UKC

This route used to have the reputation of the most unlikely Severe in Scotland. It had a high failure rate because of the grade and the constant water trickles down it even in dry conditions. The grade is right now and is a bit bold on the first pitch. There is a link between small holds up the slab and you can step through the water seepage (Dry conditions). It was the original hard route to the face (1950s).

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fmck 16 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This had the reputation of being one of the most unlikely Severe routes in Scotland. It had many failures in its early days (first climbed in the 50s). The grading is correct today and a tad bold on the first pitch. Even in dry conditions there are water trickles down the main slab. It looks bald from below but there is a link of holds through the trickles of water. Very small as you would expect but sufficient to reach the protection and easier safer climbing.
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βeta: This had the reputation of being one of the most unlikely Severe routes in Scotland. It had many failures in its early days (first climbed in the 50s). The grading is correct today and a tad bold on the first pitch. Even in dry conditions there are water trickles down the main slab. It looks bald from below but there is a link of holds through the trickles of water. Very small as you would expect but sufficient to reach the protection and easier safer climbing.

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High E1
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High 5b
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High 5a
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High 4c
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Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Rosa Slabs)

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