade in Sheffield ?/Jan/14 2nd O/S
vanderz ?/Jan/14 Lead
Hidden ??/2014 AltLd O/S
Ade in Sheffield ??/2014 2nd
Hidden 28/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
Freshprintce 07/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jan/13 AltLd
jon_gill1 10/Oct/12 Lead O/S

ross did the traverse pitch to get to the start of the route.i led both of the hard pitches and ross and charlie followed.it was very greasy in the 1st half of p1 but was still an amazing route!LOVED IT!

with ross garfoot, Charles French
alan1234 ??/2012 Lead O/S

Bolts leave much to be desired; bring a medium sized trad rack

Hidden ??/2011 -
lrandall 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch.

with Christophe
Hidden ??/2010 -
JWB 04/Nov/09 AltLd O/S

Fantastic!

with Charles
Julie Carroll 22/Apr/08 TR
with Rich Mayfield, Carole Dawson
DafSWMC 13/Mar/08 AltLd O/S

Mostly bolted now. Lurgy didn't help matters. 2 great contrasting pitches.

with Hash
hash 13/Mar/08 AltLd dog
with DafSWMC
Hidden 01/Feb/08 AltLd
Shaw Brown 24/Jan/08 Lead
with David Jones
Hidden 29/Mar/05 AltLd dog
Kyuzo ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
with Bernard Lam
cem 29/Nov/01 AltLd O/S

Led p2

Dave Musgrove ?/Jan/01 AltLd

I led pitch 3

with Steve Coates, Brian Middleton
Hidden ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Mar/99 Lead O/S
Mark Riley 05/Feb/99 Lead O/S
with Stuart Greenall
uphillnow ??/1999 Lead

had 2nd it before in a big team

charlesmfrench 28/Apr/98 AltLd O/S

L,2. Absolutely brilliant!

with Mark Vandome
dan gibson ??/1998 -
uphillnow ??/1998 Lead
Hidden 31/Oct/97 AltLd
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
brianrunner 20/Feb/96 2nd

brilliant route

with steve wells
sdht ?/Apr/95 Lead O/S
Mick King 20/Jan/93 AltLd

Lead P 1 & 3

with Pete Hankinson
pete johnson 21/Oct/91 AltLd
with Mick Green
Hidden 14/Dec/90 Lead
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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 30
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set