Rockfax Description
A superb route that enables the brilliant pitch of the hard route Free Stone Henge, E7 to be reached at a more amenable grade.
1) 5c, 40m. Follow Atlantis until 7m below the ledge. From here climb horizontally right above the roof to reach an exhilarating position on the arete. Swing around this and continue along the break until the corner is reached. Breathe, then traverse right to a belay next to a cluster of rotting ironmongery on the slab.
2) 5c, 20m. Traverse right and prepare yourself for the exposure that is about to follow. Move up into the corner, then undercut your way to glory - a truly outrageous pitch for the grade.
3) 5b, 30m. Trend up and slightly right to a cave. Move through this and climb the steep crack above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1. Climb the first corner pitch of Atlantis untill 7 metres below the ledge, then follow the first obvious traverse line above the roof towards the arete. Belay just before the arete (shallow cams and small wires).
2. Climb around the arete and hand traverse across the leaning wall into the corner, step down for a move or two and then right again onto the slab. Continue traversing to a belay.
3 and 4. Traverse right across the slab and join Free Stone Henge.

Feedback

UserDateNotes
JBO 17 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Few bits of advice, mostly just echoing what's already been said in previous logs. Would recommend taking a stance in the Atlantis corner, level with the traverse line, instead of doing the first two pitches in a one-er as per Rockfax description - you wouldn't want to be doing the moves around the arete and into the corner with any rope drag. Would also recommend taking a stance just above the roof of the 'undercut' pitch, to avoid the ropes getting stuck in the exit groove - you can still make it to the top in one from here. If it's been wet all recently, it might be worth saving till the afternoon as the section under the roof doesn't get much sun until later, and it can be quite damp and greasy where you don't want it to be. Lastly, goes without saying but all members of the party should be confident at E4! On both of the hard pitches, there's a lot of traversing, some downclimbing, and lots of times when a fall would leave you dangling in space!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Few bits of advice, mostly just echoing what's already been said in previous logs. Would recommend taking a stance in the Atlantis corner, level with the traverse line, instead of doing the first two pitches in a one-er as per Rockfax description - you wouldn't want to be doing the moves around the arete and into the corner with any rope drag. Would also recommend taking a stance just above the roof of the 'undercut' pitch, to avoid the ropes getting stuck in the exit groove - you can still make it to the top in one from here. If it's been wet all recently, it might be worth saving till the afternoon as the section under the roof doesn't get much sun until later, and it can be quite damp and greasy where you don't want it to be. Lastly, goes without saying but all members of the party should be confident at E4! On both of the hard pitches, there's a lot of traversing, some downclimbing, and lots of times when a fall would leave you dangling in space!
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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Hidden 12 Jul AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Jul AltLd O/S
JBO 17 Jun AltLd O/S Amazing route, easily some of the best positions I've been in. I was pretty gripped though! Found both the main pitches pretty full on, definitely moves on both which merit 6a in my book, and the situation means that the consequences of a fall are just as serious for the second as they are for the lead. Great adventure though.
Amazing route, easily some of the best positions I've been in. I was pretty gripped though! Found both the main pitches pretty full on, definitely moves on both which merit 6a in my book, and the situation means that the consequences of a fall are just as serious for the second as they are for the lead. Great adventure though.
Jamie Skelton 6 May AltLd G/U
with Jack Morris
with Jack Morris
LucaC 27 Sep, 2018 AltLd dnf P2 crux and then reversed the traverse since the back wall had running water down it.
with Jack
P2 crux and then reversed the traverse since the back wall had running water down it.
with Jack
Steve Long 25 Sep, 2018 AltLd β Nice to lead the Free Stonehenge pitch! Continually interesting climbing in superb positions. The down climb in the big corner is exciting but protection for both with a careful leader. Long slings on all runners on the Free Stonehenge pitch help reduce the risk of getting the rope stuck. Flick one back out left above the roof and place a medium cam in the vertical slot in the groove for the other rope. The insitu belay gear has rotted, but there is a reasonable spot about 3 metres beyond.
with Chris Parkin
Nice to lead the Free Stonehenge pitch! Continually interesting climbing in superb positions. The down climb in the big corner is exciting but protection for both with a careful leader. Long slings on all runners on the Free Stonehenge pitch help reduce the risk of getting the rope stuck. Flick one back out left above the roof and place a medium cam in the vertical slot in the groove for the other rope. The insitu belay gear has rotted, but there is a reasonable spot about 3 metres beyond.
with Chris Parkin
peter.herd 14 Aug, 2018 AltLd Excellent, if pretty serious and tech. .
with Brad Reed
Excellent, if pretty serious and tech. .
with Brad Reed
ferdia 23 Apr, 2017 Lead Led the roof traverse pitch as part of Free Stonehenge, not this route, but like many others got a rope stuck - the rope most of the seconds gear was clipped to. Had to abseil back down to free them and take a belay on the lip to keep them out. So I'm just logging this here to suggest it would be a good idea to place a piece of gear in the groove to prevent the ropes going in, or to take a belay on the lip. It seems to be a pretty regular occurrence!
Led the roof traverse pitch as part of Free Stonehenge, not this route, but like many others got a rope stuck - the rope most of the seconds gear was clipped to. Had to abseil back down to free them and take a belay on the lip to keep them out. So I'm just logging this here to suggest it would be a good idea to place a piece of gear in the groove to prevent the ropes going in, or to take a belay on the lip. It seems to be a pretty regular occurrence!
WB 20 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S Good. Really good.
Good. Really good.
markalmack 20 Nov, 2016 AltLd O/S Someone needs to take a hammer and chisel to remove all the stuck rotted wires at the belay under the roof. I think there are 5 taking up all the best gear slots. The route was brill. Take a camera.
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Someone needs to take a hammer and chisel to remove all the stuck rotted wires at the belay under the roof. I think there are 5 taking up all the best gear slots. The route was brill. Take a camera.
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Adam Coles 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 13 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Wil Treasure 25 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Misha 18 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Andrew Wilson 18 Jun, 2016 AltLd rpt Misha led traverse, I got the roof! Wild and excellent.
with Misha
Misha led traverse, I got the roof! Wild and excellent.
with Misha
Andrew Wilson 8 May, 2016 AltLd dnf Did the "reach around" on P2 onto the jug rail and the exposure psyched me out! Could see some tat under the roof after the downclimb but panicked about the whipper potential. Should have stuck with it as that kind of angle on jugs is the same as my circuit board! Reversed the moves to a point where I could climb up to the the True Moments traverse (at around E3?) and traversed all the way to the belay at the base of the last pitch of Kalahari (50m). Matt finished up this.
with Matt Nuttall
Did the "reach around" on P2 onto the jug rail and the exposure psyched me out! Could see some tat under the roof after the downclimb but panicked about the whipper potential. Should have stuck with it as that kind of angle on jugs is the same as my circuit board! Reversed the moves to a point where I could climb up to the the True Moments traverse (at around E3?) and traversed all the way to the belay at the base of the last pitch of Kalahari (50m). Matt finished up this.
with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 8 May, 2016 AltLd dnf Bit off more than ready to chew for start of season... We'll be back, looks awesome from the arête at end of P2
Bit off more than ready to chew for start of season... We'll be back, looks awesome from the arête at end of P2
malx 25 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S Really fun - quite intense for the first trad route of the season
Really fun - quite intense for the first trad route of the season
Twid Turner ??, 2016 -
Hidden ??, 2016 -
Hidden 25 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 20 Aug, 2014 AltLd Amazing. Lead in same way as Tim and Rach, but belayed in the corner of Atlantis. I led P2 & 4. Led pitch 2 clean, but found it pretty spicy! Slipped off seconding P3 - woops. had very painful feet and had coiled 20m of red rope over my shoulders as it got stuck. With these routes its the adventure the counts and it was pretty funny swinging around under there. Got to be one of the best routes I've done at the Big G - very intense, just amazing.
with Wft
Amazing. Lead in same way as Tim and Rach, but belayed in the corner of Atlantis. I led P2 & 4. Led pitch 2 clean, but found it pretty spicy! Slipped off seconding P3 - woops. had very painful feet and had coiled 20m of red rope over my shoulders as it got stuck. With these routes its the adventure the counts and it was pretty funny swinging around under there. Got to be one of the best routes I've done at the Big G - very intense, just amazing.
with Wft
Hidden 20 Aug, 2014 AltLd
tim newton 8 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Amazing route, incredible positions. As plenty of other 3 star routes turn to brain mush shortly after I do them, this is one route I'll never forget. Recommend you do it in 4 pitches as described here, not 3 as in the new Rockfax. A route for an equally competent team as you get to a position where you have huge roofs above and below you and E4 pitches out on either side. The first and more serious E4 pitch traverses from the left arete across an overhanging wall on jugs, with slings on the holds as protection and then across the loose corner. I had 6 pieces in the belay on the slab, probably just placed them all to make up for the last 10 metres! The next pitch, also worth E4, is in an even more wild position as you undercut outwards, but at least it's better protected and fairly steady as long as it isn't greasy. Like Guy and Duncan one of the half ropes got stuck in the roof at the end of this pitch when Rach pulled the ropes in, so I also seconded it on one half rope with the other coiled around me and dropping down towards the sea...quite exciting as most of the gear had been clipped to the void rope
Amazing route, incredible positions. As plenty of other 3 star routes turn to brain mush shortly after I do them, this is one route I'll never forget. Recommend you do it in 4 pitches as described here, not 3 as in the new Rockfax. A route for an equally competent team as you get to a position where you have huge roofs above and below you and E4 pitches out on either side. The first and more serious E4 pitch traverses from the left arete across an overhanging wall on jugs, with slings on the holds as protection and then across the loose corner. I had 6 pieces in the belay on the slab, probably just placed them all to make up for the last 10 metres! The next pitch, also worth E4, is in an even more wild position as you undercut outwards, but at least it's better protected and fairly steady as long as it isn't greasy. Like Guy and Duncan one of the half ropes got stuck in the roof at the end of this pitch when Rach pulled the ropes in, so I also seconded it on one half rope with the other coiled around me and dropping down towards the sea...quite exciting as most of the gear had been clipped to the void rope
Rachel Slater 8 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P1 and P3 as per the UKC description not the Rockfax which recommends running 1 and 2 together. I imagine this would have been ridiculous rope drag as the arete you go around is huge and the moves after on to the slab aren't easy so drag is the last thing you want. Pitch 3 (Free Stone Henge Traverse) on the undercuts felt crazy, awesome exposure!! Might be one of the best routes I've done, a real adventure.
Lead P1 and P3 as per the UKC description not the Rockfax which recommends running 1 and 2 together. I imagine this would have been ridiculous rope drag as the arete you go around is huge and the moves after on to the slab aren't easy so drag is the last thing you want. Pitch 3 (Free Stone Henge Traverse) on the undercuts felt crazy, awesome exposure!! Might be one of the best routes I've done, a real adventure.
Hidden 25 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
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